Carbon 34

Wet cells are not legal unless vented outside the car , hydrogen gas is explosive the relay boxes a few mm away can spark , boom flash fire with acid spray , overcharge a wet cell , acid bath in the boot nice!! always mount your battery with a layer of bulk rubber mat under it , vibrations kill batteries and skylines are rough riding on oz roads , clark rubber , 4 mm thick or so cost f all

Mine failed after a year with dead cell If its not a grey import it should have a warranty ??grey market no warranty at all a stuck relay can draw power easy to put a meter on it and yank the fuses watching it for current draw If you dont do a long drive weekly it will die ? buy a trickle charger designed for agm cell batteries Or any battery will be dead , on GTR your current has to travel to the front and 925 is enough with big wiring , factory not so much My agm battery with long drive weekly at speed , stereo etc off it becomes a bit sluggish if its cold out but still cranks decent , hot its is still strong for weeks even with massive draw of mutiple layers of security

Soft , roll down the window haha A place in lonsdale o sulleys beach rd just up from subway about a block same side of the road on side street a door in or so They did some cheap and fast / good work on my old skyline cant remember the name sorry

To be honest who would park a skyline or any good car on hindley or cbd on busy roads , just to be dry humped and fingered by bogans and drunks falling on it Or cabbies ripping the mirrors off it ? Guess he was lucky the car is still in one piece and alive ? Savages

Seibon usa - bend over for the cost and import taxes just jap carry a bit You can also get a dry carbon roof now for r34 Dry carbon can be had on wet by sanding it back slightly for street use , dry carbon proper is a structural part under heat with minimal epoxy Wet is slightly heavier but still strong as hell still Only prob is dry carbon doesnt like UV at all and looks shite quick if not protected Wet carbon and matte clear it ? save a lot of cash for a "look " Carbon parts are illegal in crash /crush zones in oz ? In cars that havent gone thru testing cert ganador mirrors but they arent dry carbon ? many companies make the stands all in wet Most companies use a fiberglass inner shell then overlay it in carbon not as light or strong but lots cheaper The new carbon out will blow your mind at Sema show in vegas this week , place where I buy from has insane weaves etc , just got 50 samples and maybe 10 are old weaves the rest new options and still waiting for at least 10 more !! The photo i saw of a bmw blew me away with new carbon with silver strand laced in at night the silver looked like a shooting star when lights hit it on black carbon crazy cool look but $$$$ Couldnt see the silver much in daytime They hit it with blue neon and the car was mad looking

Exactly !! Dont like big brother watching but spew when I used to park next to a large number of unregistered cars in the noarlunga area (During the regosticker days )if i did it i would be done ? Guess some people dont care ? The redlight cams are pure money makers not safety ( damn near rear ended many times by cars slowing down to 50 to be "safe " fine free and me hitting the brakes last second when it turns yellow , watching my mirrors for tyre smoke from tailgaters!) dont even get me started lol Funny enough it was alway a given in the usa if you got hit , the person had "NO" insurance and rarely a license , and no fault insurance makes it worse ( it even had 10grand fine and loss of license !!) Seems the same here ?? except sa has fault insurance

I asked about that one rego office said your car is expired close of biz the day it expires !! not sure because Ive heard both , the ex got fined even when it was paid earlier in the day via net and she had receipt # with her The cameras can scan anything in the lens view it doesnt wait for happy snaps Patrol cars can as well and interstate they scan mobile targets from 3 directions on patrol cars so your farked

Move the fuel filter back and screw the remote filter right in that spot on r34 the screw hole match perfect and keeps it out of the way , prob matches the holes ( behind the black plugs )above that as well but cusco brake stopper uses those ? The filter will be right up tight but room for your hands to unscrew it and the braided hoses screw right in easy , easy access and near same height level as factory so hoses go in easy?, the braided hose fit perfect against frame and flip around chassis by tow the hook and up to the cooler mounted in drivers side in front of water sprayer bottle above factory p/s cooler hoop , i cut mine off and use it with r34 auto trans cooler mounted under and behind the oil cooler , will move it to the other side after new body kits goes on it took some thinking about fitting but really is easy to fit , didnt follow others instructions off here , didnt look neat enough ? If your intercooler isnt aftermarket you have it even easier in front of radiator straight shot into engine bay ! I use external Mocal thermo stat but the adapter one is easier Buy some AN fittings to make it easier before ripping it apart they can be a bugger to find local

Your welcome Was that in a skyline ? or ?

