Carbon 34

I think you need to answer these questions first How much do i want to spend ? You can buy a boom box cheaper then you can build one but sound wise a home built would sound great ! Can i fabricate myself or pay someone to do it? Could get expensive ? How big can it be ? To big to drag around or uses to much power to be worth it Is it for the shed or portable to beach etc? Big difference in sound and parts you can use Another option is just buy some splits for a boat / marine speakers and marine amp ? Most car audio companies have a line for boats now ??? If not then two ways , you could spend 50 a pair or 5k a pair , if i was building some and didnt have a box full of speakers alteady , i would try some car audio on sale splits 6.5 or even 8 in if you can find some cheap then they have crossovers already , might meed some tweeking but you have the parts boards covers etc Or some audax titanium tweeters , tiny as hell and cheap too ,, and some 4in mids gold-sound brand my mate designs them in usa , sealed front channel speakers and a 8 in sub built into main enclosure slot loaded single reflex box in mdf for you but i would go exotic kevlar carbon for weight and destruction proof box and not a box shape but something crazy cool And iphone 4 or 3 or ipod Iphone charge cable and rca out interface Digital class amp . Prob soundstream or rockford since in usa there cheap and dollar is high 2or 3 emergency light batteries run parrallel to stay 12 volt but current available shoots up , a built in Fold out mutiple panel Solar cell with transistor / diode swtch to supplement charge at beach , as well as mini hydrogen cell , which i have already brand new lol and a super cheap smart charger for mains top up Over night Hard wired in Run amp mixed mono class d 2 channel amp bridged / stereo same time Stereo to splits passive and 6.4 mh iron core to sub @ 4 ohms if memory serves me right on inductance xover point been a while since not just going active lol Active is always better but not always possible Size wise it would be about the size of a two boot boxes maybe give or take ? Weight about 10 kilos , more for mdf you could do a pair of marine speakers Splits 6.5 inch Ipod Batteries Charger Conversion rca charger cable Two channel class d amp , cd cover size Charger And box , even smaller since no sub , 1 boot box size maybe slightly bigger would be enough for 6.5 in speakers , they would be sealed box but front face of cabinet horn flaired for extra throw and tiny db increase , not worth porting splits unless you can get parameters to calculate the port right ? Take a look at that link i sent you they sell heaps of speakers , amp kits you can use and if your handy with solder iron you could use amp kits etc Just watch usa shipping costs they can eat up the benefit of dollar being so high now Anyway i have access to the rta and a half dozen box programs if you get stuck and want a box design Best of luck , maybe I'll recycle some old gear for one when i get time but all my dust collecting amps are too big for the boom box but have everything else already

NISMO Lightweight flywheel and clutch for RB25DET Neo (R34) think it weighs 6.8 kilos and is forged plate only been in the car for about 30,000km not raced or track day, or dyno day on it just street daily driving mostly 100km roads not stop and go , not overheated either turbo spool is much faster and not a lot of slipping require to get moving in traffic like some flywheels. saves on your sychros and tranny bearings too. , pulls a lot harder out of corners with this flywheel setup then stock. supercopper mix nismo clutch plate is usable and didnt slip , nismo pressure plate might need rebuild or not ? , it works fine but has some marks from something flying around and hitting it , like nicks on the tang tabs a bit, nothing major . swapped out for a NPC flywheel and clutch while replacing tranny seals and rear main seals , didnt know it was a Nismo in it ? oh well my loss is your gain. 250 firm for the flywheel , clutch I'll just throw in free these combined new run about 1200 bucks last time I checked photos later tonite and micrometer measurements if needed pick up in aldinga beach, sa or can ship with added cost prepaid in OZ. PM me first come first serve. also factory R34 series 2 (9/2000) 5 spd speedo cluster with new nismo globes (I had Blue LED lights but swapped them for Nismo's when swapped out )in it. all gauges work fine. and has newer face not like the older models , has about 88,4xxkm on the clock , fresh polished clear plastic lens plate and shipped in nimso box. swapped for 300kph Nismo model so no longer needed bargain price 150 firm great for auto swap ? thats cheap for this model set with low KM's shipped or pick up as above. photos tonite PM items will be on ebay next week if no interest local

