Carbon 34

which part of USA luke? there is a place on sir bradman drive that runs freight logistics from the west coast of USA . its not cheap or fast . you must palletize the engine on metric pallet then weigh it, a plastic pallet saves you the trouble of spraying it for bugs on arrival in customs. I have a few connections but most dont come to adelaide only east coast then you have to ship from brissy to adelaide, the one above goes the whole way from west coast of USA to Adelaide

did the siren get wet ? battery backup sirens dont like water. even steam off the engine kills em. THEY STILL GO OFF BUT WONT STOP. ive had sirens come out of the box, and die within a week, if its been on the shelf uncharged for a long time when it goes off I take it only the siren is going off, not flashing lights , or making the car die ? last time I ran across this symtom, it was the siren, bent door pin switch with bad connection. rusty behind it. does the alarm detect any problems, or do you get normal beeps, and flashing lights on arm disarm things to check, grounds on battery, power on battery, does the car have a decent battery that holds a charge, do you get a charging voltage ? check grounds on alarm, switched power, constant power on alarm. is the siren loud or sound slightly muted most likely a siren not seeing 12v or ground from battery and goes off because of it. it thinks someone cut you siren off the car. so it goes off. but it also sounds like you have another issue, that wont let the alarm disarm properly if you have any flashing lights etc. crusty pin switches are common , dome lights not working, ?? if the installer connected the wrong side of the wire on the pin switch it wont work when the dome light is blown ? some of your symtoms can be from a hot engine, as it cools the sensor picks up the creak and groan of the car cooling. ? also some crims hit your car by hand over and over till you get sick of it and dont set your alarm again , dont fall for it cause your car spot will be empty when you return

(remove battery power from car before starting if your unsure of yourself to save a airbag or short out ) well have fun on the doors,lol depending on the brand of wire, outside casing thickness 12ga wire even 14ga can be a challenge, there is a punch out on the door jamb side plastic to feed it thru into the main loom. and if you pop the boot off the door side, just make sure you get it back on properly. you most likely will have to cut off some old tape from the factory and maybe slit the boot a tiny bit to get wire thru it. a stiff wire feed helps a lot. old solid 1 piece ford antennas with the top ball cut off work a treat , they can punch thru and stiff enough but still flexable to bend . just tape the other side casue they will shatter a window if you let go of the end while under flex. a fish tape from bunnings works too. (used for fishing wires in walls housing) silicone or talc powder helps heaps to get the wire thru without binding . but its not a fast process . the wires come out in the top of the drivers side kickpanel, so lots of cuts and scraped knuckles ahead..haha and make sure the wires go below and close to the inside panel and out of the path of the window regulator , use zip ties and test before putting door panels back on. or the regulator linkage will cut it in half easy option 2 punch a new hole in door, and jamb with drill and use a grommet boot (same used for power door locks- aftermarket) not reccomended since it can rust, can pinch if done wrong , and still not easy to do if you have the front fenders off the R34 its easy as hell to pass wires in the car. lol power wire is easier, follow the throttle cable back to the firewall , in that corner you will see a goldish "cadnium" plated bracket , remove bracket, 10mm bolt i think . behind it is the access to the grommet for power into the cabin. once again a fish tape or stiff wire will be the go, you need to make it arc slighty , cut a small hole in the grommet, with snap knife, pass the wire thru it while taped to the fish tape or ? on the end. use care, now go take the molding off the drivers door sill. and kick panel that cover the fuse box. . you will see the wire come out behind the fuse box area just dont punch thru anything else..lol run the wires away from fuse box, gas pedal, etc. under carpet , under the seat has channels for wire, use them. same for the back seat if its a coupe. stear clear of bolts on seat, seatbelts, yellow wires (airbag or seatbelt tensioner) stay away from all computers in the car and as far from factory wires as you can , cross at 90degree angles , duct/gaffer tape the wire to the floor so it doesnt wander and remember if its huge dont put it in the wear path of the floor , passengers can feel the lump and it will wear thru the carpet where they put shoes. and you dont want to feel it under your gas pedal foot either. , use zip ties to keep away from all pedals I have 2 0Ga wires run thru mine so you can do it with care, and dont forget to fuse the wire near the factory engine fusebox, no further then that. DONT PUT POWER ON THE WIRE YOU JUST RAN until its hooked up on the other end, or a fire will follow!!! the fuse protects the car, not the amps do not exceed the total amps current draw on the fuse rating. beware of putting too small of wire for the current load. 4ga wire will handle a max of 120-150 amps but not at 40c+ degrees and continuous it could overheat ? another hint its easier to power pass wire from the inside to the outside once the fish tape wire is inside the cabin, pulling a coil of 0 GA thru the firewall is a shorter path to the battery then the boot. wire is heavy and can pull the factory grommet out, which is near impossile on some cars to reinstall..haha use silicone spray or talc to lube the wiring after you have it taped to the fish tape and keep the lube on the parts of the wire you want to pull thru. clean off with done, silicone can be bad for paint, , or ruin a detailed car. have fun, if you need more help let me know. cheers

FYI .you could have done it and had it behind the panel, there is plenty of airspace and you wouldnt loose any boot. 12" subs fit no cutting of steel bet that dash is a bugger on sunny days reflecting off the windscreen but overall a better attempt then some of others in the audio section. IMO

$100,000 in this RX7 13b mild tune on 15psi makes 500hp at the wheels , needs a triple rotor lol

must be the heritage of EVO's in Rally racing , they just love the dirt...haha its just funny cause you see it flying around the corner behind the GTR then a huge dust cloud .. dont worry pete even the stig bush bashes some cars. lol its all fun and games unless you hit the wall anyway.

