Carbon 34

Not ADR approved but lol Pure carbon boot (rare) on r34 no spoiler installed can be lifted with 1 finger , maybe 2 kilos tops Thats bare no locks or brake light Carbon covered fiberglass bare is about 7-8 kilos Factory boot , damn heavy for the size lol The strut rods will crack the fiberglass over time as theyre designed for steel and heavy , you can buy low pressure for carbon parts The strut rods create a pivot point and the boot lid tries to fold where the rods stop , on r33 it wont be so bad like a bonnet strut is Carbon is way stronger then steel But can be brittle and unless you source a pure carbon boot which cost 3 times as much the fiberglass inner part will be the failure point over time But its really not a issue about closing and pushing it up the leverage is gone when its flat except where it screws in If you cant find low pressure struts or someone to mod your current ones give me a pm Mine are from usa

Polo body works @ phatt audio concepts Braeside They do some very nice work

Bass flex will still happen unless you use a dynamat for roofs !! It makes it cooler too i hate my sunroof it takes 30 mm out of non existant headroom and most of the time it too bright to open most of the time , ,I had mine dark tinted and black suede on the roof which looks odd at first inside but much nicer them crap grey They say the tint will shatter the glass from excess heat , ive had it on for 5 years no issues and my past rx7 glass roof for 11 years never shattered from the heat retention and cools the inside a tad If your ok on headroom and a quality body shop can do it safely it might be the go? The switch curcuit is a simple one

No dont do it , its defect for one and the bouncing is a dead give away on hacked factory springs !! dont go too low , stance looks cool but handles poor , oz roads suck and the bumps will annoy the F out of you or tear off the guard lips and your tyres And the handling suffers from hitting bump stops and shocks bottom out , most r31 are tired now so do it right with shocks and springs ( check r31 forum ) lots of used but useable shocks and king springs floating around for cheap

Its not a r34 series 2 for sure ( no tcs ) But most likely r33 , you can find a part # on te mounting flange in most cases ? if its like r34 they used a few different tps for auto and 5 spds so better safe then sorry for the right part?

From all the r34 factory brochures i have it doesnt show any 40th spec models Think they considered the r34 as a model year change over from the r33 but I could be wrong ??

My series 2 bar hits and my car is legal height plus the roads suck , go slow and at angle ad dont pull to far into parking blocks My new custom bomex /top secret / my mods body kit is now rebuilt with carbon and kevlar weave to make it scrape proof and not shatter on impact , weight is similar to all carbon just needs painted and fitted

Info , facebook link and last sessions photos Aug 25th 2012 Should be a big turnout , bbq as well cheap fun!! Just off south rd about a block address in link http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/index.php/topic/567478-measq-sa-round-6-ampl-audio-seaford/page__pid__1317564#entry1317564

Mad r33 had one for sale cheap not sure if he still does ?? Down marion way

There is a few racing batteries ( li ion carbon fiber cases) but cost a mint And must be recharged with special charger that cost $$$

CCA is based on cold weather ratings from usa But gives you a good idea of how well it works Depends on if you have hi current items Stereos etc or let the car sit for weeks on end without long drives Yellow top good mix with light grey case Just a starting battery red top dark grey case 600-2400+ is fine but use a 100% sealed battery Called AGM .., optima or odessy , stinger brand ( odessy rebrand) And upgrade your terminals same time There are a zillion brands of battery but the one's above stand behind the product if purchased from Authorized dealer ( beware some shops used by sau members sell voided warranty imports from usa ) Ive had optima that lasted 11 years in a few hi current cars so it paid for itself 5 times over ( but in usa right next door to factory is clearance center , 65 bucks for a brand new blem with minor case marks lol ) but expect 300-400 Odessy is more but in most cases way more powerful

Yeah on the cheap its cool but by the time you add the cost of cables etc your racking up a fair whack of $$ I know the double din china radio I have in my box in the shed could do it running CE 4 updating to the new version would open up a lot more options not sure what chris thinks he could do it for cost wise ? but if the radio is cheap as hell it might be worth it

