DoughBoy

Only have a complete motor left, sorry no mo' blocks

$900 for a set of 6? You can get the correct ones from Nengun or Greenline for that amount.

You are the camshaft master! Or is it Captain Detonation?

A case of the pops is it?

Good stuff, go the low mounts!

Interested in shipping to Sydney?

Do you know the compressor specs? What size it the exhaust inlet flange?

How did you revert to 2WD mode? Disconnected fuse? Pulled the front tailshaft? Split controller?

Give the old man some privacy, as he's posted before he enjoys being anonymous on this forum. Does it matter?

Hahahahahah. The secret is out, time for a mutiny!

We is me, mah mohm and mah dahdda. Seriously, SK's been around the pits for ages with local race teams, talk to anyone who has been in competitive club racing for any period of time and they'll know him, or know of him. I was talking to an engine building friend who specialises in drag motors, even he knew SK well enough to say hi if he walks past. I'm not building SK up to be some god-like figure (too sarcastic for that) but he has enough race experience over a very broad area to put alot of "import tuners" to shame.

The spring(s) determines the boost range which the wastegate operates in, fine tuning is done with the small bolt in the lid of the wastegate. It's easy enough to change the range by putting in a different spring or combination of springs, since they use an inner and outer spring in the assembly. If you want a higher range of boost you're better off getting a softer, low boost spring to begin with and using an EBC to raise it above that threshold. I know a fair few people would prefer to run the proper spring to begin with, since boost pressure are less likely to fluctuate wildly if you run it with the proper springs for the boost pressure you want.

If you have a temp sensor in the intake you'd be able to see alot more about what's going on. As a dollar per hp thing, at your level it would be cheaper to get a new core ($1300) vs porting the head ($1300+). Even if you port the head you're still going to bounce off the compressor limit, although it would probably make more average power + torque... so goes back to what are you wanting out of your setup? Even changing the exhaust would make a bit more power, but that loud drone can be very very very annoying (I prefer driving the stock R33 vs the modded R33). I think there is probably more in it, but the $ to hp is not worth it.

If you have a look around at some SAU members car's you can make a pretty broad assumption: A camm'd RB25 will generally make ~330rwkw at ~18psi, this is flowing ~55lbs/min of air. The benefits of running the HKS 3040 (82mm) comp wheel doesn't come into play as it's already maxed the capacity of the compressor without needing the raised boost ceiling of it's comp map. Ideally the HKS GT3040 is for smaller motors that need the added boost to max the compressor, or in twin form at ludicrous boost pressures (Heeelllooooo 3 bar) The "true" Garrett GT3040 turbos use a GT40 comp wheel that flows ~65lbs/min w/56trim comp wheel - this is the SB8006/SB8006A that Ray Hall has on his website. Should be good for another ~60rwkw. I don't see why the GT35R turbo wouldn't make 400rwkw in RB30 form, with a properly "built" motor. As reference material check out BMan vs Buster vs Steve vs that other dude in perth with one (sorry mind blank). Pretty much identical curves for different turbos that all max at ~55lbs/min.

Hi guys, I'm chasing down a section of wiring loom from an R33 GT-R. It starts behind the passenger side headlight, goes up under the radiator support, and around to the fuse box. I need a complete one, uncut with all the connectors still on it. Please PM or send and email to cbaloglow (@) netspace.net.au. Thanks!

Thank god I hate that "feature"!

Turbonetics T66, ball bearing + Q trim - $2,000.

Quicker shifts and closer gear ratios. Edit: An example of two people trying as hard as possible to get a decent time in the same car... Wreckedhead + Alex(?) from C&V. Same car, same track, same nearly everything.... 2 seconds difference? At the pointy level of competition ( your 6 second example) you're not going to get such differences in driver ability, car setup, gearboxes, tyres etc so it's more consistent to compare times/power.

Actually, to be pedantic, SK is right. Because you can always argue the complete opposite ends of the scale to exaggerate the other factors involved in drag racing (or any form of racing really). But you can also argue the same about engine dynos, and how they are useless for comparing engine power as there are too many variables (even though alot less than in drag racing) that can affect the printout by a massive scale. Yeah I might have backflipped on my previous posts, but this is degenerating to specific examples that have too many outrageous factors. It's fine if you want to compare serious, competitive cars but if you go throwing granny-shifting, 205 compliance tyred cars up against proper race cars you might as well talk about dyno operaters with the temp sensor jacked up their ass, or spiked wank factor readings from mass dyno comps.

That's the same turbo as listed in the above post. Damn big turbos

Checking out those CHRA numbers: 706451-0005 Comp wheel: GT40 82 mm Major 61mm Minor 56 trim Exh wheel: GT35 68 mm Major 62mm Minor 84 trim It's a GT35R CHRA ... or you could call it a 3540... or a FNBIGTURBRO!

You can't get an engine or chassis dyno that reads high enough for full bodied drags cars in the 6's - that's over 2500hp! Even the Outlaw 10.5 cars in the 7's are running over 2500hp, most of them have twin T76's or a single 103mm inducer sized turbo at that level...and some of the more budget conscious (not front runners) can go for a season before a rebuild. Still think they are 6 second grenades? At most they would use a dyno for is for bedding in a new motor and light throttle work.

You can't get an engine or chassis dyno that reads high enough for full bodied drags cars in the 6's - that's over 2500hp! Even the Outlaw 10.5 cars in the 7's are running over 2500hp, most of them have twin T76's or a single 103mm inducer sized turbo at that level.... At most they would use a dyno for is for bedding in a new motor and light throttle work.

Some drug son of rajab?

HKS Electronic Torque Controller - get it through Nengun or Greenline. An additional module is the EDA - Electronic Drag Adapter which allows constant 4WD (your choice of torque split) up to a specified speed, then it reverts to 2WD (for less drag/resistance). HKS have discontined the R33 model, but you can still get the R32 + EDA. There are a few other brands like Field but I have had no experience with them.