Carbon 34

No the real crims use finger nail cutters and sporks ( flying joke), or even worse envelopes for serious papercuttage Not sure how they havent spotted it yet At least the person in it didnt get hurt in the snatching . Just another reason to enable anticarjacking on alarms very few people enable it the worse the economy gets the more criminals come forward for addition items

You can buy a chrome cover that slides over it? ebay england has them I'm making a carbon cover from mold of CAS to slide over

no The battery will sit around 12.5-13 volts , your redtop wont like being discharged so go for a long drive or find a charger that supplies high current to refresh it or it will fail before its time You need to rethink your fans and fuel pump , you need upgraded wiring for a few things and relays fuses etc , upgrade grounds to engine , alternator frame bracket , not sure how powerful the rb20 alternator is but the other is most likely 80amps Would guess its about 65-75 amps like older nissans had voltage should never exceed 14.4 v or you will have overcharging problems and fry a few things If your lights go superbright and stay that way more then likely the regulator is " stuck" open allowing excess voltage a dangerous problem That will cause death to a lot of the car components and may cause battery to explode and catch fire even agm batteries can explode !! And remember these cars were never designed to run amps, fans , extra current fuel pumps etc on top of day to day items , in bad weather you can exceed current input from alternators

Yes done a few sets depends on , tools you have like compressor , sandblaster, spray gun, respirator and clean place to do it if tyres are off ? Valves out much easier damage to rims like rash What you want to paint them in ? colour wise did my 34 rims with a rattle can the night before a show from pearl white to qm1 lol not the best but didnt take off tyres either , going to soda blast and respray when it warms up more tyres and valves out !! Worth it yes , be easier if i had free tyre removal and remount and a daily driver to use while off

Black r32 , black wheels no wing tailgating a harley in dinga

That sucks getting more brazen The weapons choice sounds like a friggan road crew ? Whats the person who owns it first name , saw that car in birkenhead a while back looked like someone I knew a while back ??

I can honestly say when I started doing installs for a shop the owner was so cheap we reused off cuts and soldered them together .dodgy as hell !! The guy had a dozen shops in one town doing that !!! And the worse return policy ever we never had repeat biz !! Or good rep even It was horrible Then moving to a high volume shop and working 14 hr days at least . It was insane but enjoyed it No cheap skates lol but you learned how to fast and accurate The best you could , days flew by!! Money rolled in too lol Making the jump to super high end , no expense spared installs. working on the most exclusive cars ever produced , you learn do it so perfect it was art even in a harness , the owner had OCD and would shred your install if it didnt exceed perfection in everyway . But we had cars for weeks . Months and even a year , sounds slow but the car would be stripped inside , we never did " just an alarm" it was always the full tilt system 10k sales would be a min , a few exceed 100k yes you read that right !! most of the cost was labour , it was prob the most amazing place to work never boring and never lame cars , i bet only a dozen times it was a simple install that took Just a day or two , but the learning experience to be padantic and always do it right , every zip tie was lined up , flush cut , wires taped and soldered , flux cleaned , heat shrink on audio wires colour matched , wires spun into a mesh to cancel noise and looked perfect, spray glue and gaffer taped to floor pans so they could never be a hazard or wear into the floor carpets , custom molds of dash parts , colour matched plastics and materials, fiberglass work galore , tearing apart devices and remote wiring into clusters of radar detection etc, crazy alarms that could do anything and that was before all the smart crap , even use factory tape !! The cloth kind or whatever the car used to hide any wires from even mechanics at dealerships Who will always blame every car problem on the alarm or stereo install strangely enough !! sadly the owner closed shop his son was killed in columbine school shooting , weird cause I remember his young son helping around the shop ( Rip young daniel ) And more experiences with my own company But its not volume its about doing it right everytime and zero failures due to your handy work , when a client can bring in his car that had install 8 years before and know exactly how its laid out behind the panel and wants it removed for his next car , even though you didnt install it the shops high standards it looks like your work , no suprises or rats nests , funny but at that shop equipment failure rates dropped to about zero Because nothing was slammed in !! for a quick buck , of course alarms required readjusting sensors as they settled but we used that time To upsell the customer or cross sell into home theatre custom installs because the workmanship was flawless always !! , and that shop never had customers cars stolen and many would have been on the "gone in 60sec "list Cant say the same about the other shops cars still got stolen and stripped or audio , wheels ( they didnt torch cars back then !) I would say it was because you had no more then 2 hours for alarm no matter what car, truck, big rig, tractor it was installed in , some cars took 45 min others took forever , tractors suck , steel thick as hell and not designed for custom audio setups or alarms and different voltages aircraft , boats you name it but like chris , i had a test light but it never left my toolbox except to charge a capacitor up Fluke multimeter all the way ( rant ,speaking of that hope the bastard who stole my fluke 78 off the workbench rots even after 20+ years lol ) except special transistor testors and O scopes , RTA always a fluke with special test leads set Nowdays a good meter doesnt cost a grand so no excuse these days to skimp , a good meter will be used for life And like chris I have never fried anything !! So for the DIY installers , if your going to do it , do it right and be padantic about it , be proud of your work , cause swinging around like a monkey under a dash for hours on end , on your knees , or feet wrapped around a headrest while your head is jammed under a dash in a sports car isnt for the faint hearted I would be happy to share my skills with the younger generation if they found interest ??? No takers ? I would hate to see the skills and DIY "give anything a go " attitude be lost on us older people who wont live forever to "just pay someone " generation I see these days ? you can never have to much knowledge its one thing you can take with you anywhere , so absorb as much as you can My sunday preaching lol long winded old fart haha