Series 1 switches you can resolder if broken Series 2 you need skills, static straps heat sinks, etc or you'll over heat the part and kill it Easiest fix swap it out for a working one

Gold coast Go on a whale watching boat , amazing when they surface right near you and give you the eyeball look , plus nice photos of the highrises from the boat Go to the top of QM1 tower on a clear day , some killer views and photos up and down the coast /river seaworld if your keen ? some good food on the spit ( check gps its a block or two off the beach) Near the GC airport the bird shows are cool if your into that , link below http://www.cws.org.au/ the tree walk is cool as well mt tamborine I think it was Night life is pretty good in sydney and GC just use care around kings cross late China town in sydney for some yum lol Western sydney can get rough

Has the battery been disconnected lately? or run flat? Odds are the alarm is defaulted to lock the doors after car starts , anti carjack feature and its not a bad idea these days just watch locking your keys in the car lol and servicing it roll a window down first so you can reach in to unlock it , lots of repair shops lock the keys in with the engine on from that feature If not go to alarm installer and have them reprogram the feature to off some cars come with that feature as a factory / dealer option as well ?

Switch mine failed once already , nissan solder joints suck and rain tends to drop right down on the armrest there if the window is cracked open Series 1 and 2 cars use different switches that dont interchange , the cut off is 8/2000 and later is S2 , you can tell the series 2 switches are flat on the back white plastic area Series 1 are bulged out Series 1 uses normal size parts Series 2 uses surface mount parts much smaller and a lot harder to resolder

Like the colour combination Hate the car body and insides , those slab guards look like a hyundia with add on flares , the grill looks like a charlie brown cartoon face, and the insides look like a hyundia getz !! Good for nissan to do stuff like that Price is insane and bet it floats like a plane at 170 haha scary I bet Should buy up honda and drop it in the mugen CRZ looks better , or do a retro 1200 coupe wide body or 510 instead , or even a retro gtr body with updated driveteain and comforts inside ? Camaro charger, stang style ?? Then price it about 60-80k and watch the que up to buy them ?? should also make gtr r35 crate motor drop ins for 32,33,34 that would be cool ?

Haha thanks for the copy and paste on dangers of DC you have nfi about my skill level mate its severely dumbed down on a forum for entry level people Dangers yes any " current" ac or dc , grab a spark plug wire thats DC about 20-50,000 volts and not a nice feeling in the arm More danger on a car is unfused wires or wrench across the terminals , spark plugs while running , airbags , static electricity and fumes , or a new danger hybrid and electric cars with super high current and voltage , wearing metal watches and rings etc around cars moving parts or power The solid core comment is because I've seen it done a dozen times before Best of luck on your quest

You need to check battery voltage with engine off And then at idle If thats fine then check grounds for HiD post results but I would guess its battery / connection or alternator related

Rocket industries has alternators up to 200 amps that might suit your quest ? wont bother commenting any further , I'm australian and not one supplier i know use mm2 crap , its not even labeled that way on the jacket or catalog ffs ? (beware most mm2 wire jacket isn't heat stable beyond 70c and it gets hotter then that under a bonnet ) but you know that just for readers of this thread , the jacket becomes brittle Dc and Ac are not the same - ac kills you dead or blows you across the room if your lucky !! And never use solid core wire on a car !!! For those reading this Try rb28 diesel engine maybe ? they came in the nissan 4x4 Just buy a cabby fan that plug into cig lighter haha

Braking ? Not break dancing lol Loose rim lug nuts? Loose caliper bolts that rock the caliper back an forth on and off brakes Brake pads without a shim ? If required ? Loose pads /pins holding the pads? Suspension bushings or joints loose? something unrelated loose hitting / loose battery tray hold downs ? Water bottle or junk in the boot or under seat? If its on and off power then it would be axle , diff, propshaft or tranny related All the above can be a serious problem so check the first on the list before driving more