Agree to above , unless a small cap is needed to jump start the spin of a high torque motor , most of those have built in caps already for that reason But it loads the alternator up making matters worse

Really that model is a bit large for a skyline case wise ? I take it the case is light grey not dark grey? What application is that electric motor from ? That much current sounds like it would be slow to spool up as well? Scooter or golfcart motor? How many rpm and hp does it produce ? Sounds like a lot of hp not a lot of rpm ? in my head I would think its not the right motor for the application and overkill industrial size A turbo spins fast and even a dremel motor wouldnt spin that fast about half the max turbo speed ? Does the motor spin on power always ? or disengage at xboost or rpm ? like a a/c clutch setup? I would doubt the motor use's max current draw once running on a turbine load ? have you tested it with a amp clampmeter underload? free spinning it prob uses a quarter of the current ? Your setup would work except on short drives or bad weather days where alternator power wouldnt recharge the battery enough it would short charge often and fail in half the time of normal A few other little glitches the upgrades would include all main wiring to starter and charging curcuits to fusebox and of course the electric motor is borderline at 4ga wire it could overheat and catch fire 150amps max on the best 4ga wire in normal heat 23c ? underbonnet on a hot day you could be pushing beyond the limit on the wire even at 130amps , depends how long the run is and if the wire is in cool area or next to a smoking hot turbo ? Your going to need a resetable breaker , 20 bucks a fuse works but that size fuse gets expensive if it triggers a dozen times during testing or on roadside a button push beats trying to find AGL or mini AGL fuses in whoop whoop Does the motor use a trigger to turn on or is just on or off all the time ? a fused relay for that A capacitor of 2 farad (2000watt) would buffer the start but it puts a load on the alternator as well recharge making matters worse not recommended in electric motors the cap is for a start current jump is all , in car audio a cap recharges the coil and transistors during hi current transients in the music . A lot different application then yours If any cap was used a smaller one depending on a lot of factors / specs in motor itself ? Some have caps built in ??? the motor has to be electronically isolated so the electronic noise doesnt enter the factory ecu , knock sensors, and car radio it could wreak havoc if its noisy electronic ripple? Not a big deal to solve in most cases If you dont want this public you can pm me nondisclosure agreement to protect your interest and i could see exactly what your trying to do ? have extensive fab and engineering skills I see your idea kinda a no lag device ? but I ponder your exact setup might be going down a path of using off the shelf motor that doesnt suite The idea except on a lab bench ?

Its not a big deal If you can get into the OS interface and hardware supports it already ?? Most of those china radios can be hacked easy to pop in your own graphics etc if you have time and it has the port or bluetooth to get into it most do Since its just windows CE in most cases not Linux or propietarty software Ipads can do it bluetooth and have a HD touch screen ? incar pc As well ? and ipads are way better lol you can surf porn on the road lol Not while driving of course lol , that pop out format is old tech and blocks a/c controls and vents on a lot of cars ?? Farking hate it unless you car has no orther option Its just not that cool to bother but feel free to go for it for sure ? always good to see interest

Lol thought so Which colour battery are you using ? And the size ? Or model pleas

Well Your motor has the wrong specs For 100% efficient which its not ? If it runs 2400w max @12v that = 200amps At 12v and 120amps max = 1440w max Could it be a 12v/24v motor by chance ? One of the ratings is wrong What duty cycle do you think you would run max current draw for a min or two? most electric motors have a max duty cycle in specs ?? Your going to have to cool it somehow or it wont survive long?? Forget the physics law name but you cant produce enough power to be 100% efficient to run another device.... your battery operated motor will consume more power from the petrol motor to get the current to run the electric motor so the gain is minimal kw unless you use the electric motor that swaps to normal turbo at 3000rpm ? To have no lag and useable boost Or NA car looking for a cheap min mod for extra power ? another way is use a system like kers on F1 car that stores wasted energy ? You could make one off the driveshaft using alternator or even generator and use ac or dc motor ?? that runs independent of the cars electical system diode isolated but could be backed up by car battery in the case of no waste energy stored like on first start it wouldnt have lots of available current ? But without more info i could only get you into a reliable solution to run 120amps even on a 80amp alternator short term Figure 60amps to run the car on rainy cold night ? Or hot rainy night ? with minimal buffer of course LED lights etc all help ----------- I pull 7000watts max @12v but its for 30seconds in car audio , i use one smallish but extremely powerful battery and some trickery lol To provide that kinda power to the boot On 80 amp alternator And 100,000watt car audio systems exist but they operate in 16v and 4 or more alternators and a boot load of batteries Or high output mobile welding alternators 300amps plus Anything is possible depends on your goal and specs and of course $$$$

