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Everything posted by boostdef
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Long story short, I replaced the motor (rb25det in an r33) with another stock standard one. Now the new motor had a different coil setup which didnt match the existing loom, so I put the old coils on and it all seems to be plugged in as before. When cranking i get no spark in the plugs. There is only one plug which I am mistified about, and that is one coming from the power box on the drivers side of the car. It has 2 prongs in it. I cant for the life of me find the matching plug, and I cant remember if it was previously plugged in. Spark was perfect before motor change. Can anyone let me know any suggestions on where to look? Or what tests(with a multimeter) can I do to narrow it down? Thanks Heaps!! Once its runnin, im driving it off a cliff for a bit of revenge.
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Wrecking A R33 White
boostdef replied to sinner-wha13's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Power Steering Rack? $40? Give me a call on 0437 054 227 cheers -
Hi,Currently have a complete motor ready to be put back together. Parts are as follows:- Honed and re-ringed bottom end - rb25det head- coil packs, wiring harness and all electrics- alternator- power steering pump- engine mounts- air compressor- inlet manifold- turbo and manifoldLooking for $850 for the lot. I will be back in brisbane (north side) next friday, but thought I would throw it up to gather some interest until then.Cheers
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Incomplete Rb25det
boostdef replied to ArchGabriel's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
$250 for the head alone? -
Rb26 Head With Tomei 260 Cams
boostdef replied to 4dr wannaslide's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Would this head and cams fit straight on an rb25det block? And are all the manifolds fit the same? And what is the cam specs? What sort of power gain are we looking at? Cheers -
Voltage Low & Battery Flat - But Alternator And Battery Good?
boostdef replied to boostdef's topic in General Maintenance
With battery plugged in and say I turn the lights on, the Volts drop to about 10 across the terminals and on the volts gauge. If I do this with no battery connected whilst the car is running, and I turn the lights on, the Volts remain at around 13.4 no matter how many accessories I turn on. With the battery connected(tried 2 batteries, 1 is brand new), if I turn on all accessories the battery is drained pretty fiercly. With the multimeter connected you can see it going down in Volts at a rate of knots. -
Hi All, I know immediately you think this is either alternator or battery, but it is not as I have replaced both!!! Ok, start the car and the volt gauge sits just below 12, and the multimeter across the terminals shows about 12.5. Once something like headlights, thermo fan or similar goes on, this drops to about 11, and keeps dropping until the battery is flat. The funny thing is, if I disconnect the battery, the reading across the terminals goes up to 13.7 (normal). And I can turn on headlights and so on, and the alternator takes this charge. I have checked all fuses and wires, and I am STUMPED! Earths seem good ?? Car is a 1991 Ford Capri COnvertable. Any suggestions?
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Looking to spice up the old girl to make it something Spastic. Have all the usual mods fmic, exhaust and all that, but im after a Power FC, injectors, turbo setup and yeah, anything else that gives these more oomph. Is a S1. Located in Brissy! Cheers
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sad isnt it I wouldnt mind if it happened revving at 7000rpm punishing it. But to come to its demise with a harmless lady behind the wheel was dissapointing. I was experimenting before, and I poured oil into the cyl and the comp readings rose. I heard this is how you tell if its the rings. They went from 30~40 to 120~130. Does this conclude that its just the bottom end? Say I took the head off and with a metal ruler there was nothing wrong with it? Does this mean that its all good?
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Comp Reads!! From front cyl to back 90 40 40 40 40 90 give or take a couple of psi.
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So wouldnt there be oil on the spark plugs if the rings were shot? or wouldnt the pistons be slapping around? Ahh well ill replace the whole lot I suppose seeing as it looks like it cant be rebuilt. I love it how this shit happens straight after you buy a boat lol
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Hey Guys, Just wondering if anyone could give me a step by step to removing the motor from an r33?? Is there anything to look out for? Is it simply undo hoses, manifolds and bellhousing and then crane it out? Or is it easier to take the head off whilst on the car? Cheers guys.
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Wrecking R33 Series 2 Brisbane
boostdef replied to 13thracer's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
The Ecu. Is that a standalone or does it connect with the r33 ecu? And is it compatible with s1? -
Fully Built Rb25 450rwkw+
boostdef replied to charlie25T's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Can you also send me that PM with the price of the Long Motor? Cheers -
Full White And Black R33 Interior Nsw
boostdef replied to 08r3308's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Where in nsw are you? Im keen as -
Hi guys,Need an RB25det long motor. Please pm me with price and so on.Cheers
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Alright I confirmed my fears, theres no comp whatsoever. Now, how do i pin point whether it is rings or the head? Would like to think some of its salvagable. I would have thought if the head was warped, you would still get comp in a few cylinders? (Along with water in oil and vice versa) ??
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It turns over but has a slight bad note(Although i listened to it over the phone). seems to go dum dum duuuum dum dum duuuum dum dum duuumThere was no oil in the radiator, and no water in the oil.No oil or water leaks that can be seen (After fixing radiator hose of course).Cheers guys.
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Hi all,My mothers car broke down, so I did the nice thing and leant her my r33 gtst whilst hers is getting fixed. Anyways, heres the story,Driving along the M1 she says it lost power and gave her no warning. Pulled over and stopped the car and then inspected to see radiator hose broken and no water, and a cooked enginer. Oil was black and burnt to the buggery.So i was then told that some nice fellow helped and got the radiator hose fixed and and put it all back together and topped up the oil and water, but now it wont start.The oil pressure gauge does not move when cranking. Maybe this has something to do with it.I will do a comp test tomorrow when I get home but can anyone else suggest something else to look for? I know im probably looking at rings but hey, heres to hoping.Might do an RB30 bottom end now.