plenty of room in the side panels in the boot ? the side panels in the rear seat area, or buld a console to merge with the front, or ditch the not so light weight spare ?a little fiberglass and a shallow mount sub on one side, amp the other side done chris some 32's have the arm rest , some dont, I've seen a few without it, not sure what option level it is ? but anyway I understood the concept portion inbetween the seats. just BLOSE speakers are average at best compared to other options

You could do it Police and thieves will love you To remove the rear seat you have to re registet your car as a two seater and weldup sealup the holes etc or defect magnet A small comsole with sub would be ok like r35 but lots of better options exist

You use iron core coils on subs to keep the ohm load from exceeding limitations and cost /size of the core of copper , even hand wound can get huge and wire size needs to big large $$ Air on mids to reduce distortion on speaker you can hear? A 24 db crossover on a mp3 based system is a waste of money , the cost to build or buysome built exceeds practical i thought you wanted this portable ? Those crossovers would be larger and rot in the sea air copper !! And outdoors at the beach you wont know you have a 6db or 24 db xover !! Phase group delay would vary so why bother outside unless your at a concert in a house yes Plus your wasting lots of power to run them ? 6db is fine Or go active , if you do a 4 channel amp most have 2 or 3 way xover options built in so you wont need more crap External xover audiocontrol is best for your money and lasts forever 60 bucks you can have mine ? Just sitting in a box 18db xover and preamp Sealed box is fine , your looking too deep into this its not a home stereo setup at the beach or park or shed you want Simple, good sound, depenable, cost effective, and must take a beating being moved all the time right ? You want the best sound, semi weather proof , cost effective and unique , not audiophile monster that needs a motorized esky to move it !!! The isobaric i speak of both ports are on the same side Your brain washed to sealed so why bother dropping exotic better options ? You need the port to increase db outside !!!! Trust me on that one !!! a well built ported box wont unload unless you drive it like a tard 12db bass boost and amp clipping at low voltage limit , but whatever keep reading the loudspeaker cookbook which is out of date by 20 years in speaker box building and drivers Still good lite reading lol You loose db transfer function boost outside !!! So you need more power off the amp which requires more battery power and heat reduction of some type ? Amps you wont like since your hung up on SQ digital 4 channel amps arent a perfect choice for SQ due to switching noise and amplitude cut off compared to a class a/b model , there are a few other hybrid amps as well I would say soundstream, rockford, alpine, for mid range price point Speakers i would use vifa, morel , dynaaudio for mids and tweeters and a JL sub or kicker solobaric for sealed small sub , cheaper or a neosub for more money and for SQ The sub needs rubber surround and plastic alloy or carbon cone or weathet proof ? And small box parameters with lots of excursion and spl at 1 watt should be at least 86db more is better You need windfarm, solar, hydrogen , and wave power to run some of your options lol The battery would never keep up for long You need to rethink the use , portable or not ? Cost wise your exceeding the sane price for a boom box You could do it for undet 500 if you had nothing to start with ? You could easy dump 500 in xover parts at 24 db alone !!! I think you need to narrow your focus on what you truely want and how much it might cost ? Imo My 2 cents worth

a photo of the remote might help ? identify it more then likely if the doors lock while in the car fine using the door lock switch, its the alarm wiring is stuffed or fuse blown on relays interface. could be a bad brain , since we dont know the brand ? nfi has any work been done on the car lately ? battery disconnected lately or gone dead ? L;ED on dash , blinking or always on ?