Black r34 no wing in dinga Purple r33 gtr gold wheels dinga esply just now

Your welcome Genius a skyline wins again lol

Yes lol Ok the factory alternator is 80amps max and is fused at that level even high km still test close to 80 from the ones I've checked Upgrade charge wiire to 4 Ga Ground the alternator frame / bracket bolt 4ga which optimia red/ yellow/ blue ? Yellow is best choice You can run a pair in partallel if purchased same time , same specs and test internal Resitance is close as possible Without a charging diode breakout , optima arent the most powerful around but still a great battery its late now but let me layout some ideas for you and crunch some numbers its very doable without a major drama but i can get close to exact expectations Options Big main battery Twin smaller but higher load batteries Main battery with batcap Isolated twin batteries like 4x4 uses or huge stereos Li ion battery High output alternator $$$$ or a better electric motor spec Happy to help ya

So let me get this right your a sparky for 12v and cant find the fuel pump wire or google it properly ? Seriously step away from the car and do not help anyone until your better trained on how a car works and how to interface the systems without damage or danger to the owner or car I tell it like I see it I'm being a dick for a reason , to save someone heartache from bad advice , not to attack you personally ( not everone knows it all and never will ) but the warning signs are in about your skill level thank you come again

Depending on how easy it is to hack the interface ( easy most of the time) something like this would work ( windows is piss easy to hack if rhe hardware supports it ) http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx

Checkout DNA paints you'll change your mind lol Based in melborne The blue sapphire candy is nice , intense blue Diamond clear it Would be stunning White a good one is 88 rx 7 anniversary white Rare colour its whiter then white when sprayed on white primer , its so white it picks up the blue tint in street lights at night like a candy Blue My old rx was painted that way . Its hard to describe but on white primer its crazy white , the factory used grey and thats still whiter then qm1 white nissan , most likely repaint my r34 next year that colour its WOW for a non pearl white Pearl white looks nice but is a pain to keep nice Had a pearl white and candy blue toyota truck , forget touchups on pearls and candys its near impossible Love the blue and s3 purple 34's but unless my car was stripped bare i wouldnt change the colour to far from current imo

You can put in a trim pot resistor within the value range your after but use care not enough resistance and you will blow the leds the second the power hits Not sure how they have those wired but you will need to make each ring and brake, tail light adjustable , using a ohm meter once you do one you can match the other exactly so they look even I'm debating the leds but fear the defect for not being approved ( SA) makes up the rules on the fly lol , once my gtr wing is mounted it has red leds embeded into it now for 3rd brake light so it would look more balanced then standard lights And I'm sick of Fear of defect for updating i be safer ffs i have police station a few blocks away and it never fails i have one follow me weekly And still unscathed somehow ? Maybe old age lol How many people have been defected for these ? curious I hate the orange part of the r34 taillights clear looks better

Call tim @ sew fine or brett @ phatt audio concepts in braeside vic they did the r34 Wilshire motor trmers in adelaide sells recaro they might help R34 gtt use different rails .. gtr floor pans are different and dont interchange Some r34 gtt have side airbags inside the seat according to brochure so beware , the airbags wont work on the recaros without someone who can interface it with the airbag ecu under the console ( dangerous as hell to play with not responsible for injury disclaimer ) After just fiting new seats to my gtt the car setup sucks balls unless your 5 ft tall and pain to be legal adr wise and still fit , ready to cut the floorpan brackets and bolt right thru the floor and backplate like rollcage Good luck