No kidding were in australia but you do still buy wire in awg sizes mate unless your working on a/c instead of d/c , rarely would car shops know the metric or how much current it can handle @ temp , its cheaper and a better option to use car audio wiring ? anyway you know so much but ask the question here is beyond me ? if any Rb engine had more it would be GTR 34 or the 4x4 trucks but the alternator should fit a bunch of cars /trucks besides nissan and vise versa most are bosch or mitsubishi brands so finding one off a luxury car would be a more powerful option ? Or maybe a jdm cargo van ? not trying to be a dick just open your mind into what is possible and still safe ? you can cuss me another day lol

Disconnect all sub wires and rcas Remove power wires use care the wires will have power still unless you pull the fuse first Hook up power and ground only What happens now? nothing ? Good thats what it should do Now take a small trigger wire and jump it from power on amp to trigger on connection Amp should come on ? Yes ? Is it fluctuating at all like before ? no ? Good now reconnect the radio trigger wire like before , turn on deck does it turn on ok and behave like proper ? yes good , turn off everything and hook up rcas , turn on again , all good still? Good , turn off and rewire up the sub , Retest ? Any changes ? Also check the bolt on amp ground it should be tight , paint free Didnt need amp model I know those are bad models lol sorry , high failure rates on those Your amp shouldnt come on without radio on ? Is that what its doing ? its fried if so Or wired wrong With sub speaker wires off the amp take a 1.5 v aa battery and put power to the sub speaker wires , it should move in and out if not its disconnected or fried too Warning Do not put a bigger battery then 1.5 v unless you know what your doing , a 12v battery could launch your speaker cone depending on model If you have access to a multimeter that could be used as well

Yes you can run two batteries isolated , one front one rear, isolators can be purchased cheaply Charges mains first then secondary as needed Overall takes more current and produces heat And needs long runs of large ga wire as well Or parallel strapped together as one as long as purchased together new and same models etc like two dry cells ? Or a battery and battcap in rear not isolated r34 gtr batteries go in the same spot as factory cd changers on gtt passenger side under speaker Depending on what you plan on running I can design a solution for it

My old r31 is still unopened engine at 786,000km and borescope down the sparkplugs still shows factory machine marks in spots ? Doesnt smoke or leak oil either ? Never uses any? Redline oil for the win 20-50w for summer 10-40w winter in cold areas The first number is pour rate at freezing temps , australia you dont need 5 or 10 w if you run synthetic oil , it pours well below freezing Mineral oil is like mud below freezing even in 5w The r31 uses 20-50 because it stays on the bearings better and lifters dont bleed down On my 34 you notice right away changing from name brand synthetic to redline , it runs much smoother and idles faster by 50-100rpm ive used about every brand over the years in various cars and always come back to redline Second option for cheaper mobil 1 20-50 synthetic Heard joe gibbs oil is awesome ( best) but havent tried it , super rare and from usa as well Your car will run cooler by a bit as well on extreme days

Yeah 17k is insane unless its a race car or you want a dyno toy his block is designed for dry sump Rb34 in r34 just sounds nice haha Its not about how much power it makes the torque increase makes the car much more drivable and seat of the pants fun , except traction problems lol weld up the N1 block if its not destroyed inside ? but i would dye check it and even xray it to be sure , double check all the bores and crank Did a harmonic balance issue arise maybe ??? or crank weight hit the block in a out of balance condition ? Just odd to crack without a lot more damage or freezing temps running tap water for coolant , welch plugs dont aways work as planned ?