Second hand can be risky, and can die the next day without warranty ? plus installers hate old stuff missing parts or not fit to the car your not going to get the clearest sound you can get for 1200 bucks. buy some expensive headphones and audiophile cd player and disk if you want unreal clear sound. or sit live at studio your idea of clear might be way different to mine, clear bass ? or tight bass ? clear voices ? could be titanium tweeters to hear the highs loud and clear, but hissy other times cimbals clearly heard as the brushs sticks hit them, as above , or high end speakers, 5k a pair or more in perfect install, silent system with no noise between songs is clear as well? super clean audiophile amp or just the ability to get loud as hell and still be undistorted , different cars sound way different even with the same gear in it you can get a parts a little at a time to build up to a outstanding system ? seriously you can dump more then 1200 on a deck alone I've put in 50k- to damn near 100k system in parts and labour , so you do the math ? I've put 500 bucks in cars too and they sounded pretty damn good, basic but decent, enough and still loud and clear

yep its retarded, BLOSE car audio suck frothy sweaty balls . you can build a box that sounds better and takes twice the power and same space , why would you use that rubbish ? recycle it and be kind to the planet any sane installer would say no way. its a step backwards compared to the cost to use it. pro car audio walks all over BLOSE stuff, even cheap speakers are better then BLOSE if used in a good custom box did I mention BLOSE is junk , most are just paper cone drivers that die in the heat and wet weather (even the famous 301- 901 home speakers are paper cones in good tuned boxes) , low ohm load speakers with low power built in amps , used in a 7th order bandpass box, double reflex box to improve the sound ok one more time, it sucks and isnt worth it. break it open and use the magnet for your fridge photos cause thats all its good for or to replace a dead one in another R35 ? I wouldnt install it in my crapper

dont use cardboard, or clark rubber chunks, rubber is heavier then dynamat and must be glued perm to stay put. carboard is like a sponge and water will crust it till your car rusts. its like using toothpaste for bog ? just because you can doesnt mean you should you can get lightweight dynamat, ffs people who gut the deadner and drive on the street are tards, unless your car is a full tilt race car its not worth ditching it, not even for a few track days, save a few kilos , when you could just take a big dump to shed that much weight ? you drive on the street , speed limited extreme , why do you care if you have 5 kilos of dynamat in your car ? your better off making a lighter sub box or no sub or amp its like driving a rattle shite box versus a rolls royce noise wise. and with deadner you can enjoy the drive without the creaks and groans even with no stereo on. and it keeps a bit of the heat out of the cabin too. keep your race cars stereo free and gutted and your street cars with deadner , even a little goes a long way in the sound quality !!! all skyline doors , and a bit in the boot ,simple, the skyline doors or any frameless coupe doors always seem flimsy until you put on some dynamat

+1 to above old maps and pirate versions that expire bad support noisy motors fuzzy graphics on most or I'm blind..lol mismarked connections poor manuals somewhat muted freq range on some but just about everything is made in china or asia now. ? they work fine in most cases but can be fiddly and spit the dummy often requiring a reset , which clears all the setting out . annoying as hell

depends on what you call decent, ? you can if you shop right. and do most of the install or fabrication , and it depends on what you want in the end ? show car, sound off car or just music that sounds acceptable ? 1200 can buy you the last one , spent wisely and you roll up your sleeves and do as much as you can yourself . you can end up with a pretty damn good sounding system , wont be fancy brand names or mega loud , and crystal clear, but should beat the pants off any factory high end system and some" slap happy" higher dollar installs, expensive parts just slapped into a car for a quick buck sound deaden doors is cover millions of times on here, MEA car audio, youtube, etc. google it and read and watch the videos in this case order from usa on some of the parts now to save some cash, dollar is high now, and US markets are dumping stock after CES new stuff just came out, so bargains can be had , just watch out fro shonks and radios with features that wont work here. and shipping costs. no GST or duty on things under 1000 bucks either or buy OZ your call , save oz jobs if you can afford it