Hmmmm NO R35 2013 black edition modded to hell YES My old dodge 4x4 v10 extended cab fit ok haha piece of crap To fix the problem - ADR rules in bin and do it even better like a rollcage with backing plates thru the floor and add crossbracing for side impacts lol

Find that so hard to believe , in racing and aicraft Use myself on race cars and my dads mechanic days , never a failure that i remember unless it was crossthreaded or tightened without proper tool for fittings , its made in USA still not china or asia but who knows , I'll leave you guys to ponder it Only reason I have a hybrid oil cooler from mocal and setrab and earls is cost of aeromotive/ earls is steep in australia , rocket industry sells it here

Fithy dirty Black r33 with redline rim 5 spoke wheels and mitsu lancer roof antenna in dinga Black r32 white rims no wing dinga

Mine have been moved back on bride rails but on r34 sunroof still no headroom at 6'2" but large build not skinny butt I'm back about as far as legal you cant be passed a certain point on the B pillar or seatbelts wont work now i need monkey arms cause I have to lay the seats back still ( new seats as well) Wilshire motor trimmers does seat mods and engineers them in adelaide but wanted to do serious mods to the floor pan mounts etc , 1400 to do 1 drivers seat , just regular mount passenger side and the customer service was lame so didnt use them , still not happy with seating location , going to look at dropping the seat inside the bride rails to gain 40mm or so Sunroof cars loose 30mm headroom per sales manual , Damn jdm cars with no leg room lol Funny thing is when I was in japan I saw some tall asians , like 6'5" only thin as a rail , wonder if they cuss the local cars too ?

A filter isnt a filter !!! Ryco suck sharp metal inside and drainbacks , Go factory or k&n, mobil1 , plus those have easier removal bolt ( not that it should be more then hand tight anyway!) and some magnet catch and better antidrainback, thicker walls to stop collapes Why save 5 bucks and have engine failure because of it !!

Earls makes some of the best , (oldest company)most tested products on the market for cars, aircraft etc , they certify use on aircraft , you have install problem !! The weight or angle on the braided lines is such that its cracking overtime , do you have rubber grommets in metal pass thru ? And p clips holding the lines along the path ? is the cooler mounted in rubber like its supposed to be ?? or overtightend joint stressed the connection on install they dont require massive crankdowns to seal