Electrician enough said lol The point i was making is your current draw in your car 70 amp alternator ( r31 gx s3 is 65amp) is enough for what you want to run as long as your battery is up to the task and cables You wont be driving with max load all the time and you certainly wont want to load the alternator to the max load nonstop or it will fry , the charging system is built for the battery to take the load , the alternator to charge the battery and attempt to keep voltage up to 12v Ohms law change when voltage is higher ! Say 13.8-14.4 v ( new cars coming will have 24v or more systems they announced not long ago) Otherwise cars would have 200 amp alternators and tiny batteries!! if you depended on alternators to take the load 100% of the cycle once the car is running , alternators take power off the engine , the more it loads the more power it consumes depending on rpm , you know when it does everything is on , the car idle slows ? Not good on performance cars , but a street car has to compromise power for safety features and comfort so if you run a 34 alternator or even a chevy truck hd to run arc welders version you still need a decent battery not a water filled junk model, maybe a yellowtop or odessy in the tray size not half size !! and updated grounds , alternator to fuses, power to starter and all grounds to engine and frame Nissans and most all cars use crappy thin wire on grounds and main power to save costs and just meets min ratings , they didnt design in a buffer by much for uprated lights, pumps, fans,stereos, etc, the r34 alternator to fuse box wire is maxed out from factory more then 80amps would cause issues on it, r31 is just as bad 10ga wanna be 8 ga if I remember right ? Update it to 4ga !! Your looking at a very expensive update for no reason , if your car is in proper condition it should be fine , one thing on r31 is no timer or thermistor on rear. window grid , it will just stay on I had one that has a broken switch and it just stays on till you shut off the car even in 40c days ?, its the ex's car so her problem now lol that item pulls a bunch of current but should only be needed for maybe ten min unless its snowing or lots of people in the car ? So dont go crazy looking for a huge power alternator just update above you dont want 100% duty cycle and no way would you in your case for extended time Yes my car is insane , the battcap is a small battery /capacitor not really what I would call a second battery . A second battery requires isolation from main battery or parallel direct connection same type and model battery to much weight . I have room just dont want to double the weight in drivers front fender side or rear anymore then it has now( carbon fiber used no wood in stereo setup to save weight !) Yes if it was cranked a long time i would need a much bigger or multiple alternator setup ( r34 dont have room ) but the subs wouldnt last more then a few min before they would catch fire or melt at max power , they see max power for maybe a min tops The cap bank and setup is a buffer for peaks of current , the voltage would sag below 10v within a min of no engine running it gulps power like a dusty drover in a pub haha I do have different pulleys to reduce the speed of the alternator into the sweet spot for power output And so it survives 7500rpm pulls lol Really i need a high output from usa but the cost is massive without a alternator sponsorship , 2 grand for one you only use rarely is hard to swallow ? Maybe in the future ? billet alloy looks nicer anyway haha The car copes with the load now ? As long as you drive it past the corner shops Yes it will make your ears bleed and more if you sit inside cranking it up, i dont it is a demo car for audio spl and i use a remote outside the car for contests , the car is apart right now for refresh ,but i would be happy to show you the current draw at the next show I attend ( cant crank it anywhere near people or police would rock up in seconds) its extremely loud !!! But also sounds good on low volume for sound quality shows Sadly i dont have the car back together for extreme hp show but Just look and follow the ground shake for old grey haired guy cranking Korn, linkin park or some off the wall music lol Stupid maybe but it works just like a crazy powerful engine You only use it once in a while and both will get you in trouble if you do in public Both will get your car impounded and fines galore if used wrong so if you want a diagram of updates to make so you dont have to waste a mint for no reason I would be happy to prove one if your interested ? prob post one for sticky in car audio section anyhow ?

Oh yes its more then 600 amps just to two amps and can peak @720amps the car has 2 amp shunt meters with peak hold one in front one in rear The battery is 2600amps not cca either The capacitor bank is 100 farad !! And the batt cap is 600amps instant power alone And 1 farad cap for the cars electronics inside the fusebox chassis The sub amp pulls insane power its most likely the only one of its kind in oz and its not the biggest of the brand . The big one is 26,000 watts mono !! and can be strapped together to double that . I'm not talking alpine mate this is serious power 5 times the biggest alpine amp I think I know a bit about advance electronics and ohms law, degree is it and 25plus years in it Cca by the way is a pointless measurement in oz Its design for usa where you base that on cold weather cranking amps , 550 is shite anyway The battery i run is the most powerful you can buy for 12v market and size constraints and not run li poly or 14v-16v model And your wrong the current draw can exceed ratings up to the point of blowing a fuse or parts A dead shorted battery will produce more then rated power till it explodes