Iphone cables are pretty cheap, they can output video, rca left and right, and charger in one class D amps arent real digital, only the transistor switching is, not the input from RCA. , saves size, heat, and sounds fine for your application a cap on the tweeter to x over around 6khz -8khz depending on the tweeter, some can go lower to 4.5khz on the 4" vifa soft dome or titanium models a cap on the mid to block the bass around 120 -300hz depending on mid size, let it roll off naturally , f3 db is about 4khz -7khz on a mid , keeps it simple, cheaper and more dependable use poly caps only and iron core coil for woofer to keep it sounding clean and a poly cone single 4ohm VC woofer with coil xover around 80-100hz, 8 inch is fine , or even reverse isobaric 6" in a double reflex box for even more DB and bass control you can get fancy and build a zobel network but not required the ohm load wont drop below 2 ohms in most cases running mixed mono on the amp. stereo to the fronts 4-8ohm , and bridged to 4ohm woofer ohm load at each freq wont drop lower then 2 ohms so just about any 2 channel 2 ohm stable amp can do it. just buy a small form factor, class D if you can to save power and size/heat mount the amp in the port tunnel to keep the air moving over it , just take that into account when building it to protect it . the main box could be boot box size ? and front stereo speakers the size of a small stack of DVD's depending on how crazy you want to fabricate something you can build the front boxes in a horn config front so the throw is further and the DB is louder ? better for outdoor or big rooms use ? the sub port build it slotted not tube shape so crap can be poured out if it gets in it ? you could mount the amp in the port side so the air moves over it ? just account for it when building the specs. and mount with silicone rubber feet so the vibration doesnt end its life early , it would be cool and protected from the elements pretty well , unless you had a kid dump sand or water in the box ? plus the bandpass box is the best of both worlds, the driver back is sealed= nice smoothe/tight/fast bass and protection the other side slot ported for added 3-6db @1watt and a natural bass filter , you can run no coil in a bandpass box but I would to stop all voices from coming out of the port dont forget sand on the tweeters will be perm stuck on the cones. the neo magnets are much stronger and will capture the iron in the sand , a titanuim dome or poly would be best outside. a kevlar , silk, soft dome sounds nice but not practical outdoors even with marine ply I would still epoxy coat the system ? you can mix colour in the epoxy so it cant scratch thru to see wood. like paint would and could be polished with car wax to a show finish ?, I wouldnt use ply anyway its too heavy, can sound bad if your not careful, cost to much, you could do cheaper hi density MDF epoxy coated it sounds nice, or even a natural wood solid, besides pine . maple , birch, gum with a tight grain no blemish wood if you want it pretty ? fiberglass or exotic kelvar even better , wilder shapes and stronger . carbon fiber is 7 times stronger then steel , but can resonate ring if your not careful with the internal construction, allows for exact fit of parts to make the package smaller my old r34 test box is carbon a few layers of it and you can hit it with a big ball peen hammer full force, without any damage at all. ? I love hadning the hammer to people to try to break it , wont even shatter the epoxy on the face of it and look here for goodies parts express

all your requirements can be had with ease, I have a active audiocontrol xover think its 18db roll off you can buy cheap if you go that route, and its tiny ? just sitting in a box now palm size unit, 1 amp of current to run it and output is around 9 volts I think on RCA's for clean signal to amp if you buy clever and construct well you can get more bass from a good 6" then a generic sealed box 8" battery use a 12v emergency lighting battery, small fits in the palm of your hand run a pair of those in parrellel for longer run time same voltage , off ebay I bought one for under 20 bucks new . no gas to vent either, just keep charger cool and decent power inverter to prop up the voltage while charging and charge the battery a battery charger can do it if you have a smart one, I found one for 30 bucks at stupid cheap clearance bin normal cost about 150 why even buy or use a deck, use the ipod for everything, you can get old 3g iphone and run the radio off the internet, and rip music and bluetooth or wireless send to the iphone. or use wi fi. then you can have video as well ??? your fidelity wont be perfect but just fine for a boom box setup.and no sand to enter the cd slot. and crust up ?? even make phone calls from it and track it if stolen too ?? buy a tiny class D 2 channel, cd cover size now. and uses less current . soundstream makes a clean one cheap, so do a lot of others companies run the amp in bridge mono on the sub and stereo on the others, mixed mono setup , the ohm load with coils , caps will be around 2-4 ohms at all freq so the amp would be safe from toasting why do you want 12db roll off, on crossover if passive, its over kill on a boom box just eats up the power more when your not running it in perfect location to take advantage of the roll off anyhome ? run a coil on the sub, in bandpass box, that sits with the main unit, and splits in the satelite speakers with cap and coil 6db roll off or factory xovers the box would be smaller then a back of groceries and get loud as hell still, clean sound and less parts that need power custom made carbon fiber/kevlar box and its light and stong as hell easy as piss to make,, gee I have all the parts here I should do that haha PM Me I have extensive knowledge of home audio etc. THX//Dolby theatre as well.

