Mr. Untouchable

mate i'm after a stock 33 gtst rear bar. let me know cheers

is the hicas/power steering computer avail?

i'll give you 120 for the lines. let me know cheers

i saw it look pretty nice in the flesh, despite the ghey color! it didnt do that well no, but remember its been here for only a short time (Aus & world), give it a year and a bit more rally/track time and i think it will come good.

mate give the search feature a go. there is a gazillion million pages of info on both ur questions ~Jack

haha fair call. BUT read the first post again

pm sent

after thinking in my thinking chair.. anyway my money is still on the waste gate setup. I really think the first manifold was garbage, i think the design of the last one was a lot better. (i know i have no evidence or actual proof as we cant flow test by looking at it on the net!) I really think it would be worth while trying a new Ex. housing (same size) and run the gate with a screamer and test again. even if you hate scream, if it solves ur problem, you could plumb it back further in the zaust after testing hope you sort it mate. cheers P.S if i were you i'd take up 6boost up on his offer and bolt a 38mm gate on with screamer!

holy shit I could drift a bus thru that. i highly HIGHLY doubt thats ur problem!

IMO, Coilpacks are high up on the "to bin and upgrade list" I'd say, Full exhaust, split dump, 3" into 3.5 or something with hiflow cat. FMIC Splitfire coil packs upgraded induction pipe from airfilter to turbo Bosch 040 or walbro in tank job anything over 10 psi on the stock computer is no good. R&R - rich and retard after that lot with a after market computer and a bonus is adjustable exhaust gear cam gear you can make around 200 RWKW's on 12-13 Psi on the stock turbo you could get a remap or SAFC but i'm not a fan. ( I know u said u are a student, but I 'd say save it and get a stand alone ecu!) after that lot your injectors will be about to run out of puff and same for the afm. injectors would be around 80-90% maxed then once you can afford it, injectors, bigger AFM and turbo can go in. "sky's" the limit this is my 2cents worth flame away ha

damn what a pain in the a$$ I Havent seen many cars with the same gate setup you are runnning... could be that maybe?

yeah thats just no good mate. that manifold is shithouse, not going to cut the mustard. i'd be tempted to say a stock manifold would flow better. 6Boost's offer sounds fantastic. if you have already paid for the work, thats fine, and he's offered to make you a new one at no extra cost, i'd get a chinese one off ebay or borrow one thats proven in design them get him to make one as close as possible.

Got them today mate! just fitted them, very impresssed great product great price and got them very quickly!! thanks Pablo!

sent payment last night mate. cheers

was thinking the exact same thing! NEVER BIN FRASHED

i'll take a pair for my 33!!! just let me no payment method thanks mate

you have to ask yourself, why is it chipped, what caused it? did something get sucked into it and chip it? where did it end up? what the hell has enterd the turbo? and what might have passed through it? basically, id be taking it off yourself, returning it to whoever sold it to you. If it lets go your motor might get a mouthfull of metal

ohh also i'd grab a new bit of fuel line, the rubber line that runs from the top of the pump the the metal line usually gets a bit old an tired after 10 - 15 odd years in the tank.

genuine Walbro pumps are fine. genuine bosch pumps are fine i have fitted a couple of walbro's and a 040, when they are wired right they are good. you can pick up a 040 for $190ish off ebay, couple of 2.5" hose clamps holding it in the stock cradle and cut the earth after the plug on the tank lid cover and wire/earth it to the body and you'll be set. that will be fine till the power bug returns then it will serve as a lift pump ready for a surge and 044 inline

hmm could be a few things. I'd also try a stock computer, just to see what happens. Not saying its the most likely problem but i'm sure someone has one kicking about they would let you borrow and will cost you nothing to try. also you say hiflow pump, what type? brand, specs etc? if you havent had it out i'd pull it out, check it out, check the wiring, earth it out to the body if you already havent, check the voltage its getting etc. i doubt it would be the filters, but wouldnt hurt the check out the pickup, and replace the filter. other than that, try new FPR. I'd try to borrow someones AFM too, just put it on and see what happens. Doesnt cost anything to swap things over.

i dont like the sound of this was the pipe off the motor when you drillied into it? I'd be checking the plugs and checking to see if maybe one of the tips has been damaged by some alloy debris. that would be the first thing i'd do. if some alloy has worked ints way into the cyclinder i'd look for that before you try to fire it up again. that corss over pipe has a thick sidewall so there would be a few shavings flaoting around.

yeah as above been covered a heap of times now. I take it the ambient temp and humidity etc was all roughly the same? fuel, oil plugs etc? to get any real worth while numbers i'd say stick to the same dyno and also i'd say same operator.. and same I agree with MR 33, i'd be taking notice of 220, with hi flow and pfc etc 196kw's seem way too low

well just put the FC back in, made sure the plug was in properly and it ran on all 6. brilliant! awesome thanks for the advice guys. I guess I might have to do the 30 minute idle set again??

arr sounds like that could be the issue thanks guys. Very much appreciated. will report how I go. cheers

arrhh really? mmm okay. will try that next.. will give that ago in the morning