Mr. Untouchable

Lol.. scary thing is I'd say 90% is actually more like 99.9%!

yep thats the easiest option, best value for money, No doubt. 1, we want to stay different, plus the sound of a lumpy as hell NA 30' is kinda cool. 2, the head work is going to be bascially FREE, as we are repairing/painting some bits as a sway job for the labour on the head work. VLT bits will not be free, keep in mind the car is a total budget bus. we are going to be able to do the engine work, Nitrous included for Less than the cost of VLT gear bolted on. Trying to keep it different, more so than chase the few extra KW's as we both agree the 150 odd the VLT kit will produce is still kids power anyways.

Well it's sounding very tempting then!

yeah well funny that, we actually have some series 3 lights but when fitting them, it just didn't really impress, and we wented to keep the whole thing a bit different, and as every man and his dog convert to series 3 front we didnt really want to do it. as for mods, we have a spare rb30, so taking the head off that and getting the works done. 5 angle valve job, porting, new lifters, heavy duty valve springs, machined rocker shaft supports, new camshaft, decked slightly for added comp. thinking maybe MLS headgasket, new timing belt, waterpump. stage 4 chip, walbro 255lp/h intank pump. I'm going to fab up a 3" stainless intake pipe. Also a CAI setup and set up a Nitrous kit at the same time. hoping to have it done for powercruise.

well yes I have washed it before. Hot soapy water, blow it out with the compressor and let it dry out properly in the sun also. I do it maybe every 3-6 months. No I do NOT oil it actually I have had the pod for over 2 years and its still looking good/performing well. and something I just remembered, a mate of mine used to have a JZA80 TT supra which had a ARC induction box, for science we fitted a 3A one day and the difference was amazing. Sharper throttle response and seemed to breath better full stop. considering the ARC sells for maybe 20 times more than a 3A pod, they are definatly good value.

yeah I can understand that as I've tried to avoid my car looking like a GTR wannabe. GTST and proud of it lol

haha was the midle of winter and we worked on gravel for half of it lol. never again! was good sinking beers in the oven tho

I can get the decals/sponsors made and could get your wheels sand blasted and could paint them white also. not to mention i'm pretty handy with my tig i could even replicate that side pipe.

fark that off. seems your going for a "race car look" but your going about it wrong mate put your GTR wing back on, get a GTR replica bar on the front and ditch the rear bar for a stocker. you could go with rear over fenders and even wider front guards but you could still pull it off as it sits maybe a replica paint job like this....

77.7 please! just jap sell a brand spanking 26 crank for $1190 but If a stroker crank was available Id get one for sure.

I have a 3A pod. back to back V.s K&N, I honestly couldnt really notice. The 3A is a lot cheaper tho!

its not 100% complete it now has some bigger profile tires on it along with better wheel spacing. The windows are gonna cop some 25% tint. its got brand spanking monroe shocks and king springs. fresh pads and the calipers are now red. there has been a lot of discussion about engine mods. some of the ideas were set it up to factory VLT spec, another idea was 25 head and loom etc. If I end up with the car, I will fit a aggressive NA cam, valve springs and machined rocker shaft supports, fit a hp4 chip or something and a decent fuel pump. maybe deck the head for added compression and fit the thinest head gasket I can get. and a nitrous kit is all to easy to set up so that would be on the cards, nothing major just a wet kit set up with a 50 shot or something. next project is going to be a 32 gtst, with either 25 or 26. widebody, sorta going for the batmobile look.

This is my best mates 1987 R31 Ti skyline. Was purcahsed for 500 smackeroos from a lady that used it for most of its life as a shopping trolley. Since its the Ti model, its fully optioned, electric everything cruise control etc. it was going to be a great daily. I drove the car home and after some slighlty spirited driving it developed some nasty nasty engine noises. And oil preasure went west. so a much fresher rb30 was sourced, a VL manual g/box was sourced, along with a manual r31 tailshaft and the rest of the gear to get it running. whilst the motor was out we thought, hey may aswell paint the engine bay incase we wanna tidy it up someday. After we got it running we thought that we may aswell tidy it up straight away as it had a fair amount of body damage from 22 years of car parks etc. well it slowly got outa hand, me being a panel beater and brody being a spray painter and both being pretty fussy. in the end we removed the body moulds and shaved the boot lock and arial holes. the rear bar copped some plastic welding to remove unwanted 80"s moulds and join lines. to run the series 3 bar with series 1 lights and pintara grill we had to chop 18mm out of the sides of the front bar. Along with removing so more 80"s crap all the door moulds have locating holes so all the holes along the doors and front guards and dog legs had to be shaved. This took months and slowly went from tidy up to all out panel & paint. anyways heres a few pics

may I ask where you got spacers from to run larger rotors? and what size rotors? cheers

its going to rain. give me a call if you need me to reconstruct your car lol. send me a msg if you head out mate I need a few laps round there as well

front mount front mount front mount. to keep it simple go return flow. blitz make a nice one. justjap/cooling pro have a cheaper option.

spotted me getting a fine for doing 79 in a 70 zone. on the tasman bridge. 1 point and 50 bux. i know they must have tweked them coz i always go across there at 75-78ish. since when do you get booked for under 10km's a hour? f**k me.

got my new clutch installed today. While it was out, replaced the rear main seal (was starting to weep). feels nice. little bit nasty round town. nothing ya cant live with!

25 neo head?

dont rule out heater core!

haha do tell. I only heard from funz. Its bloody piss poor!

putting a new clutch in the car in the second week of november . Hoping to enter the hill climb at baskerville.

only 10 thousand kays. but, man oh man have I give it a flogging. a good tune certainly helps. I have a 3540r on it with the .82r

before I start, i'm am not a engine builder, and this is not straight from the horses mouth, but i know of someone who was seeking advice from racepace about a 25 build and the comment was , stock 25 rods will support up to 400rwkw's, just need to bugger off the stock bolts in favour of arp gear. but when my my tuner last tuned my car he said he stopped it at 7000 rpm, 17.6 psi (made 318rwkw) due to "rb25 rods being the weakest of rb's" as for the weekest point in the 25, I doubt you'll get a solid answer. I have personal heard a few different answers. The way I see it, Don't push it that hard unless your prepared to rebuild it (whenever that time comes) people laugh at me when i tell them i have made 350kw's on my stock 25. but i'm not bloody pulling the motor out unless its dead lol.

I'm going to use a 26 crank and 26 spec rods and pistons. a new 33 gtr crank comes in at around $1000-1100 and the bonus is its ready for a 26 spec oil pump. the 2.8 rb25 people are reffering to is a 33 in W.A. I think his name is paul cornes or something, thats a rb25, 26 crank, pauter rods and mahle pistons (i think) and runs a 88mm bore. built by XSpeed (i think) I think running a 26 crank is a great idea but boring it out so far just to gain some extra cc's seems a bit crazy. i think id rather have a bit more meat in the block. but hey i'm no engine builder! =)