Carbon 34

The heater should have been burped of air , engine in heater on full hot to be sure the core was passing without air traps which fry heads Did you back flush the system ? Should have before new engine ? The heater mixture solenoid working on the r34 its below the master cyl , fuel filter area not sure on 32's? , yank both hoses off core by turbo dump and try a garden hose with screw type ( cheapo) sprayer , try to put heater core in hot position by hand and run water into it on low / med pressure and expect the other hole to flood out crap or if its blocked nothing will pass , reverse and try the backwards way ? Anything ? Once done reflush system and refill heater on hot And fan on low, drain air out of bleeds a few times After hot and cool cycle , overflow will be sucked in a bit more then normal for a few days then settle full If you want to flush the whole system you need to use specific hoses , let me know

Sanding carbon back is a no no to unskilled You can cut thru it in the blink of an eye even by hand, strangely it sands easier then fiberglass the bonnet isnt uv stable which is why it fades , crazes etc , it sounds like its been touched up with clear laquer at sometime ? most crazy, crack and turn yellow you can sand it back carefully ( photos required for proper advice ) but even 400gritt will slay the carbon weave easy by hand. , Another option brush on ultra clear epoxy with UV and sand that back a bit and use car polish on the final bit , the product isnt sold in oz but I just did my strut bar and air intake pipes in carbon and thats the method used , that epoxy is good for 190c for a while and uv stable , water clear its safer that way and self leveling and bubbles come out in min , no heat just above 18c and no pressure to dry properly , just scuff back with 800 grit wet , wax and grease remover and brush on , cover to avoid crap getting stuck in it , dry in 24 hrs or less depending on temp / humidity Can be sanded and cut polished in a day , comes up like water on carbon , if you prefer matte that is even easier to fix up These fixes will last a long time , way longer then 2 pac or laquer

Too stiff Drive smoothe in bad weather , easy throttle, anticipate braking and idiots cutting you off , and drive to conditions not the speed limit Tire size is fine same as mine Oil on roads is likely Coming into corner to fast and then mid corner snapping throttle closed , unloads the rear end and it snaps it wide on you and your not steering into the skid correctly ends up swapping ends Bumpy roads ? unload the rear end and your under power flings you sideways , wet road just lubes the spin Expect all roads to be crap and oily in rain and go to a driving day on a skid pan on car control asap

Which wing stands you can get a few types ? link or photo ? Carbon is stronger then steel but can be brittle around drilled holes, cuts and of course shatters on heavy impact , i can take a ball peen hammer to a carbon speaker box 2 layers thick and it wont mark or shatter it so its stronger then it looks I would drill bolt holes with unibit titanium slowly and lightly sand the hole with 240-400 grit rolled paper to avoid sharp bits and weak points the bolts should slide thru not to loose or to tight fit A backing plate must be used but it depends on where it sits on the ribs under it , you want to avoid bolting thru uneven surface , or mold a kevlar plate to back it with wide washers embeded into the epoxy where the nuts sit , if its flat i have kevlar plates made already if your interested in a couple ? you can bond those on with tiger bond , kevlar keeps the bolts from ripping thru and is impact resistant , wont shatter The lock area is strong but could use a kevlar backer as well if used a lot to get to pumps etc A pure race car never street used ?? street use you need to know carbon is defect if you care ? sharp wing endplates are too if its pure race car your going to have to put a latch of somekind to hold it closed ? Quick release dzus fasteners are a good choice and made for carbon, fiberglass etc , ebay or aircraft parts sales , race shops sell them , use stainless or titanium not alloy version they can shear off in crash

