CerealKiller

wouldn't the bends negate any theoretic performance increase? I thought length is as important as air flow. That bend into the plenum doesn't really look helpful.

yeah I have thought of that, but on a long piece like the sideskirts I think the join would look strange unless it's been professionally done. I've not worked with fibreglass before so I don't really want to risk it.

thanks for that Shan.

Can anyone be so helpful as to measuring up the sideskirt length for the 2 door R33? I want to know if R33 side skirts can fit on R32s. Thanks. But if you already know that they don't fit then I'll be happy with that answer.

pics of the pods to [email protected] please

they're not xenon bulbs. xenon is a gas and you need HID's to use xenon. Those lights are wanky but if you must get them stay between 4300K and 5000K - 7000K is too blue and is useless. those vents under your seats are foot warmers for the rear.

are you sure that the springs are a correct fit? Sounds like that's the problem no the shocks. Shocks cost more than springs (especially if you've got Bilsteins) so take a look a the springs before you do anything with the shocks.

beer ay? can you further explain this electrical fault?

you won't be able to use the R32 550cc injectors as they're top feed. RB25's are side feed.

go to mercurymotorsport.com.au they've got Walbro pumps for about $200 delivered. UAS quoted me about $350 to get my pump replaced. I looked around and saved money. (Oh and I had a leaning out problem after 4,000rpm similar to yours).

ok I think I've nailed down the cause for my misfire. It's very very weird. It only happens when the car's been settled for a while (say over night or all day at work). When the temp (according to the sensor on the climate control) gets to about 20°C is misfires until it gets warmer. I know that sensor is only accurate to according to where it's placed (btw where is it?) Anyway when it hits 20.5°C it's fine. So basically it only happens when the car's NOT been running for that long. Oh and I tend to leave the car running for a few minutes in the morning to warm it up. Any ideas? I have a feeling it may be the ignitor pack (the one that sits at the end of the engine cover)

could search you know... from memory its around 1 bar. If you search you should find a thread which you can mod the stock BOV to stop boost leak. What boost are you running?

my exhaust is 3" from turbo back. Hi-flow cat, the cat back has no resonator. It's not overly loud idling but become really droney between 2K-3Krpm which is where you do majority of your driving (if it's a street car). Very annoying. The EPA test is done at about 4,500rpm from there it's not that loud - I think about the same as the engine. What exhaust do you currently run?

ooh nice. can't wait for the pictures then...

I got no resonator and it's damn loud. I'm going to get one put on when I can afford it though. I'd rather driving comfort than single digits more kw's. I doubt you'll notice a difference.

should be around 12L/100kms. But that's with clean injectors, and O2 sensors.

two.06L mentioned something about this on the dyno day.

very nice. all 3 cars? what's the other one?

not cheap...

the only thing i don't like about him is that he yells all the time. I don't think there's need for that. Although it is funny how he reacts to stuff...

a near stocker puts out 140rwkw. Everyone with a RB20 aims for 200+

check PM please.

I don't actually think you can convert the factor air box to enclose the pod easily...or can you?

suit's the Nissan NA engine codes nicely VQ35DE VH45DE SR20DE RB20DE RB25DE RB26DE etc...

ok yes that's the one I saw...