DoughBoy

Hi, I've got a pair of HKS Drag rear coilovers to suit an ECR33. They were rebuilt in Japan, and have seen about 500k's street use since then. $500 for the pair.

Do you need the center only or complete sump assembly? Standard or aftermarket? Have all 3 here.

Item:R32 GTR ATS 2 way rear diff Item Condition:Used, complete in case Price and Payment Conditions:$850 Extra Info:Near new, only slightly noisier than standard Item:GTS 2 way diff center Item Condition:Used, center and stub axles (5 bolt) only Price and Payment Conditions:$700 Extra Info:Alot tighter than the other diffs, nearly a totally locked diff. Can be put into your housing for $150 at diff shop Item:GTR ATS 1.5 way front diff + spare rebuild kit Item Condition:Used, center only Price and Payment Conditions:$1,000 Extra Info:Near new, rebuild kit has new friction discs for down the track if maintenance is needed. All items are located in Sydney. Can source diff housing or sump if needed and arrange for them to be installed. PM or post to contact me.

What ECU/wiring loom are you intending to use? There are a few drama's that Richard has missed: CAS: R34 use a different design crank angle sensor, you either need to change the camshafts or splice the new CAS wiring into the R32/33 loom EGT: R34's also run an EGT sensor, not an issue to weld or block off the hole with a bolt. It's in the rear dump pipe near the flange. Easiest solution would be to run the R32 loom, as the R33 and R34 looms have additional connectors which may not be compatible with your car i.e. ABS, left side indicator, alternator. But you will still have the issue of CAS, and the mounting tabs on the fuel rail for the lower loom (knock, oil temp/pressure, AAC) will not match up, so reuse your R32 fuel rail. Also use your R32 AFMs - is it a stock computer currently in your car? Tune will be a touch out regardless. If you have both engines out side by side it would be pretty easy to configure the R34 engine for use in the R32, and just swap out the model specific parts. Edit: Also forgot the ignition system on an R34 is direct, so you either re-use the R32 ignitor pack/loom/coils or use the entire R34 loom/cpu/etc. Edit again: Also need to change the sump/front diff assembly to R32/33 as the 34's use a 3.45:1 vs 4.11:1 in the older models.

http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/engines.php http://www.steveschmidtracing.com/engines.html http://www.rehermorrison.com/

lol race car.... hot rod!

Great time, but damn did he have to make the car look so ugly with that front bar?

I think Keir's that guy with a stock R32, apparently with some bolt ons he's doing ok.

Get the halfcut. You won't get all those parts for a sum that you consider reasonable if you base your arguments on that half cut price.

That's the point, it's classed as an OEM trans and legal engine combination so no weight penalty applies. I think it's a bit rediculous where there are a million posts promoting how much "cheaper" and "better" an RB30 combination is over a regular 25 or 26... yet when it comes to a ruling the "cheaper" and "better" alternative is dismissed as it's not in your favor.

Dude you're a goose, there are a few ways to look at that ruling. One is that the cars are meant to be "street" cars, and should be running stock gearboxes. Another is by restricting the transmissions allowed will encourage cheaper parts. The reality is that the only OEM parts used by the majority of the qualifying field is the outside case. So a $10,000 PPG box is "worse" than a $4,000 Powerglide? From a breakage point of view too the Powerglide will be cheaper to run and maintain than a dog box. How is that a realistic rule?

I think because it's a street orientated class, hence full trim, exhaust etc.