Tiger bond and it wont come off A little dab of tiger bond or sika flex should be used just as a backup it can get wet and windy and hot in summer you would hate to kill someone if it flys off Or a drive thru car wash tear it off paint and all ? Red 3m doublesided tape is what to use nothing else will stick in the heat , make sure you prep the area wax and grease remover before sticking it Test fit it twice cause it wont move once it touches

depends on the spoiler , mounts , how often the boot will be opened , how the boot will be attached ( bolts and ???) and if its pure track car , i take it its pure carbon inside and out ? does it have a frame on the underside ? will you be using the boot latch /lock ? or ? In most cases unless the wing is huge and pedistals small you could prob bolt it on with a carbon or alloy backing plate Is it time attack high speeds or drift or ? High speeds big wing would shatter the carbon over time if mounted wrong ! A true seibon for sure ?? the fit should be perfect unless the car was hit at one point in time A few options exist shoot me a photo of wing /stands and underside of boot lid and answer questions above

Vinegar(white) works great on glass ( not tint) it takes off water spots and not harmful to most things , pop into spray bottle and mist it on the smell actually can kill other odors , you can use it on a zillion things if you find the guidebook for it online Home brand towels are even worse , like friggan sandpaper Use a proper soft microfiber towel ( only use it on glass and do not wash in fabric softener ) if you do it streaks like hell on paint or glass It works a treat on grils , sprinkle on baking soda after misting on and watch the foaming drop off the grease , actually in the navy lime cordial is used on grease go figure ?

The alarm is junk remove it and buy a proper australian standards model The remote prob costs 100 bucks ? Anyway google translate is your friend http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ja&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.carshopmaker.com%2Fshop%2Fshop131%2Fdetail.php%3Fid%3D1033&act=url

Dont do it !!! In the navy bootcamp we used newspaper and vineger the glass was scratched bad from it !!! It does work but not safe over time The glass looked like a bad detail job buffer fine scratches

Yes it is , (factory )you can just leave it on high with 20c part Or rb20 actuator brings it to 10psi a engine safe daily with supporting mods and stock look It really brings it to life no low boost just 10psi all the time just off 3000rpm till 7000 its still at 9psi Op6 series 2 garret turbo

Tiger bond if you never want it off again without a lot of work

Without ac vent mode and crack the window tops a bit With a/c you want recycle mode because it runs the air inside the car thru to dry the air , i grew up in wet snow conditions and over 35 years thats how you cleared windows the fastest , if you open the outside air it brings in damp air and takes longer to clear since the humidity is still high , go buy a 2 dollar humidity gauge and watch it both ways Yes clean windows free of the dash cleaner haze and smokers yuk or even dust , will make the windows clear faster , do not put air on the floor when your trying to clear them wait till your good and dry or it will fog up big time with wet floormats tint seems to clear faster then glass as well but i would say its the temp difference it acts as insulation a tad

Valvolene is best left to the daily . It doesnt seem to like rb engines , rb30 had massive lifter noise ( hydraulic lifters) when i used it to save some cash But yours isnt that noise the valvolene tends to not build a film on parts like other better brands i found royal purple in rb's isnt as smooth as redline or mobil 1 , I use redline in everything And never had oil failure in any car over many many years I would find a super long screwdriver or hose and use it as a mechanics stethoscope to find other issues just watch the moving parts and hot turbo I would be certain you have other issues as well , if the oil is black thats fine thats what its supposed to do is capture crap but if it went beyond change interval thats a problem a month or two not so much but more then that it can cause havoc in high power turbo engines and lead to turbo failure and ring issues or even fling a rod out if the bearing is coked ( burnt on ) in old baked on oil , that was a huge problem in 80's with turbo failures galore

factory it has 5 about 3000-3200 but also Has 206ps and 363 nm stock , on the dyno mine pulled near 200kw /503nm stock on series 2 5spd on 8psi , a few mods and it shot way up and made it way more fun and driveable ( i dont bypass the tcs most of the time ) my narrow roads are to bumpy at 100kph and rain is often deep puddles .Lots of trucks and trees to hit !! The power level its just spins the tires if you get on it and burning my tires is pointless and hard on the car boucing under power , my nismo diff hooks up a lot more already and gets violent when bounced in a dip or hole under power The tcs is a monster a clutch dump and the car will damn near stall it yanks the throttle closed to no more then 2000rpm ( mine failed once and it sucks bad !!) Sideways is fun but best left on the track please dont fang your car on the street and end up bringing more attention to hooning , go to a skidpan day or track event to learn, or driving school day out with your own car