what does the car have now , anything ? depends on if you want to go further , after the 1200 , if so it changes the plan a lot from scratch and not including labour buy a double din deck , unless you have a pocket or cherish the little radios, stear clear of sony IMO the quality has slipped on the car audio stuff , Pioneer, Clarion, Kenwood , Alpine, are my first choices then the rest buy some good splits, , Pioneer, Kenwood, Jaycar, Morel low end, Blaupunkt has some decent ones for 99 bucks I think, so thats about half of the money already ? give or take the brands and features and install items buy a sub , 10 or 12 inch, , , depending on your skills you can build a box , or buy prebuilt, but they sound average compared to custom box. buy amp, depends on what your ultimate goals are , but start with sub amp, run fronts off deck power for now in most cases. Option Audio has some decent cheap amps, fusion, Boss mid series, Soundstream has some , Orion Cobalt, Rockford, Jaycar old heatsink type. US Audio is ok, on the cheap. as well as kenwood, pioneer, clarion, just no sony on anything that would eat up the rest of your budget easy, dont forget 4ga amp wire kit as well, most mono amps draw a fair bit of power. skip the back speakers at this point or use factory faded way out if you must your kinda in a weird price point for a whole system unless you go cheap. and nasty . you can do it but you must hagle, and shop wisely to fit the price point and if you want to upgrade later dont buy the wrong stuff the first time around sound deaden the front doors, always !!!!! so budget that too, makes a huge difference in skylines

does it have a remote or is it on the keyhead ? could be a few things most likely the remote battery is low, or button worn flat inside. worth changing anyway, spend a buck a photo would help to identify the alarm or locking setup ? blown fuse on door actuators blown fuse on alarm or bad connection no signal to brain on alarm , cut off antenna wire or bad reception is it in valet mode , solid red light on car led or blinking ? the alarm battery in the siren has nothing to do with it. could be actuators slipping on the rods , no idea since you didnt mention what car its in ?

black r33 wtih gold wheels body kit in seaford, dark hair chick driver silver m series stag same spot , stock as a rock 7 digit rego pearl stag with white writing ever night , must be on the way home goes past my place and the noise alerts me to the RB coming..lol ferrari 599 in black, followed by a maserati in black in dinga one of them lives a few houses from me. someone famous from what I heard on the grapevine Red R35 esply

ashley at classic performace in hackam and has a dyno as well ? if the car is a local someone on here might know the history a bit ? but would be best left to pm not public thrashing someone

take a look at something like this, you can imput everything into it and output to your screens as desired , this one is different from mine but its also newer , but works the same you need to find out what video out the hks uses, PAL, SECAM, NTSC etc http://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/AVS441.aspx

push the plug in then push the pin down. a small flat screw driver can push the pin down while your other hand pulls , it should come out after you push it in first, gives it that extra room to push the pin all the way down , the metal clip on the trim ring should be taken off , it breaks really easy and once broken they can be impossible or expensive to find . just for safety sake hint the pin is just like my photos only a bigger plug

