DoughBoy

Very true. What I've posted is decisions I've made, based on my limited knowledge and that of people I've come into contact with. If I had spoken to SKid, Munro and others before spending 1 cent (re: setting out goals before lashing out cash) I would have saved half my money.

Ouch, I think that's more costly than a drag car cause you need to develop it further. When you want to rob a bank to fund it, let me know and I'll be in on it

a) Trust H patterns, Pfitzner gearsets are around the 10k mark. Hollinger, OS 6 seq. $18+ B) Argos/Carrillos/Crower = $2k Eagle rods are cheaper but they are poorer quality. I know people would swear by them but why skip on a project like this? c) OS rate their steel pressure plate triples at 700ps. The alum plate triple at 1200ps? Holly or OS boxes require different spline, therefore new clutch. GForce use a chev spline, say hi to a custom flywheel and Tilton clutch pack. At least $3k either way you look at it for new parts. d) Cells are sub $500. A complete BG or Aeromotive system with braid is around $4k. You can use the Bosche setups but you need to run more pumps to cope with it. e) Injectors are an easy one. $1500. f) 4 layer Trusts can be had for as low as $2k used. The cooler the flow, the more power. Don't skip on this - it's easy power which will prevent detonation too. g) How much do you want to flow? Can cost from $1k for a simple cleanup, $7k for all the bells and whistles. You'll need springs and titanium retainers at a minimum with high lift cams, $2k+ h) depends on what you want the car for. Everyone at the competitive drag level runs HKS or custom setups. Suspension mods may be in order too to improve geometry and hookup. i) Run carbons like Mario. Spend 10K to have brakes you need to drive for 10 hours to heat up. j) the biggest you can fit under the car. Have to be aware about diameter and gear ratios though. k) Already got, saved some money - go to casino and celebrate l) People have snapped the HKS ones. Not sure about custom costs, but probably be prepared to keep some handy for replacements.

In all seriousness I'm near the end of my R33 project. All up price is around 80K, and it just started with "maybe I should bolt on a bigger turbo..." I think a better way of approaching any project would be to set out your goals first. What do you want the car for? What do you expect from it? What budget is the absolute max you want to spend on it? Alot of expectations don't mix, or could be made to work but would require alot more money and time. If you don't plan for that at the beginning you are going to be wasting resources. So if this is all starting from winning a cheap set of turbos off an online auction then your project is starting behind the 8ball already. For starters you need to check out the compressor maps and work your way backwards to the motor rebuild. I could go on but I think you get the pic.

You can run those turbos on a standard motor. At the bare minimum you would need to sort out the fuel delivery system and injection computer. If you wanted to use that setup to any degree of efficiency, you need: a) a Very Expensive Gearbox (VEG) B) rods for the revs for the high powerband that operates in c) a nice clutch to go with the VEG, normally a chev or hollinger spline depending which way you go d) a massive fuel system. We're taking three pumps if you go the Bosche route, or one big Barry Grant or Aeromotive with a fuel cell. e) massive injectors f) massive intercooler g) headwork, headwork and more headwork h) suspension mods: from either a traction or a safety perspective i) brakes to slow this sucker down j) uber sticky tyres, like the $500 each Dunlop R's, Nittos, BFG Drags k) 1.5 or 2 way diffs would be a benefit l) probably going to snap a driveshaft or two by now, get some spares Now you can probably run the setup to 900-1000hp, you're going to want to unleash it a bit. Realising that you can't do squat on public roads, you take it to a track. To be kicked off because you don't have any safety gear... Edit: that doesn't take into account alot of "minor" things, like new plenum, type of injection computer, ignition system, ETC/atessa mods, roll cage, one piece seats, fuel lines, regulator, pipework, engine internals, etc. etc. etc. As soon as you go to fix one problem you'll realise that there are alot of associated things that go with it. Before you know it, you've spent over $30 grand with the end no where near in sight....

Joel's very vocal in the 3.0L conversion thread. I think he's building a Chev.

I've got a R32 HKS ETC Duncan, when are you getting back to Sydney?