Did you actually step directly on it !! ? Looks that way? I cant actually tell what i'm looking at is that the back underside ? Dont see the ends in photo A crack that long looks like it was stepped on fiberglass is stronger them kicking it around , my gtr wing bounced off the floor a dozen times and is still ok , same with a drift wing If you can flex it and the parts separate your going to have to grind it back and reglass it or rewrap it ! It looks cracked thru ? if it is just a hairline crack in the gel coat thats not a big deal ( is the part painted yet?) hard to tell on photo Both can be done at home but requires a well ventilated area to redo it, dusty and glass fiber is fatal in lungs , it cuts them inside till they bleed out And resin is flammable if mixed wrong and fumes will kill birds in house or near it when drying and irritate your lungs Rubber gloves, carbon dust mask min , long sleeves shirt , compressor and DA sander ? Optimum let me know plenty of videos on youtard I'm sure how to fix it You could carbon wrap it ??? lol Cost about 100 to do it if you do the middle bit only end plates become more difficult for home attempts Next time sleep with it dont kick it to the floor haha understand its a tight house on space

Sleeping with your wing lol Depends how deep the crack is ? Photos Can you flex it in a fair bit now ? or superficial only ? some easy fix , some grind it back kind

damn I should make some lol Or mod a gtt wing longer with adjustable blade in carbon , taller stands is possible too Pure carbon not those fake ones , I have the stuff to do it and can in different weaves and colours Of carbon or kevlar and probolt hardware , can do led brake light embeded in it to invisible nearly till you hit the brakes

We dont condone dangerous installs or broadcasting to the world the locations etc of alarms , we will point out without predujuce obvious concerns of safety but we have no way of testing the skill set of everyone on a forum before giving advice , so a blanket statement is sometimes best ?? we do like to help open minded people and pretty sure nobody would go off on you or anyone else Unless it was seriously dangerous or slander / slay someone for a noobie question ! And DIY is fine if you can do it safely go for it thats how a lot of us started off !! If you and your friends are happy with your work maybe you should seek 12v employment if you enjoy it ?? So put your guns away mate were all friendly around here

Thats because when they made the bonnet they used cheap resin not uv rated Uv resin cost a fair bit more but looks way better diamond clear from DNA paints works great too

Well put daniel I'm sure chris is chomping at the bit to reply lol I held out for another pro to answer People dont understand you can spends days on a car but in most cases your not making money on the install when it takes that long , you have to make money to stay in biz , alarms can be chucked in about hour or two on known cars , new models sometimes longer daniel is right heatshrink isnt normally used from factory , plastic tube crap is but its not tight , and split loom "taped up" is the norm Hiding a brain behind the common theft item ( radio) isnt smart at all , muppets will steal the brain just cause there idiots looking for anything of value agree less then a handful of people i would vouch for there work in oz or hand them my keys , theyre is a lot of people who know how but few meet my standards and common sense how to protect a car I think a list of great shops should be compiled behind the scenes by a few of us and sticky listed in this forum on audio to streamline it a bit ? chris ? Daniel? Thoughts

Dfferent bracket same holes , the plate surface is much larger , I have the tall june ones , porn lol

Phatt audio concepts - polo body works , ask for sam or brett they do great work Braeside

I would have to see a photo but your most likely going to have to tape it off and hand sand it , how harsh is yet to be determined could be 400 grit could be 3000 ???

I use ceramic clear its not harder then glass , and is fussy to apply , can turn milky easy and wont dry proper without a lot of heat I use a lot of ceramic paints in my car they work great for the right application but that isnt one I would recommend imo

vinyl wrap wont stay down just on that little spot in the heat it will peal off , save you cash this is 3000 grit not pure epoxy , had a fly land in it while wet. the foot print distortion is visible in the first photo, when its brushed normally its even higher gloss then this, this still needs up polished up I made a duct like that on my RX7 but it was steel and fiberglass , I had to hand sand it when I stripped the car to bare metal

excuse the poor photos Iphone lol this is the factory strut bar with a carbon 1 piece sleeve bonded to the steel , not baked in oven or vacuum bonded pressure bonded only but still makes the bar much stiffer. the sleeve are being used to make a no metal strut bar, all carbon and kevlar the only metal is the washers for the struts and the test one is way stronger then the factory metal one, the metal one started to bend the carbon one never flexed at all !!!! 3 layers of carbon sleeve , carbon and kevlar mounting plates I have the induction pipes as well in the process