Carbon 34

Dont forget to do the one in ring around the ignition key , and window switches lol , and door open light which isnt wired on GTT , I've recast the red reflector to clear now if anyone wants one ? Then use any colour led ?? Lots of lights and places to put them , Converted GTR wing by cutting a groove and inserting red SMD led string and clear epoxy over it , sanded satin so its a solid red band when you put brakes on among a few other things lol

Call tim at sew fine interiors in vic , he did the recaros in the r34 for just cars give away car and is a great bloke for help He might be able to help ya, or search USA the Supras had those seat patterns on RZ models http://www.sewfine.com.au/

Dont do it It kills your paint, rubber, streaks like hell on glass and paint and makes your wipers dry out and shutter / hop destroying the motor and blades as they move across The evaperation is too fast at speed and it makes a mess The only time you need anything beyond water is if it gets below freezing ( which will crack your bottle and lines ) even the stuff posted above stuffs your detailed car up , best left for old crappy cars and mud bog trucks You can buy paste glasswax and it works to keep bugs off and water stains or rain ex if applied in a few thin layers works but only at speed , its meant for race cars and planes Just buy decent blades and change them yearly And just like anything rainex and wax wears off , do it as part of a detail job min to keep acid rain or tap water from etching the glass

Carbon bonnets in most cases can be cut and polished just like paint( except dry carbon) megulars m105 Or farcula and a buffer Then use some fireglaze in top of a show car glaze applied with buffer ( do not use lambswool pads!!!) other choice sand up from 4000 to 12,000 grit then above , if the bonnet has cleared paint then sand carefully and repaint with diamond clear from DNA paint It can be flow coated with a new product that looks like 25 mm of standing water its so shiny but the cost and process is a big one left for a carbon layer , the product has to be imported from USA not sold here but is UV stable and used on jet engines cowl so heat from the sun wont touch it , note real carbon sands real easy and you can buff right thru it in a flash so use care Most bonnets sold here arent UV stable and get crappy in a few years if left untreated or in sun a lot

Says it was found on iphone rego app ? no insurance No alarm i assume Parked outside ?? I assume If you buy one insure it the same min !!! The next min alarm it Then club lock and gps tracker Common sense goes a long way too End rant , f**k the scum bags who steal Until the serious crime laws are stricter and follow you from youth it wont get better

Dont forget i'm back a good 50mm- 75mm now to the end of the rails , otherwise you could most likely get by on redrill the bride plates , more leg room

Depending on the year of car they have superdefrost mode , quickway to defog turn on recirculate and airconditioner it dries the air quicksmart or hit the defrost mode on the bottom left , never use mine its crazy mode lol If your car seems moist maybe your heater core is leaking ?

Colorado rocky mountains , denver a mile high 5,280 ft drives can go over 14,000 ft it can get so cold mineral oil has to be spooned out of a bottle , but synthetic is fine , that is the quickest selling point to buy it ever lol Magnetic oil heaters in the oil pan, plug in coolant warmers , cardboard over the radiator so the car can warm up on the highway and and summer is outback hot only cools off at night most of the time , i have photos of my old datto in the drive you cant see it the snow is that deep in the city , the engine compartment solid snow but she started still haha , drifts over rooftops !! Dont miss that haha

Yeah 6'2 and not a stick bug lol here but sunroof car , damn thing haha Had two 5mm plates welded on both sides of the brides , I'm ready to cut the floor out Mounts and go straight into it like a rollcage lol

It might be a bad rca easy fix? You can get a groundloop isolator but thats a bandaid and if your alternator is stuffed it wont fix it, you can do a cap across the radio power to ground ( think jaycar sells a kit) or make your own If your radio is culprit Grounding the rca rarely fixes the problem unless the rca ground is bad inside the jacket it creates another ground plane/ path is the amp close to battery power cable ? Maybe too close ? Amp ground should be fine i thought it was direct to neg terminal not same bolt , you could move it it can pick up noise in some of the weirdest places This is why installers hate used equipment on installs haha you can spend days chasing your tail Even power antennas can cause it if the radio ground is better thru the antenna them ground wire Floats ground thru antenna , or ground thru dash lights a common mistake

Your positive its alternator whine? , not fan or other induced noise? Alternator whine speeds up as you rev the car ? Run a cheap pair of rca outside the car to the amp ? even 2 dollar cheapies for test Amp should be grounded to car not battery Radio grounded to shifter bolts not a good ground , paint and grime tar , grounding the rca normally makes it worse , you need to break the ground loop not enhance it with yet another path clean terminals on battery ? batttery at full charge ? alternator ripple can be tested for a/c leakage if its on the way out ? A cap can filter a/c ripple from charging Can you run another source ? Ipod or ? Instead of deck ? Gain on the amp shouldnt exceed 3/4 in most cases , you can set the gains with tester or meter if you need more gain buy a overdrive from audiocontrol or similar 13v preout with clip meter ? Or new headunit with 4-6v preouts Prob the best source ever for engine noise And chasing it down Lots of goodies this guy is one of the original gurus of car audio And if you read this he is the original co guru lol http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=121 http://www.davidnavone.com/heresHow/august2003.htm