depending on the alarm , most pro's wont touch it. they only work on name brand stuff in most cases. eblow or made in china no support alarms are a nightmare and most wont work beyond a few months unless its a name brand imported name brand installed by DIY and your warranty is void and you can run across issues with insurance also , only authorized dealers can install the product and warranty it . jack88 might be interested ? and just because a shop installed it doesnt mean they do it right either, if the shop wont let you see the wiring jobs walk away . slap happy is not how you do alarms all joints need solder and shrink wrap or taped with care. no exceptions , connections fail otherwise , and JDM cars use a different wiring in most cases , so diagrams off the net must be confirmed , even dealer diagrams can be wrong or based on US car models that look the same on the outside so beware. that toyota is one for instance Skyline R series cars not so much until the R35 they use two different wiring setups from US to JDM

no other details , I felt it was odd look from the other car and no it wasnt cronics car I know what it looks like. sorry

crazy readings are coming from the ohm load , resistance changing, most likely a bad connection or solder joint , if the gauge powers up fine then check the sendor/sensor wire like I explained. is your gauge a stepper motor driven gauge ? some of those are so the voltage or ohm load would be more precises at each step , or temp no idea what happened and this is typing on the wrong side now.. grrrrr

damn we used to just pick up the phone and call clarion,, blaupunkt to unlock the deck with dealer id and sn# handy . did they change the setup , havent touched one of either in many years. can I say ryan your mod shopping list of items in your profile is a theft waiting to happen, I would advise agaist the exact details of what the car has in public fourms . my advice to you , take it or leave it

ground loop , is a bad rca for sure , the shield is floating the ground from the deck to the amp, that breaks the connection the noise you pick up is from the varied resistance in the ground points from the front to back of the car. the outside the car rca should have fixed that unless it was a bad rca at the deck or inside it , you might just have a seat bolt pinching it down, a common problem, just cough up the cash and buy a decent new rca, no more hand me downs,,,lol 20 bucks should cover it. if you read the link I sent in details it explains ground loops and noises, this guy is the guru of noise, older then me even..haha http://www.davidnavone.com/ good reading when his links are fixed to articles I have this book in usa in moms garage,,, I should get it over lite reading for the people who want to know more about car audio http://www.davidnavone.com/as2k/autosound_techbriefs_thebook.htm

depends on the gauge, since I dont have the instructions and most are made in china, is that from just jap ? do you have the install instruction, that would be helpful to see the wires connection point, you need 12v at the gauge rear , most likely a red wire with fuse, check the fuse as well, or if the power is from something else to the gauge check that fuse is ti blown ? ie cig lighter fuse you need to make sure the ground, prob black or maybe green as a ground colour , some multi meters have a ohm beep test noise, use that put on ground wire and bare metal on the car , pin switch screw heads, or the ignition barrel sits at ground , you should hear a beep if the ground is good, turn on the parking lights does the beep stop, bad ground to wrong wire then you have the sensor wire, is that just one wire ? prob is, if you hold the ohm resitance part of the multimeter on that wire with the other to ground you can check the ohm load while cold, jot it down then try it after a few min of runnning , jot it down, runt he engine till warm, jot it down, if the numbers go either up or down in order that should be working like 10 ohms cold, 30ohms warm, 50ohms hot or vise versa, then i would say the sensor is working and sending the right signal but you have another issues with above items you might have another wire, for lights, dimmer once you take the ohm load at engine side, also check the gauge side same wire , is the ohm load close to the same engine side on each test if no ohm load , then you have a broken wire or bad connection between the gauge and engine. how is it plugged in exactly, is it piggybacked on to the harness factory wire or stand alone sensor sender ? it sounds like it just bridges a gap between the factory sensors and your dash wires is that right ? it should be fairly easy to suss , think 3 maybe 4 wires tops, you need power, ground and signal/sensor wire , and some have a illumination wire but doubt it on the newer ones. I noticed you said , GT with GTT engine, which is a different harness isnt it ? pretty sure without pulling out the diagram it is. just curious does everthing else in the car still work, no other non working items, blown fuses ? worse case is pull the gauge under warranty return it, or if no warranty , power it from a few wires to the battery to see if it powers up minus the harness ? do you get anything now? lights at all ?