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thanks for the input people! I have ordered a consult cable and we'll see how things go when it arrives.

I taped up my splitfire coilpacks a few days ago (where the common hairline crack problems occur) and took the car out for a drive just then. Remained problem free for the longest time for weeks (About 30-40mins). After that however, right after I fanged it to 6500 a few times, idle started to bounce as initially described. I continued driving and car became very jerky, sudden power on, complete power off when my foot remains static on the gas. This increasingly seems like a coilpack issue - what you guys reckon? Although from what I described, it doesn't make sense if it was just one knacked coilpack. Feels more like at least 3 - 4 stops working. If I take it to a garage (which I'm planning to this wkend) it's going to be difficult to fix as most times the car runs fine. Thoughts?

Rene thanks for the link, I will have a read up on it. I'm going to take it to a garage this weekend and run a diagnostic. Don't know when I'm going to get the consult cable if I order one. Will post up what I find this wkend.

does anyone know what this hose does? it has a huge crack in it at the moment and I was wondering if that's anything serious. Cheers

Hi all, Here's the issue: - Car runs completely normal (boosts well, idles well, etc) for the first 15 minutes or so of driving. - After about 15 minutes when the car becomes warm, idle becomes very rough, revs start bouncing from 100rpm to 1500 rpm. - Continue driving under these conditions results in engine pulling back timing, nearly complete loss of power and almost undrivable (although turbo still spools per am boost gauge). I've had this problem for weeks now and still unable to solve. I attempted the following to fix the issue: cleaned AFM, cleaned AAC valve, checked for vacuum leaks, but problem remains. I'm now thinking it could be a sensor issue as I've tried the above and failed to fix the problem. Since the car drives 100% when cold, and starts getting these symptoms when warm.. I was thinking a temp sensor playing up? But I don't have much knowledge in that department and need your help! Has anyone also run into this problem before or to shed me some light? Also what other possible problems may occur under the conditions described above? The only modifications done to the car are 3" cat back exhaust, pod filter, Platinum spark plugs, and spitfire coilpacks. Thanks in Adv. Forgot to add: Car in question is a 1997 r33 Gts-t, rb25det

I'm having a slightly similar problem except my car is pretty much stock, apart from cat-back. My revs start to fluctuate between 100 - 1500 rpm in idle, but only after a bit of driving (when car is warm). If I try to drive when this problem kicks in, I can feel the car pull back timing hard which means no power from the engine. I've tested for vacuum leaks and cleaned AFM but still problem exists. Going to clean AAC valve this wkend but i'll be waiting to hear what was wrong with your line once it gets out of the shop.

Update: - checked all the intake piping - poured water onto each joint and listening for drops in idle.. nothing. All hoses seems to be intact. So unlikely problem is vaccum leak. - did some research on fuel pumps - apparently there's no such thing as a fuel pump that's about to die. They either work or they dont. So fuel pump is also unlikely to be the problem. - took out the AFM and gave it a good clean with carby cleaner. After the clean car runs alot smoother, but the initial problem still exists. Will give the Aac valve a good clean next wkend and post my findings.

Yeh alex, its such a shit feeling when your car is sick, but can't figure out where the problem is. Took it for another drive, realised when I rev it hard is when the problem starts, which got me thinking fuel pump. But then again you have the same issue and your fuel system is working fine =S ..Am going to mates place and taking apart the front end to check the piping thoroughly and see how I go. I'll post up my findings later tonight haha. Also keep us posted if some miracle does happen

Cheers for the replies.. went for another drive today. Car runs normal most of the time, but the problem did occur again - this time as soon as I started the engine back from lunch after driving for about 30 mins. Seems to happen when car is warm.. No, I have the stock plumb back bov. I was also thinking could be aac valve.. although this happened suddenly last week and not gradually over a few months as you would expect from carbon buildup? I was hope this has nothing to do with the engine but cam timing is possible, in which case it will be a bitch to fix. The problem occurs only sometimes and not all the time, so if it was a constant boost leak then it would make sense for this to happen all the time? And Thomas fyi you can test vacuum leak with a air compressor - connecting it to the turbo outlet and blocking off the pipes leading to the throttle body. saw it on mightycarmods a while back. Anyone else think its a fuel rather than an air problem (or vice versa)? If it's a fuel issue then why does the boost gague going nuts? (sorry not trying to be an arsehole here, just trying to understand the issues.) Any thoughts appreciated, cheers.