Black wow is nothing special its been in usa for years Use megulars tire gel it works way better And smells like grapes lol Put it on a rag wipe on , wipe off to avoid flinging it on paint when wheels turn and reduce shine Trim use on rag corner rub on wipe off after a few min , after the first application do it again if its been a while since doing the trim it will suck it right up and filth would come off trim Lasts for at least 6 months on trim and 4 on tires Dont leave the dirty rags in boot on hot day it smells like hell quickly lol Works better them aerospace 303 as well

Its poor oil and to thin ,use synthetic redline , mobil 1 motul , castrol syntec , dont use lower them 10-40 weight , even 20-50 is ok in synthetic in the heat coming on soon Dont add that pour in crap to bandaid a problem with cheap oil The 34 uses solid lifters alway noisier but work better That sounds like lifter , bad oil for sure And gasket leak , rattle on heatshield as well That sounds really bad so dont fang it till its fixed worse case a bad cam or lifter or out of spec torque on cam lifter gap

Speed sensing steering ? low speed light , high speed tight Does the pump whine ? Air pockets or leak? Enough air in the tires ? Is the fluid foamy ? Or not red ? Dump oil replace with "lucas power steering oil " from stupidcheap 20 bucks and your steering will love you it makes it so much smoother and no more whine on the pump unless its shagged or full of air ( leaking ) Jack up the front wheels and turn lock to lock a few times to rid rid the air pockets and work the new oil in

The 34 boost comes on 5lb @ 3200 roughly And 8lb about 4500 or so , 34 also has a serious traction control that yanks the power out big time If you fang it even a bit It will start coming on to stop wheels spinning madly , the 34 can spin the tires in three gears with even simple stock boost mods on 265 rears and a lite fuel load , without tcs on its tail happy When you do mod it a little do the dump pipe it makes a big difference on stock everything else engine wise In the seat of the pants it becomes much more drivable around town doesnt chug at 60kph in 5th it really springs to life around 200kw @ wheels and light flywheel but on wet roads and bumps snd no tcs its a mongrel and demands attention or it will fling you into the trees I had a auto r33 gtst it was sluggish to me ? And it was modded more I think if your on stock tailpipe on the 34 it looses that growl of speed and a dirty airfilter would feel poor as well or heat soaked pod The torque and hp is higher on the 34 but gear ratio isnt the best for australian speed limits

Autobarn lol They kept trying to sell me the "qm1" crossmatched from the book and i know the paint code for the rattle cans from duplicilour comes up as holden sedan not nissan qm1 the pj number is different they had to refund my money cause it wasnt even close to polar white My advice go to a car paint store the other guys are muppets at paint matching My money is on holden colour or early generic nissan (70-80's) which had more yellow in it Also r34 like mine had super hard paint code qm1 same colour just different mix of clear its worthless , someday I'll grind it back to metal and redo the whole car , its extremely nice when its done but damn its a lot of work

It can still !! on some circuits on much newer cars but not likely in the hands of a installer who knows the tools purpose like yourself And has access to inside info on diagrams etc ( which are rarely right lol) someday I'll pop over to meet you and see your biz I only brought it up because we know what to do and the tools and risks , but the average joe see's test light 2 bucks awesome!! Then blows the airbag or trace on the circuit board on the cluster , I'm sure you have run across a few disasters from DiY as well It comes with the job I like DIY in some instances , but feel alarms arent the best test of skills for most people and end up costing people twice Or voiding the warranty ( lifetime on some products if pro installed ?) insurance might also be a issue if the car is stolen ?

