CerealKiller

account ban not IP ban. most cable and adsl use dynamic IP's so that doesn't work most times. we have enough whore threads on SAU...some forum quality would be nice...

I have a walbro but it's 225L/hr purchased from Mercury Motorsport for $170 delivered.

IBbanthewhore...

nice link.

I have a similar problem with the hicas light. except my eventually goes away. I reckon it's a problem with the power steering but i'm not too sure. I used to have a starting problem (the car would idle really low and struggle to get to 1000rpm). I changed my fuel pump and the problem seems to have disappeared. I reset my ECU on the weekend but I'm not sure if that's changed anything. (disconnect battery, press the brake down for a few seconds, reconnect the battery).

cheers mate.

sorry Nick. 929t - postage would be crazy as the MDF box isn't exactly the lightest thing to post. I can try and get some quote for freight if you want. Offer?

how do you remove the headlight unit on a R32? I'm more interested in the passenger side as I want to do something with the stock cold air duct. Thanks.

sorry Nick but it just got sold. AFR is gone now guys sorry.

sorry mate but that's a little low. Ive already got an offer of $180 for the subs. the boost gauge is 60mm and the AFR is about 40mm. gauges are in decent condition, the AFR is very good and the boost is passable (it works without a glitch). no centre cap for the steering wheel.

how do you work that out? (what's the formula?)

to my knowledge they do. I know the AFR has all the wiring. I'll need to check the boost gauge when I get home.

sounds like when i bought my car. It passed the compression test but other crap went wrong (clutch cylinder, head gasket etc...) Lucky I budgeted for it but still... you have my sympathy vote too mate.

This stuff needs to go fellas, no reasonable offer will be refused. 4. R32 stock intercooler and piping - around $50 make an offer 5. R32 horn - $10 9. R32 steering wheel. fairly good condition - around $100 all prices are pick up. Can post at buyers cost. in Sydney (Inner West).

My mate's 20V Sprinter, and DC2 Type R both have no boost...both go quite nicely...not close to being on boost but it's a different experience...no turbo lag.

He wants to be like Ken Nomura...our Skyline Drift Hero... I've never seen Ken in a 2 door Skyline.

hachi roku?

check PM.

pics of the front pipe please. also do you happen to have any spare screws for the airbox, I seem to have lost mine [email protected]

it's 60L but that includes the reserve tank which is about 8L man my fuel consumption sucks compared to you guys...maybe I'm driving too hard...or need a tune.

thanks for clearing that up mate. will a S-AFC (blue screen) be able to manage the idle lumpiness.

photos?

yeah I know it's been covered before and stuff but I'm a little confused... Sydneykid says that they're the same here. Yet when people have installed GTR cams they have better response etc... can someone explain please? I've been thinking about a cheap mod and cams seem like the most logical thing for me without having to increase the boost. I've been thinking about getting the STR cams that UAS have ($380 a set) which seem like a damn good price to me. Anyway yes please explain cam thing...

do what you're confident with to save money. 100K services are never cheap if totally done by the mechanic. Try and source the parts if you can. Nissan will charge an arm and a leg for Skyline parts. Take it to your mechanic (if you have one) to do your brakes etc...