DoughBoy

That should be good for 550kw @ the wheels. Overshooting the target a bit?

Check that the slip joints on the black tube that go to the intake manifold haven't worked loose and are still sealing correctly. Following the instructions there is only the black line going to the intake manifold, the other 2 lines are tapped from just off the turbo and just before the throttle body - you shouldn't be running any boost line from the plenum just the sensor line (black plastic).

At 300rwkw the Q45 was only at lvl 16 on the PowerFC map, so I'd say they've got a fair bit more resolution in them.. .more like 350-400rwkw.

Edited: I was sooo very wrong!

Woa nice work! Now to put the turbos back on it.....

The TD07 is more commonly found in the TD07/ TD08 hybrid called the... T78. The number for the exhaust housings (8cm, 10cm etc) is the A in the A/R. HKS turbos run a relatively small radius, hence why their turbine housings appear smaller than the equivalent Trust or Garrett unit.

Nah, that chart is correct with the A/Rs -> http://www.hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1092 . It seems that no-one knows the dimensions of the TD06 both 20G + 25G, or T67 (ones quoted are MHI stock). Going to find my verniers and measure them.. one day!

Are you sure it was "new" when you bought it? How damaged was the box? Those marks aren't from someone just touching the 'cooler, unless it was Andre the Giant...

Camshaft overlap - when the duration is large and/or the centerlines are too close together.

I don't see a problem with Sport RWD, having said that the car I'm building up is built to use those rules to their full advantage... something that a few people might have a spaz attack about. Like anything, don't take the rules as an insult, just be more creative with how you interpret them

How much for your handbag... the silver one?

See what nitrous does to your engine? Let that be a lesson son!

Nah, sounds like the source of the problem is between the seat and the steering wheel. p.s. nice groove, you do that for rotors as well?

Keir uses an off-the-shelf TD05 kit that's been upgraded to the T67's. There are a multitude of different manifolds that Trust make for the twin TD's, but only 2 that have the long runners (Keir's has a single gate with the turbos staggered on higher than the other, the other places the turbos right up the front and has 2 gates). You can order backcopies of HPI from their website www.hpi.com.au , has a pretty good feature on the car and shows alot of things that "normal" racers wouldn't want any one else knowing - hat's off to Keir though, that's one awesome car both in quality of build and performance... and it's all done in house!

My eyes hurt :cry:

HKS RB26 stainless manifold, top mount. Have been wanting to see how the Turbonetics turbos stack up vs. Jap stuff, and the T66 has such an awesome comp map. Prolly going straight up for sale though, trying to cut back on tuning costs (I can just start to sit down now after the 3040 setup) and would rather just throw the new twin kit in the new car straight off the bat. Price... have to wait till next week to see how much the container gets hit by customs.

Psst I got a Turbonetics T66 b/b here with HKS manifold to suit

Troy, you do realise that those maps are for MHI 20G's, if there is a difference between the Trust unit and the commercial MHI unit then the charts not worth much. Trust surprisingly don't publish comp maps either, so have no idea what the "real" map for your turbo looks like. We've still got that 8cm TD06 here anyway, you know what it was like on an SR20. But after seeing the results on my white car capped due to a too small exhaust housing I'd say keep the big one, the frustration of hitting the same max power at 14lbs vs 23lbs is not worth it!

Hey, if the lobe centers are ground differently on RB20 vs RB26 cams then the ignition timing is definately going to be out by a fair amount when the cams are installed "straight up", although most of you guys doing this conversion are retarding the exhaust as well.. Hrm going by Tomei's site lists both the RB20 at 120, the RB26 at 125, now add on the 4 deg retard most of you guys are throwing in and the timing is out by 9 degrees?

It's cubed meters/second. Converted to CFM: Edit: uploaded gif.

That's not lbs/min - it's how many the sphincter of the universes will get sucked into the comp. inlet. You really need to high-flow that turbo so you can fit 1 whole the sphincter of the universe in it at full noise.

No V.V.T. on the intake so you'll need to swap over to either RB26 cam gears or adjustables. Are you talking standard cams? If they are aftermarket you need to be careful of lift as they are made for solid followers, not hydraulic as the RB25s are... unless you convert them with a Tomei kit. Or RB26 valvetrain. Or make your own out of Coke cans. Or ask Alby Mangles for another way.

I dunno, there are alot of ways to go about getting that 300rwkw, some may be harder on the engine than others.

Yep, RB26 rods are a cheap upgrade in an RB25 - rod length, journal size and gudgeon pin size are all the same. Rod width is a bit beefier, expecially around the big end journal. 300rwkw is pretty easy to get on a standard bottom end, there are a ton of posts on the forums of people who have done it.

It's bolt in, but you need RB26 pistons as the compression height is smaller in the RB26 pistons to accomodate the increase in stroke. If you use an R33 crank you need to change oil pump as well to accomodate the larger gear?