Reverted the Boost Tee to a stock T pipe. Slight improvement at first but after a while same problem came back. ANY ideas, thoughts welcome..

Hey guys, Recently my 33 gts-t has developed the following problem in which I will attempt to describe. After driving slightly intense (4500rpm+) the following symptoms develop: - In idle , revs start to drop to and fluctuate between 100 - 1500rpm, causing the feel of stalling. - At the same time, the boost gauge fluctuates and shows a reading of 0 to -10psi (normally it sits at -20psi in idle). - After about 1 - 2 mins, it seems to fix itself and idles normally. Occasionally the car will stall. I have also tried driving while this is happening and discovered that the car boosts fine in 1st gear. However in 2nd and 3rd, the car would feel very sluggish and boost would rise very very slowly from 3psi or so. At times the car experiences extreme jerkiness, feels almost like boost has suddenly kicked in the out again. The mods on my car include: 3.5inch Cat-back exhaust; Turbosmart boost tee (not secured to anything, only thing holding it are the vacuum tubes.. not very smart). After searching the SAU forums, I am guessing either the (1) AFM is knackered; (2) Boost Tee is stuffed/leaking; (3) Air leak between throttle body and AFM; (4) Leak somewhere between intake and turbo. I'd really appreciate some help - What do you guys reckon is most likely causing the problem? I'd like to self diagnose/fix before taking it to a mechie.

very nice. i had a gunmetal one exactly the same. gl with sale bump.

ITEMS ARE STILL AVAILABLE. Wheels: $400 5x114 Stud pattern Fronts: 9.0" Rears: 9.5" Offset: +40 Tyres are Hankook Ventus' Front Tyres: 235/40Z/R18 Rear Tyres: 265/35Z/R18 Condition: gutter rush, Front tyres have 70% thread. Rears have camber wear. e-manage: $250 condition: brand new, comes with universal harness.

sold!

hey, am i able to get hubcentric rings for those? if its possible then I'd be happy to

I have a pair of these 25mm Bolt-on Hubcentric wheel spacers that are too big for the fronts of my 33. Just bought them brand new from Just Jap for $130, they are a quality JDM racing brand Shiang-I. Willing to sell the pair for $90 or trade them for 15mm bolt on hub centrics.

After cracking the brake caliper metal hose and replacing it with another one, I discovered that when I pump the brakes they feel soft. The first pump my foot always goes straight to the floor and it will go hard if continuously pumped. However if left for 10secs, the pedal goes to the floor again. I have rechecked the hose connections and no fluid seems to be leaking, and I have also topped up the brake fluid. I read Duncan's post on bleeding the brakes and to my understanding this must be because there is air in the system (or is it something else)? If this is the case would my next step be to bleed the brakes and put in new fluid? Cheers

bump

got a couple of phone calls abt the part and one member was nice enough to drive to my place to give me the part. I appreciate that. Thanks all.

Item: 4 x 19" Axis Shine Wheels with Brand new Kumho Tyres (Got them 2 days ago) Condition: Some small kerb rash on 2 wheels. Price: $1400

Need this part ASAP. Willing to purchase caliper as well if seller wants to bundle. Pls call 0425 213 363.

Hi, my a/c used to be cold but with a loud noise coming from the front when turned on. Now it isn't cold at all and I'm guessing the compressor's kaput. Is it difficult to swap the a/c compressor myself and does anyone know how to do this as I'd like to attempt it. Cheers.

bump price drop wheels: $400 ecu: $260

they're nice wheels, needs a bit of cleaning thou. i have the same ones with gunmetal spokes. try jdmst forums, $500 is a good price for these

both items still available