Mr. Untouchable

sounds good. what kind of weight have you saved with the custom loom? cheers

takes about 2 minutes to set it up to run. has z32 and vh41/q45 afm as a option, then set the injectors. if i can do it, your dog can do it. and i drove my car for 2 weeks like this as my daily. nothing over 5k but still did it with no harm done. when i scaled the injectors, they "should" of been set to 50% but i left them at around 65% to be on the safe side. you can leave latency time as is to just get it from a to b

wanted to attend today so bad but had other commitments. Brad Sheriff you legend, 55's, nuff said

old sooty will be ready to go too, be a good chance to blow the cob webs out and maybe a possum out of the drain pipe. shood be schwoit

sub 65s? more like sub 70's for you barge ass

no shit did i say they were? you big mong.

if you had 18's like a real man it would have longer legs and you wouldnt hit limiter as soon bro maths

few things, were the returns enlarged? obvioulsy you dont know what size restrictors are fitted. I have been planning a build for 3 years, and to be honest mate i have spoken to some of the country's finest builders, and fitting a hi flow pump (the nitto) with a stock sump isnt the greatest setup, especially since the cars see's drift & track work (sustained high RPM"s). the amount of oil that thing is pumping would leave you with not a whole hell of a lot at times in the sump. should of had the returns enlarged, smallest possible restrictors fitted without the hydro lifters starving (1.2ish). ASR/race pace/capel or simular 9L plus track orientated sump. and some say they are rubbish waste of time, but the lads at tas engine reco say the breather from back of the head to the block/sump is a worthwhile mod, this is something I will have done myself. if all that is setup right, the mines baffles/high octane and 26 covers shouldnt be needed, however they are a good thing to do on top of the others. the nitto pump needs to have some tension pulled out if it is out of the box too. they run too much preasure, which wouldnt be helping matters. with a big ass oil cooler and filter and 9L sump, should get 10 odd litres in it and if the returns etc are enlarged and the restrictors are the right size and the pump isnt 10000000 squillion PSI and you have the baflles in covers you should end up with bugger all in the can, or better yet none (except residue). the only bandaid fix would be to have the catch return to the sump, has been done but i wouldnt be happy. anywho, thats my unqualified, keybaord engineer 2 cents worth. cheers

thank god for that lol. name a time and place and I can meet you where ever. also, bov is sold.

design and shape, as i mentioned I've tried to replicate what is on 2 very quick local gtst's. 2ndly, i like the snow plow industrial shape lol. i havent tested yet no, i'm in the process of... other shit. fixing/flaring front guards so i can get it all painted up at the same time. along with different coilovers/sway bars etc. i dont like changing more than or or 2 things at once so i can feel what does what, but tuff shit it all needs doing at once haha cheers

if your going to be doing 100% track work, QFM do good comp compounds too.

yeah that and the hecktik gold purple paint r33, poor bugger went wizzing up the hill and the bonnet flew up, uhhh that bonnet will be munted, hope his roof n screen are okay. one of my fears about the track after a weeks worth of rain, when you have a off, rather than dry dusty grass, you have wet boggy grass, your a lot more likley to bog, dig in and up and over you go.

heres a pic of my bar with incorparated splitter. its 400r glass bar i had on my car for years, got pretty beat up so rather than bin it I thought i would have a crack at turning it into something better. I put it on the car and marked out what i had to cut off the bottom to allow the splitter to be lowest and the very front, slightly angling back up at the rear. cut off what needed to be cut, then i bolted it up to the centre, and made some L shaped brackets to bolt it from the corners, and was nice and strong then I glassed down to the alloy and added the 4 steel turn buckle braces. the splitter itself is 2mm alloy sheet, next time i'll use 1.6mm. I got the idea & diamensions from local guys with uber fast skylines (brad sheriff & pete nunn) so i cant take credit for the design I've also added a wing, with a 1440mm carbon blade, 300 mm uprights. the wing has a built in gurney flap design. i'm in the process of designing dual bladed end plates for it out of carbon & alloy. at the moment i dont know if i like it, i may end up getting a big 1700mm origin wing from japan. next project will be making 1.2 or so mm alloy belly plates from my skirts into the rails. but I've got other more important things to do at the moment, when i have spring rates and other major things dialed in, i will look at belly plates to smooth out air flow under the old bus. regarding diffuser for the ass, i did a bit of asking around and reading up, seemed that unless that the floor was dead flat after the rear wheels, it was fairly pointless. and at this stage, i'm just starting to look at events like hill climbs, time attack events etc, so just the basics will be more than enough for me and my datsun cheers

over flow sold, FFS - somebody buy my wing. I'm sick of looking at it

spotted some carnage at basky today, I feel for those who damaged their cars.

price drop, $100 for stealth wing $40 for overflow $40 for Bov setup

hey went for 65mm ID springs as thats what the seats obviously are, and 8" length, rates, getting 5kg's up to 10kg. And id like to get them in say 50lbs incraments so depending on track/condition/hillclimb etc tires i can go up or down. re spring rates, depends on the car and what ya do with it i guess. Im going off advice a local guy gave me, Mr Brad Sheriff (wizard)

ahh forgot about this thread i'm a slack ass. I ended up using HSD sleeve kits, so I have full height adjustment and also can run any 65MM ID spring. opens up a whole world of options and i will be running helper/retainer springs also.

my car has been 50/50 track & street for awhile now, QFM A1RM is the only way to roll! Aus made, great value $120ish for front and same for rear. bit dusty, little noisy but they are great, they outlast my fluid everytime. work from 0 up till 780ish. dont eat rotors too bad. can't recomend them highly enough. my local track is small (200kays tops on the back straight), but still, 350kw's and 1400 kg's plus they always hang in there EBC's make good paper weights

hi mate, you havent mentioned what you intend to use the car for, or what tracks etc. since no one else has said anything, I've just gone for 5kg for the rear on a bilstein setup and 8kg for the front or 300pound and 450pound. as far as i know, the faster guys at my local tracks run about 12kg in the front and 6-7 in the rear, but not 100% sure. 0r 700ponds front and 350-400 rear. I know gary sydneykid (Gary) who used to be on here used to recomend quite soft rates, like 4 on the rear and 5-6 on the front and let sway bars control roll. everyone has there own opinion, id say 6kg rear/8kg front on a decent brand coilover would be a safe choice. good luck, cheers

great result dude, very impressive, and inspirational for fellow gtst owners! 42's is hauling

Hi ppl, got a few thing lying about collecting dust taking up my good space. 1. R33 GTS-t stealth wing aka drift lip etc, Sniper brand, in black gel coat, great fit been on my car for 2 years plus. have fitted a couple and is by far the best fitting/looking. $ 140 2. Blitz Bov, genuine jap crap. adjustable tension etc, great quality. The flange it bolts to is welded onto a section of 3" SS pipe, and also will come with 2x 2.5" - 3" silcone adapters. $ 50 3. custom SS overflow tank, holds approx 1L. push on O-ringed billet alloy cap, fantastic quality, polished finish. comes with L brackets, never fitted. $ 50 located in snowbart, cheers

I have had a shift-i for about a year or so, handy little unit.

schweet, thats what I like to hear!!

well, its mounted on factory bracing at the front points, and its on the edge of the boot at the rear, so already very solid. however, I'm pretty sure I'm going to cross brace it with stainless wire trace and some nice neat SS turnbuckles and mount some anchor points at the front of the boot. doing a simular thing with the splitter