ADR rules say you need a vented battery inside a car, hence the tube. but AGM/ spiral cells /gel batteries are sealed and most can be mounted upside down if needed they dont need a vent ditch the jap connections, you be much happier and the options for battieries are much greater pain in the butt but worth it over time

that is dodgy and not recommended , a cheap switch will fail or be found easy. do it right

you could buy or make MDF spacers to mount them or just cut the plastic bit of the rear deck and redrill the holes if you want the JL grills showing. depends on how hacked your rear deck is to start with. its a good time to recover the deck in black carpet looks way better then greyish crap. 3m spray glue and some unbacked speaker carpet , razor to recut the holes , dont forget the seat belt holes on the ends and baby bolts need remounted defect without them. grrrrr dont cut the metal in the deck, its a structual defect

black r32 no wing on the esply just now heading towards pt willunga

blue r34 gtr on the dinga esply black ferrari 599 same spot

it has power to the yellow and red wires all the time if its aftermarket head unit, yellow is constant, red is switched accesory or last case a bad drivers door power timer, which never shuts off the power(most are disconnected from compliance upon arrival but they do exist) does the drivers window still work after thekey is removed and door opened and closed ?

sounds like you have a broken wire on the main harness into the car. or main fuse/fusable link fried. possible ground issues as well and a good possibilty of a fried diode pack in the alternator. get a volt meter, battery voltage engine off battery voltage if the engine is running if you can without jumpers on another car/ battery start pack is ok check the grounds on the frame to battery, and to engine are the connections tight and clean on the battery. can you get a load test done on the battery ? check fuses and links to the main power harness , the jump start may have killed them. ? you have mutiple problems but start with the battery and some voltage readings . a full charge doenst mean it has "current/ AMP" drawing power under load it might be dead. but charges to 12 volts still

the best part is petes silver EVO flying off the road behind the gtr at mallala...haha good work Shane/crew

white stag with stock r33 wheels on south rd seaford yesterday "kazza #" 4 dr r33 on south rd black r33 with 5 spoke grey wheels silver lip . morphett vale yesterday today blue R34 GTR on the esply in dinga dark grey stag same spot white r33 at sunset same spot

think i saw big fella in the blue stag at seadord shops, ? got a wave while taking your parking spot

Like before price range ? amount of space you want to loose ? what kind of box do you have now ? sealed , ported, factory , generic , approx how big is it ? sub model ? so I can see the Thiele parameters what kind of music do you listen too mostly ? how loud ? and what source is it most of the time, MP3 , radio, CD ? some music lends itself to a different box , and same with loud volumes, safer for the woofer what head unit type are you running, ? do you know the specs for line out voltage ? because if your amp needs high level inputs or converter that will make a difference ? I take it this is in a R31 4 dr ? do the front speakers use a amp or deck power ? without answering these questions its hard to help you find options , just throwing a 2000 dollar amp on it wont make it sound better if its in free air, or the deck has convertors and playing MP3 at low bit rates this might be as simple as a few bucks worth of poly fill, and reseal the woofer, change the crossover point or face the box another direction to make it sound better ?

330 cca is way too small 550cca is min if your grounds and clamps are good/clean terminals a full size battery with new terminals converting from the little jap ones is way better, no batteries that take water, grrrr old crap low voltage will cause low kw power or could damamge your engine from misfires . cca is the american current rating for cold climates -cold cranking amperage, worthless unless you know batteries.... mine can deliver over 2400 amps in one hit. if you want comparision if my car wiring could handle it check the water in it, put INOX in the battery it helps , clean and tighten your terminals, baking soda in a paste with old toothbrush stops acid , DO NOT GET BAKING SODA INSIDE BATTERY, , rinse with a cup full of fresh water offf paint, and battery, stops rust corrosion from under the battery as well, larger ones fit , just take the tray out, and use some rubber under it, from clark rubber

it depends on all the thing i asked before? and what kind of box the subs in how loud do you want it? do you have the subs model or ohm load, how many voice coils? yada yada yada, as above are you running a amp on the front speakers or deck power? kenwood is decent cheap amp ? the new sony speakers are rated around 1500watts "PEAK" power and around 400 rms, for anything more then a few seconds in the wrong box or clipping will kill the woofer ? what are you trying to do exactly ? louder? deeper ? clearer ?tighter bass ? it might be a waste of money to drop a big amp on a poor sub in a generic box , mounted wrong or x-over wrong ?

read the car audio section, a current discussion exists already

I have this on my GTT, not the best photo from my phone, its powered/amplified and for Digital Radio and TV

powering what ? a 900 watt sub from jensen or amp from jensen ?? the sony is a small step up at best ? it wouldnt be my first choice for a budget sub amp.

to do it right it takes a long time, chris is right , some alarms can day takes or even a week if you go totally crazy . Im not kidding a week when you do some custom shite and hide the lot, even nissan wouldnt know it existed by looking into the harness and the miles of wires would baffle anyone. dont forget deception works well while the crims look at what looks like a alarm is a empty box multi layered security is best and even a tow truck can't get thru it. and dont forget home security as well ?

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depends on what you want to run it on ? how loud you want it? cost range? brand loyalty? size?space you have what ohm load your running it at ? how much do you want to spend on wiring upgrades and alternators, battteries ? do you want class, A, AB, D, Hybrid ? why mono ? you can do stereo amps as well ? do you want sound quality, and control of your woofer ? or just bass what size woofer, what box is it in ? a 50 dollar 1500 watt mono block is nasty and 2000+ dollars would one be fine but Im sure as you can see you need to answer more questions to make a informed decision and be happy with it why 1500 watts, ? RMS or max power ? real world ? good power for a mono block, is 24,000 watts at 1 ohm. but you battery load would be retarded