I'm not sure if the current classes need altering or if another class needs to be implemented. Although it could be argued that the ET1 and ET2 classes can and will cater for any cars outside the current rules, maybe something like a quick 16 heads up class could also be introduced? Are people satisfied with DYO? Due to the lack of consistency with any late model turbo cars is it really necessary? At the end of the day with the current ruels there's a field cutoff, so the slower cars are not going to be in the field. So then you are left with the quickest cars duking it out... but to a DYO rule. Personally I'd like to see a heads up class catering for street registered running radial tyres and realistic weight limits. Given the current crop of Skylines racing there are already 8 cars running within a second of each other, which would make for some pretty competitive racing. Adding other late model cars then there's easily a 16 car field, if you stretch it a bit there's over 32 cars that could make the field. Just think, a 32 car field of late model street cars running heads up between 9.5 to 11.x seconds - with the lack of consistency and breakages it really could be anyone's race. Add a decent prize money pool + I'm sure alot of people would be interested in running this class. In 6 months I wouldn't be surprised to see 16 cars all in the 9.5 to 10.0 range, hell even on SAU there'd be at least 8.

Hey Sean didn't see this thread before, but congratulations on getting it to the track! Definately alot more in store for it, especially when you cut better 60 footers in an RWD

What's with the silly names on these late model events? Why not just call them "Internet Warriors unleash their E-Peen" or something? I think the whole problems with rules came from them cutting + pasting an NHRA class, without cause for local consideration. Gotta remember that there are 30+ classes catering to late model cars in teh states through the various bodies, picking the most conservative + expecting it to work for all people in Aust is a bit daft. What's wrong with the old Drag Combat rules? As long as the car was street registered and on radials it was all good. And one of the slowest cars won the even, even though it was a heads up class. There's no such thing as consistency with late model cars

I think Jim's referring to the oxygen content in the fuel not the fuel being more dense/requiring more airflow.

Did someone say they wanted a GK?

It actually did chirp second at WSID, I heard a rumor that there's 200m of black marks showing how well it chirps seconds on a private industrial block somewhere

There are already a few places offering this service on RB26 heads, but you are going to find that there is substantial core shift on the castings. Rough CNC and hand finishing/flowing is probably the only real way to do it if you insist on using CNC machinery.

Hahah I'll tell Mitch RB30's are cheaper

Yeah was a bit warm, I burnt my hand on the fuel reg... which is mounted up near the brake booster. The first 3 runs were between 32-38 degrees. Not sure about the last one but was still sweating like a pig.. even though was dressed for the beach!

Good work Brett, those 18 months from engine out to re-appearing at the track were pretty damn hard. As a few people have mentioned, you did well doing such a thorough upgrade in such a short amount of time. Especially to pull times on your first outing without any changes, without any hiccups or dramas. A couple of credits: Steve @ Steve's Autobarn: Attention to detail and being a perfectionist really shines through (someone say anal?). Everything is done once and done properly, there's nothing that needs to be redone or modified. He took the project on like it was his own and did himself proud with the little details. Adam @ JEM: I poo-poo'd the Haltech but after seeing how flawlessly the car starts, drives and delivers the power I'm inclined to think it's an awesome combination. I can see why you had the confidence to let Adam tune (let alone touch) your car, and seeing how effortlessly he got the tune spot on for pump fuel... well I can only wait for the further stages with C16 and NOS! Adam's pretty cool too, open to suggestions and really listens to what you want him to do with your car. Also big props to yourself. It was your combination, you did all the hard work getting it all together, talking to the right people and getting amongst it. It wasn't a case of dropping the car off at a couple of workshops and picking it up later - throughout the build where you were keen to get your hands dirty and help out - all the long nights alone with Steve with nothing but an oil burner and a bearskin rug to keep you warm... well something like that. Oh and last the White Cockatoo, if that place didn't exist you'd probably weight 20kgs less and would have been that much closer to a 9 off the trailer! Hahaha

Hahah congratulations on your 10.5 pass Buh-Five-ster. And good work too Blitz, 12.0's on 19 inch rims. Bling bling!

Congratulations Brett, I know it's been a pretty long road to finally get on the track but at least now you're getting results. And I'll still stand by the opinion it will do an easy 9 second pass on pump fuel with 20psi boost.

Going to be a cool night, warm track so decent traction maybe