DoughBoy

SEVS is used to determine if the vehicle is eligible to be imported, where a RAWS has to import/comply the vehicle. Was supposed to be implemented 8th May, not many people have gained licenses (too many are waiting for someone else to cough up the cash for testing etc., then copy them!).

Heh did you want a reliable figure? Disconnect the hose to the actuator and see if you don't.

I've heard prices are now up to around $7k for compliance. With the monopoly that's going on at the moment and the large costs involved to get the license people can pretty much charge what they want...

Check out that dyno graph on the ~1000 hp viper (1st link).. All this mayhem can be yours under 5,000 RPM!!!

Solid lifters. Nuff said.

Sly33, did you get the HKS actuator with it? Or going to run a standard one?

Kinda got sidetracked - as for some dyno figures... Rick Shaw has a 2540 on his personal car (it's up for sale btw, as you would expect it's immaculate and everything has been rebuilt) and has dyno'd ~230kw at his shop. That was at 1 bar boost - his standard fuel system limited this.

Hah now that question deserves a long, opinionated answer... Depends on size of budget (is $5,000 cheap or is $30,000 cheap?), driving style, access to facilities or contacts, maintenance budget etc. etc. You could write a book on it (I'm sure someone has). Bottom line (in my humble opinion, and stated a million times in other posts).. * GT-R's cost more initially, increasing performance costs less, marginally higher upkeep and the inverse for GTS-Ts. Get a 180sx - cheap to buy, cheap to improve performance, cheap to maintain.

Heh have to wait and see what sort of rushed effort goes into/onto the car this weekend....

I'm not driving the car much on the street anymore- suspension is too harsh, exhaust too loud etc. for it to be very comfortable to drive. Just going to use it for the odd trackday, so not concerned about drivability anymore. If I was, I wouldn't remove the 2530

Oh it's a single 2530 on a ECR33 - just noticed the ('s) you had in your post.

Getting a dyno run/tune next week before trackday... but have a brand new turbo kit sitting on my desk so I don't think that the graphs will be of the 2530.

With a 2530, 1.2 bar boost and crap 255 width tyres I can hit boost in 2nd and still spin the wheels. DJ01 R's fixed that no mo' drift wannabe.

Not biased either way, but doesn't Rigoli have some drive in-drive out 3.0L combo deal? Dunno if you can upsize it for a dollah tho

I dunno, seems like alot of people want a Mac truck turbo capable of flowing 5,000 lbs of air at 1,000 rpm shaft speed. 2530 has incredible throttle response, only place it really loses out is above 150km/h - how often are you going to be doing that?

Check the cam wheel bolts on the exhaust wheel. They might be loose and cause the crank angle sensor to have erratic readings.