Not everyone has the budget to go with CRD prices. Then again, some people might like to be able to sit down within a week of paying people to work on their cars.

Windows 3.1 for Workgroups. No one else in Sydney uses it.

How complete do you need it? I've got one in my car (series 2 r33) for sale.. In sydney too.

Sorry ylwgtr2, meant no disrespect. All I was saying was: A) 2530 - "bolt on" enhancer B) dry sump - hardcore enhancer But then looking at your other posts on machining, anodizing, etc, you can draw the conclusion: C) ylwgtr2 - car freak Which means A + B are irrelevant.

Five way shootout! Buster VS B-Man VS Steve VS whatsisname VS OBEHAVE Next round in Celebrity Deathmatch....

Just a question about these pulleys. The main crank pulley on the RBxx motors also contains the harmonic balancer for the motor. Does this kit modify the original balancer, use an aftermarket one, or totally gets rid of it and attaches directly to the crank/hub?

Mr. Wrecked Head, the belt used to connect the cam gears to the crankshaft is already a tooth gilmer-style one. If a police officer thought something was wrong with your car do you think they would leave you alone or bear closer scrutiny... like a roadside defect inspection?

Dry sumping a motor with 2530's?

All that grief and troubleshooting over an oil change

If you're up for a drive to Sydney.... Have one available.

Nice tools + box

Just from a simple F=ma equation the 1500kg car would need 1.5 times the braking force of the smaller car to decelerate at the same rate. It's alot more complicated but that's the general gist of it/

But to simply "add more boost" you have got to consider alot of things. Will the shaft speed of the turbo cope with it? Do you have enough fuel flow with regards to injectors/pump? Will your fuel computer provide the proper A/F ratio? Are you simply falling off the edge of efficiency and just pumping hot air? Can the turbo physically flow that much air? There is no possible way that increasing the boost pressure on a system operating at it's peak efficiency already will outperform a turbo setup with nitrous injection. Just the intercooling effect of nitrous alone is enough to outperform a turbo only system operating past it's peak. Consider an example. You've got a nice and shiny RB26 with 2530s. Running at 1.5/1.7 bar you're getting ~350awkw. To get over ~400awkw you'll either have to change to a larger turbo setup or install a small fogger kit. By going to a larger turbo (a T78 should be able to do it) you're going to loose alot of the response and low-down power that the 2530's are praised for. Pick a gas kit and you can increase both the response of the 2530's and the power output. Excuse me for rambling but just wanted to point out there are alot of factors to consider with regards to engine setups. Edit: Nath_gtir, you have forgotten to factor in temperature to your equations....

Merli, here's the link to the NOS kit direct port kit with the injector spacers: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Prod...SNS/NOSzle.html A few other companies have copied this design now and are producing kits as well, pity the smallest kick you can get with the NOS kit on a 6 cylinder is 75hp... Oh yeah, and Summit are selling this for ~$1100US, which works out to be around $1900 landed (with shipping, customs, tax etc.). Edit: The sulphur is such a low quantity it has no effect on the engine, but makes you quite sick if you try to get high on it.

Hi Blitz, I would rather try and sell them as complete lots before parting them out. Starting to build up a bit of a stockpile of parts I don't need (and it appears no-one else wants either).

Can do a rebuild package with new HKS rods, forged pistons, N1 oil pump, Route 6 harmonic balancer and Nismo kevlar timing belt. Also can do a package with Trust 264 cams, Trust springs, Trust adj. cam pulleys. All parts are surplus to my requirements and brand new. Edit: Can do a lowmount turbo package with Apexi AX53B60P21 turbos, HKS exhaust manifolds and dump pipes. These are excellent condition 2nd hand parts.

Hi guys, Have got an RB26 short block for sale. Came out of a 64,000km 1996 Vspec '33. The bore on cylinder number 2 is slightly scored. Sump is still attached, as is oil + water pumps. Asking $2000 neg. To contact either PM me here or email me: cbaloglow at netspace.net.au.

Heh not sure if it's good or bad - good that you eliminated one possiblility, bad that the VVT solenoid was an easy one to fix, the other options aren't so cheap 'n easy.