I'm going to one up ya sorry Where I used to live it was -19c evernight in the winter air temp and -9 during the day , windchill way colder , and 45c in the summer , and 2 km above sealevel at the lowest point , it used to be the old school idea start the car let it sit till its thawed out , it was found its harder on it that way , your better off idle it for 30 seconds or so then drive very conservative and slow speed not leap on highway for the first few k's to let the temps in all the parts come up not just the engine but the drivetrain , it works ,plus you can tell right away if the car is frozen to the ground quicker haha , And on hot days on my old car it wouldnt start if you didnt let it idle for 30 seconds before shutoff The high altitude would boil the fuel in the carb and the engine would vapour lock And same on fuel injection cars it would boil in the rail and pressurize the lines , you had to open the fuel cap to start it , it would go whoooosh when it did open , made dramaticly worse with Ethanol blend fuels !!!! So just sell it off mate Go on hate me haha

Drift / saas says they bolt up to bride , my ass they dont without mods , minimal welding and new bolts , mine are in but no way low enough yet back further now but still to f**king high even on ultra low rails Some magazine ads say free rails no expire we should take them up on that haha

Looks like a series 2 R34 cluster with a cheap carbon overlay Piss easy to make a nice one , i have my old series 2 cluster in closet and mountains of carbon

Why fit it ? Brand new ebay it off overseas its a waste

Think its been covered 400 times Disconnect it Turbo timer is instant ADR defect Turbo timer is ghey sit in car for 30 seconds and drive it easy before shutoff !! Everyone has time unless your Butt mud is oozing from the brown starfish Sputterbutt is a bad thing , only exception to a timer lol Turbo timers are from the days of poor oil / dirty oil and no quality turbos with cooling Causing premature failures from oil cooking on spindle of the turbo ( or engine bearings )

Mate Its not worth it really , buy a 100-150 dollar radio ? They suck balls that bad even a 60 dollar radio is upgrade but might not have the features you need give chris rogers a call off here see what he can do for ya first ? 99.9 % of the time on that vintage of cars unless you have the exact parts already its a waste of labor to interface Anyway Its hard to say r34 came with at least 4 or 5 configurations / options for radios depending on the year and options ... would have to see what it had in it now????? To point you in the right direction - buy a new radio and be done lol

Do you have a digital ohm volt meter? check the ohm load on the front speakers not connected to the amp just for giggles , anything around 4 is ok , if you can check or dead short Car ground to speaker leads each one on front channels If I can make out correctly your amp is stuffed , really to dig into it is not worth doing these amps or replacement would be cheaper and less hassle One thing you could check is the rca joint where it meets the curcuit board could be cracked on channel "a" you could smell test it once open if fried you will smell it ( remove from all power first !! High voltage inside ) or look for obvious burns on the board just as easy to junk it at that point they only cost about 150 new ?? if your on the cheap i have 4 amps collecting dust i would sell or swap cheap as ? 4 , 4X 75 watts 990 watts max custom painted , 1 , 5 channel 55x4 220 mono rms ,1100max , someday i'll pop them up for sale lol Either way you could replace that amp cheaper then fixing it in most cases

Sitting alone with no size reference and odd pattern they look Like farm lights lol

Why on earth would you haha sorry factory radios are good doorstops Fm mod which will sound horrible and struggle with jap freq bands Depending on the car solder jacks on it Or ipod to rca depending on the radio Ten more ways Really its not worth it buy even a cheap deck and your way ahead

These switches dont work that way , your talking motion or heat detection These detect the moisture resistance in your body produces Even if its only slight , they can be adjusted to the point of actually touching the spot or 40mm from it Thru 25mm plexi . They are expensive and not for the faint hearted to wire up .but can replace any switch in a car and since you cant see the switch unless you setup a led or outline they work for kill switches even better My car is converted to push button start as well lol To many toys haha

The touchless switch to turn on anything is handmade , you can wave your hand close to the area and it switches without touching anything Its adjustable so your not flicking stuff on and off by accident

Dan is the man for LED dash lights He's on eblow as well ? Funny he gets back to people fast as hell normally? Odd Dan has great service !!! had one fail he sent me new ones the next day !!! I found some other LED sources for dash lights but they cost 50 bucks Corncobs of nano smd leds ? Which might be better on r34 The rest of my smd leds are made in china spec but a 15 metre reel of waterproof cuttable ones was like 15 bucks free shipping Wont beat that price local and quality is good too wont work on dashlights but footwells etc it will They must be soldered not crimped !!

Mines about tens times that but in blue , the seats look like they float in midair and rear seats as well Looks like the car had a blue explosion of light but mine is on the door triiggers and capcitive touchless hidden switches to override so missle command isnt needed lol Cost at least half of what you did , i had to put a few white leds to override in the roof for when i actually want to read something the blue is so intense lol It looks mental you cant see any lights just a friggin blue glow , then all the dash lights and digital gauges are ripped apart flush mounted behind clear black out resin and blue led displays too , i'm doing a build video and photo write up But won't post up till my new internet is up and running , the car is setup for shows - car audio

I could be wrong but did those come off a green tractor labelled john deere ? Lol