DoughBoy

There were some pics of it floating around, the rear end had been cut out of it for a 3/4 chassis + fourlink. But that was a couple of years ago, there's been no mention of the car or Mick Stanic for quite some time.

I have a few in stock, Brett got the delux model the others are a mustardy yellow color. How many did you need? Shipping might be a killer though

Kinda odd, unless you are trying to fit into a capacity restriced class (under 2 liter?) or get a certain weigh break (afaik ANDRA Sport Compact are cylinder dependant weights). Either an RB30 or RB20 is going to cost the same amount of money, you're going to have more money in the induction than bottom end anyway so what's $200 for a nicely used VL taxi motor? RB20 crank in an RB30 block will net 2.3 liters? As well as requiring custom rods + pischtons. Probably going to find with an RB20 head the ports are way way way too small and the valves as well due to the RB20 having a smaller bore. A standard RB26 head will flow more. Add in the hydraulic lifters on the RB20 head, and the weaker springs in the NA and you've got a great challenge getting this thing to make any sort of power. The solid lifter conversion is more than a set of double valve springs for an RB26, no doubt you'll want to run the doubles if you are pulling 10K rpm. But hey, at least you don't have VVT to worry about with it Edit: and the manifold? Long tuned runners for low down torque?

Last time I priced a Hollinger it was $23k with seq shifter. But I mean, really - that's a whole new car for that price!

Just the lines and fittings cost me over that amount, new from a wholesaler in the US. Nevermind the pump, can, crank drive, belts and gears.

You can pick faults in any of the gearboxes, and every single option for a GT-R has a myriad of failure stories. I think it all comes down to budget, all of them seem to occupy a price range seperate to the others.. Cheapest to dearest of bolt in solutions: 1/OS Gearset 2/ Pfitzner gearset 3/ Trust H pattern 4/ Pfitzner H pattern 5/ HKS H pattern 6/ Trust sequential 7/ OS sequential 8/ Hollinger seq and H pattern Somewhere in there is the HKS sequential and air shifted boxes, but due to the nature of them (have to be sent back to Japan to be fixed by HKS) I don't think they are really an option. Same with their H pattern box. All of the other boxes can get parts purchased for repairs or updates.

I wouldn't believe any of the stated figures, of course they are going to flow a million liters an hour and add 400hp to any engine

Trust and Jun use a modified Nissan oilpump casting, where the HKS/Nismo have the same aftermarket casting. I think they are the same pump, or are made by the same foundry? The Tomei one features the largest oilpump gears in the universe, again in a custom case. All of them use their own oilpump gears, with wider, larger teef. Also features the pressure relief outside the case, so you can adjust the pressure externally without taking the car to pieces. Although there are other aftermarket devices you can adapt to do that without paying through the nose for a Tomei pump. Although you pay for the difference, I think GTR-700 has shown the Jun pump capable of decent longevity and flow, so I'm not sure it's necessary to go further.

Trust one is virtually the same as the Jun one, ones that are a bit better are the Tomei, HKS and Nismo.

Hey for drags, there are more winning cars running Hilborn, Enderle (etc p&d) and Microtech than any other form of injection. Don't need any of these fancy features for WOT!

Location would be good.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=76810

Interested, what day would be ideal?

Yes but you have a Skyline, and are something of a celebrity. And you know alot of people on the boards, I think if anyone started harsh comments regarding you they would be crucified.

Kinda like primary school, if a guy liked a girl he'd throw rocks at her :gaga:

You have got to understand that between the three models of GT-Four, GT-R and GT-T they are very different cars. The front rails are different and need to be altered in the RWD, same with the floorpan (especially under the driver for the transfer case). The wiring is completely different, which then impacts other devices like ABS. Then to top it all off you want to use an R33 front cut. If you want to do the conversion properly (aka everything working 100% and looking like a factory job) you really need to start with an R34 front cut. For the price of an BNR34 front cut + the initial cost of a registered R34, then other bits like interior, rear end, brakes etc you're easily looking at the same price as a GT-R outright. Add on labor and workshop charges and it's just not worth it. If money isn't a problem as you suggest then why don't you buy a GT-R from the beginning?

.. and a side effect of unshrouding the valves?

Feels like the car is on ice when using combination tyres, kinda fun to flick the steering wheel and the ass wobbles like the suspension is made from jelly. Having said that I backed off half track at Bu5ter's drag day last year. Didn't feel too confident (ok ok I am a pusseh).

How come the turbine maps show the GT30R as having a 72% peak efficiency, and the GT35R "only" 70%? How can a larger mass then accelerate faster - talking about the inertia of the wheels? I don't understand how a larger turbo will spool faster, well two turbos from the same lineup from the same manufacturer using alot of common components. Hey I just noticed something - that smaller turbo in the pics is not a genuine GT30R Garrett - nothing from the GT lineup has 7 blade compressors...

Lemme finish burning your Brittany Spears CD 1st, then we can meet up. Can I get that Justin Timberlake CD off you too? :grouphug:

Do you still wear your jeans backwards too Nick?

Yeah the GT35R / GT3540 has a large turbine, based on previous setups posted on the forums (Bu5ter, B-Man) that hit 330rwkw with smaller turbos I don't see why 350rwkw isn't going to be a walk in the park. Especially since both those motors were mere RB25s, with smaller cams (both lift and duration) and limited to <20psi. Some dude from the UK forums posted up his results with one, IIRC his was a track car and made impressive powah.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT

Carbon thing sold, just the timing cover left.

Bought these a couple of years ago, never used. The carbon thing fits around the hood latch, between the grill and radiator. Carbon fibre top layer, fibreglass underneath. $100 Greddy clear timing cover, replacement on RB26's - $150