That looks like the holden version , serious they have a cross reference to it and the lazy person didnt ask enough questions I ran across it twice now when i needed a rattle can to touch up my wheels the day before a show Two places crossed it to some holden paint code ( my car is also qm1 ) It can also be the primer behind it is different ? Bet on the first one holden colour

Sorry have to jump in DO NOT use a test light on any car with electronics in it , it will fry ecu, pop airbags , stuff abs you name it, a simple probe into the wrong wire your done and the repair bills can be huge !!! Ive seen experienced installers fry a super rare porsche ecu on a 959 one of the first out of customs in usa !! part was 4 grand to repair it and a probe from 5 dollar test light smoked it dangerous when airbag hits you point blank in the head ( a digital mutimeter can be purchased for 10 bucks , cheap but useable , spend the extra and buy the good one it will last a lifetime in most cases ) Sorry but DIY alarms are a bad idea , most do not come with install instructions and dealers dont hand them out in most reputable shops , even the net is scarce on new models or how too because you cant tell the skill level of the DYI person , if the car stalls and causes a crash somebodys ass will fry for it like the installer or mentor No disrespect to anyone but it takes a while to do it right and hide it proper , alarms can be slammed in about hour or take days you tell me which you would like to depend on ?

I had a car cover on my custom painted rx7 outside all the time in LA cali and denver for 11 years , it wasnt a custom cover but flannel soft on one side slightly water proof but breathable on the other 1 layer of fabric , had some elestic around the bottom corners and lock with cable on middle of it , as you know acid rain is in both towns , snow a foot deep or more , salted roads in winter , criminals , windy as hell around 200kph sometimes in denver front range , sand , salty air in LA lived on a large boat ,batteship so car was parked on the marina all the time , truck soot the docks in fast and furious is where it was parked Car cover issues Wind will wind it up only the cable lock will keep it on and not in outerspace took about 60-70km winds to fling it loose Snow when it melts it left the acid dirt sitting on the paint like a big filter of crap not likely here Rain , it must breath or it will rot the paint and the cover , it has to be able to dry itself pretty quickly not sit soaking for days unless its still raining Also leaves crap but not as bad Car must be spotless on rub points if its tight Has to be able to clear hot tailpipes Mirrors must fit Must be locked on always , it will fly off or be stolen Overall it saved my paint job once it tore that was it the paint was stuffed from uv acid etc Cant put on fresh paint either bonus of cover Theft deterent the crips tried to steal my car a thousand times but the cable lock setoff. The alarm easy it can be tied into alarm trigger they never got it !! stops people stealing tunes , out o sight out of mind Car stays cleaner cause your careful more , Car is much cooler Saved my car from hail a few times when other cars had windows knocked out and dings galore Saves on dings and nicks a lot Saves the bird poo Mark it with your rego or the ticket police will love you , rego must be visible Drawbacks Cost up front 300+ for non custom one Takes about 4-5 min to install if its not windy and put away properly thats a average you can do it faster if needed If you dont like making beds forget it its very close to that haha A soggy cover stinks in the boot / bag Must be scotchgaurded often it looses it fast in the extremes Can attract crims - curious buggers Can attract graffiti artists Must be used often and can be a pain to be so padantic about a car ( ladys hate to come second haha) can scratch if your not careful Catch fire on tailpipes Yet another bulky item to take to laundry mat to wash ! Its heavy as fark wet home laundry will die can mold and cause car inside to mold if your not careful in drying it Now days microfiber ones would be great but hard to find unless you shop usa and they never had skylines so a custom one will be hard to find Dont buy a plastic based waterproof one they kill the paint they dont breathe enough , only good if your not moving the car for months outside in australia i think it would attract idiots ( vandals) So i opted to not cover my car , maybe in the garage but out in the open i think it would be a week tops before it was molested Like a naked virgin by some wankers

Go see sam or brett @ phatt audio concepts in braeside , they do great work and know skylines Tell brett troy sent ya off sau Dont get turbo timer hooked up its a defect and ghey , gps tracking is advised if your budget allows

The driver lol Serously the little wing or no wing makes them look horrible , a gtr wing makes them sooo much nicer , no wing they look boring like a camry stock wheels is a no no that makes the car look lame add that to a faded silver paint and frosted headlights and its not very nice looking , actually just about every car can have a combination of items that makes them look poor , the 33 can look great at least if doesnt have the horrible dash cluster on r32 lol that is a fail on every car that had that style even the R34 and 35 has to grow on you ?