CRoNic...

Yep I know about the gauge. It always sits around 4 under normal driving and 2 at the lights and between 6 and 7 when cold. It once sat right near 0 at the lights, but I got it checked and the sender unit is a bit dodgy. It's about 10psi for each 1000rpm. I'm looking around at the moment for a aftermarket gauge! Electrical one, that is. I don't want boiling oil pumping into the cabin lol.

Yeah true. Also, I'm relying on the standard oil pressure unit... which is notorious for providing incorrect readings from the sender unit! But from now on, I'll drive into the driveway rather than reversing in! Edit: Jess, yeah I've done a fair amount of research on R32 GTR's and their oil issues, etc. (hence why I went for the 94 model to eliminate the early model crank issue). I'm fully aware that a full rebuild can cost between $5000 for a basic one, all the way up to $10,000 for a pretty serious rebuild and then up and up from there. But, saying that, it also depends on what's let go when you do get a 'death knock' or other weird rattle (block might have a hole in it, bearings might be shot, crank might be marked, etc). I don't think mines ever been rebuilt, but at the same time, you can't have a idea to how the car is treated in Japan... even if it's recipts say it's only done 30,000k's and garaged all it's life, those 30,000k's could have been days bouncing off the rev limiter! It's had a compression, leak down test, etc and the motor has proved to be healthy. I can only delay the rebuild... I can't prevent it. All RB26's will need a rebuild at some point. Just like the ceramic turbos... it's not a matter of if it'll let go, it's a matter of when. I'm currently putting aside money for roughly the price of a full engine rebuild in which I'll install all the required oil mods (gated sump, new oil pump, oil restrictors, etc). I've owned the GTR now for a good year and it's been pretty good to me (touch wood). I've always had it serviced every 5000 k's or 3 months, whichever comes first, but I barely drive it. Most of the time it just sits in the driveway.

That's crazy! So the oil pump is at the front of the engine (meaning closer to the radiator rather than the firewall)?

He means I32GTRI... that's GTR-32 on here (he's a member). It's on a 32 GTR.

Is there any implications to starting up a car that hasn't done anything for 2 weeks when it's on a pretty steep slope? I haven't driven/started up my GTR for about 2 weeks now, so I went outside to start it up this morning. My driveway is on a insane slope. But I always reverse the car in, so the engine is facing up towards the road (if that makes sense). Anyway, turned it over, and the oil pressure light stayed on (due to 0psi oil pressure) for a good 10 seconds and then it went flying up to 60psi. Obviously all the oil was at the very back of the sump, but would this cause any sort of harm to the engine itself? No bearing issues? The oil is full, as I just had it serviced and a oil change a few weeks back. But I can't check it when it's on a angle obviously, as it reads that I've got no oil. Just a bit worried, as you would be when you see 0 oil pressure lol. I'm not getting any weird/strange sounds coming from the engine, either. And all the compression, etc etc etc is a-ok. Usually when cold, the oil pressure will sit on 6 for 10 seconds, then slowly dip down to 2... but then if I drive to the road and get the car on the correct level, it shoots back up to 6 and will stay there until the car is nearly warm.

Yep they check the housing number on the side of the turbo. I don't know if there's any way for them to check if the turbo has been high-flowed, as there's no exterior differences? It's all internal?

Same boat as me, Ben. I wouldn't dare boost my current turbos... I'm so worried, I've still kept in the stock boost restriction lol. It's not a matter of if they'll go, it's a matter of when!

Actually... I might be up for this soon. I'm still running the ceramics! Been meaning to get them steel wheeled + possibly high-flowed. Pretty sure the seals are shot on them, too... getting the (very) occasional blue smoke under boost yet the engine/rings/everything else is healthy. Although, the turbo's themselves are really only designed to last 100,000k's until they need a rebuild.

Wow 1k EACH?! Is it because of the labour involved in removing them, etc? I've heard it's pretty hard to remove/install the turbo's on a RB26 low mount setup...

I doubt it... if you want to look at the track, fire up Google Maps. Mallala isn't really on a national or international race list... so I doubt it'd be on anything!

Folks, I've just rang Regency and spoke to an inspector regarding Window Tint and whats legal: No tint on the front windscreen (except up the very top... but don't bother if it hasn't come from factory). 75% light transmission on the driver and front passenger side windows and the rear windscreen 35% light transmission on the windows behind the driver and front passenger (those little triangle ones) Cheers

Just rang Regency, I have the results in the defect thread, so everyone can see it

Glenn, are you talking about this? Edit: Found more:

yeah I wish insurance covered track day accidents!! Then insurance would be even more awesome!

I typed in Commodore Steelies and Commodore Stockies and Commodore Skids and this is what it came up with: Look at that first picture of the Commo ripping it up... notice how the passenger is wearing a helmet, but the driver isn't? What a fail! Maybe the passenger window is open and he's wearing the helmet to protect his head when the tyres burst and rubber fly's through the window

FS: set of Steelies. Comes with 2 extra if you're going to bust out huge skids and want to keep that line going down the street. Unknown offset... but when they're ablaze, it doesn't matter.

Luke (fishy), did you spin a bearing in the GTR? I heard someone talking about that it was knocking a few weeks ago? Hope it's not the case!

Space savers can be red or yellow... you'll see if it's a space saver if the tyre is very, very skinny! Pretty sure most Skylines have space savers (or you might have a full tyre?) They don't care about the tread or anything on the space saver... it just needs the 80km/h max written on it, as my space saver looks like it's been in the car for the lifetime of it lol... Just as a precaution Vu, just whip out the tipex, or something white (even cream lol) and write 80k/h max on it. You'd hate to only get failed for that one thing!!

Rev the engine... when it comes off the revs, the injectors will be silent as they are closed... then you can work out if it's the extra loud injectors or something else. If it's a bearing, you'll hear it on start up (like running a stick along a fence or having marbles in a can) but you wont really notice it on idle... only up past 3000rpm. Otherwise, rod knock, lifters, etc...

I know Game in Marion sell the consoles and games... but expect to pay a bit I'd say. I regret selling my SNES!!

Lol yeah I know... it's weird that they've put a release date for the final build as mid-year, yet beta testing is only begining now... giving it like 5 months of testing!

Standard suspension But coilovers are on the books... only issue is, my driveway where the car gets parked is like vertical lol... so I'd scrape the entire undercarridge if I set it to anything below stock height... unless I just adjust it each time... Car is basically stock... except with twin pods, front strut brace and heavy duty clutch... oh and a pretty lame exhaust.

Lol yeah!

Nah standard ventilation system... I'm still running stock boost with the stock restrictor in, so I didn't think i required a catch can system.

Yeah it's had a compression test (wet + dry) (170psi across all 6) and a leak down test (3% variance across the cylinders) so the motor itself is in top notch.