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CRoNic...

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Everything posted by CRoNic...

  1. Windows 7 should be released mid this year!
  2. Ah awesome. Cheers!
  3. Do the braided lines for a oil cooler need to be ADR approved if anyone was to use a oil cooler on the street? Just wondering in regards to defects + Regency...
  4. Edited - put my own question in the wrong section.
  5. What a fail. Amazing he didn't get hurt!
  6. Spotted IGTR32I along morton road last night at Christies Downs. I was the tall dude walking along with the blue t shirt on lol. You still running the stock GTR bov's? I've never heard them from outside the car before... sounded like you were! They sounded pretty decent.
  7. Lol.
  8. Yeah, it was the law for years, but who knows how tough they are these days? I passed with a rim which was 2" bigger than what was on the tyre placard through Regency about a year or so ago. Yes if you have a space saver, 80km/h MUST be written on it - texta, sticker, anything.
  9. Yeah mines 1000-1100rpm at warm... 1200rpm at cold... and 7800rpm when thrashing...
  10. Haha +1 Rhys! Hooray for Andrew (Blue32) lol.
  11. Also, go to Page 1 of this thread and read the 2 PDF files in Cube's first post. These are Regency guidelines, rules, etc.
  12. Lol let me get the rules... hang on... Edit: Here!: Edit: I fail. It says that only applies to exhausts coming out the SIDE of the car! Sorry dude lol. I was reading it quickly the other night!
  13. Yep as long as the aftermarket exhaust is under 92db @ 4-4500rpm then you'll be fine. Just shove a heap of shit into it to quiet it down! Steel wool works a treat... take it easy on the way there and just rev the shit out of the car after you leave and watch it fly out but baffles, another resinator, etc will help. There's no restrictions on how large the exhaust is... as long as it exits out the back of the vehicle, doesn't protrude out the rear bar too much, and if it's angled, it MUST be angled to the right (stupid, but true!).
  14. Yeah Andrew, I was looking at getting a Jun oil pump installed, but the engine in mine, since it's a 94 model, it won't suffer from the early model crank failure due to the different sized crank? I've heard of many oil pump failures in pre 1992 GTR's? But still... I wouldn't mind installing a Jun item just for the piece of mind... but taking out the crossmember, etc is massive in labour! And as you said, it's like a snowball effect after that lol.
  15. Yep - size of the rim cannot exceed 2" from what's on your tyre placard... so, say, Skylines came out stock with 16" rims... you can have any type of 17" mag on there and get though BUT the width of the tyre must not exceed more than 10mm from that's on the tyre placard (pretty sure it's 10mm or 25mm...) Brake test is when they put your car on rollers, get to a certain speed (pretty sure it's 60k's) and either rip up the handbrake (that's what they did in my car!) or slam on the pedal brake. The car must stop within a certain amount of time. Slotted rotors are fine... but if you have massive rotors, you might not be able to put a smaller rim on to pass Regency!
  16. Yep - I use Dot 4... and that's what my mechanic throws in, too. Most automotive places will recommend Dot 4 for Skylines.
  17. Quoted from here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107850 I'm 110% I'm running one - got Boostworx to install it when I got the 100,000k service. It's well worth the money. Bottom pump is the stocker, top pump is the N1. What DOES get negative comments ALOT is the N1 OIL pump. It's notorious for failing...
  18. Damo, you could put a fighter into a shot* glass full of water and they'd be happy lol.
  19. Wow, Craig, that'd look awesome. But they're what... $700+ for the tank + cupboard?
  20. Dohmar, this is what I found: And the N1 does have the anti-cavitation plate installed. I personally run the N1 water pump and have done alot of on/off driving in heavy traffic on 38+ degree days. The temp. gauge hasn't creeped up at all... then again, that thing doesn't unless it's servely over-heating lol. I did notice that after installing the N1 pump, if it's a cold night outside, the temp gauge does down to under a quater - with the old pump, even if it was 5 degree's outside, it wouldn't budge from half way. If you haven't overhauled the water pump, even with a stock one, I'd suggest replacing it even with another stock one... unless the previous owner already did? They usually do in the 100,000k service.
  21. +1. I'm on the I (L) Boostworx bandwagon. Shaun's a champion. Here's the Boostworx Bandwagon:
  22. Aquarium, Craig? Consider: Awesome...
  23. Tangles, Clink are shocking. My Mum's partner was hit by the Mitsubishi factory closing down after he was there for 30 years. Got a pay out, etc. Centrelink refused to give him any sort of assistance until he can prove that he's used every single cent of that payout and that he has no form of income and has emptied all his savings... it's crazy.
  24. That's a f*cking crazy list of oil mods!! Would fitting a larger, gated-baffled sump with a standard oil pump fix the oil issue to a certain extent? Or will that just pump more oil into the head due to the larger sump meaning more volume of oil? I'd say a N1 water pump is just about standard these days on GTR's when they get the 100k service!
  25. no income for 8 months? That's crazy... and by the sounds of it, that head/engine work would prove to be expensive!
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