Carbon 34

depends on the size/gauge of the wire and the combined amp current draw. and how hot the wire gets, some degrades quickly and can create a fire hazard.and of course the fuse at the battery will need updating as well if it can be ????? 0Ga about 200-300amps but really varies with brands and manufacturing, lots of plated alloy floating around, that can and will melt with 200amps thru it on a hot day. 4ga can handle about 120-150 amps max. on a good day, brand etc. 8ga about 80 amps max depending on your current amp brand/specs etc , you can run it bridged mono and stereo at the same time, if your rear speakers can go on the front channel or run thru a passive crossover(external to the amp) so most modern amps can run 4 speakers and a sub off two channels or 4channels ,but must be 2ohm stable. because the amp wont see lower impedance with crossovers. in most cases it would be at least 2 ohms load from 20hz -20khz and way more in certain freq. without a zobel filter and impedance matching crossovers= really expensive to build from jaycar parts, cheaper to amp the other amp the sub would need to be 4ohm single voice coil or similar ohm load from mutiple coils , with aprox a 6.4mh coil in series with the positive output wire on the sub. if you need a wiring chart I can dig one up, pm me your amp brand/model first.

Shite, hope your ok Jenna, that doesnt look like a love tap. what hit you ?

call phatt audio customs, speak to sam or brett about it, there in braeside ?

check your cig lighter fuse. and dome light fuse. ? , don't hack anymore you could set off airbags if your car has one still. check the threads for the right wiring diagrams for R33, and solder/tape the wires, then zip tie at the very least. crappy crimp connectors fail , and twist and tape is a fire waiting to happen. or call a installer to fix it up properly ???

give chris rogers off here a ring, he sells Clarion might cut you a deal? Chris Rogers on SAU Clarion is more dependable IMO. and sounds better

sad to hear this in the industry, skyline dash parts on the R34 scratch easy as hell and can't be fixed properly without replacing or recovering the dash. I've inquired from everyone in OZ and USA to fix mine properly and due to the construction of the dash material it doesn't look right once a dodgy fix up is done. the installer should have used many towels and taped them up to protect the dash. the razor sharp corners of the cage holding the radio and the way the wires unplug makes it really hard to not lay the cage sideways to get to all the plugs, even more so on the cars with sat/nav/tv . lots more annoying plugs but the installer should make effort to sort the dash to your happiness. or replace it under his biz insurance. .. ?? or consumer affairs complaint if you can document it ? sourcing one without scratches is going to be hard. doubt nissan still makes them.and most cars in oz get scratched from compliancing muppets who put in the FM band expander. mine was perfect on arrival, then it went for compliancing, they" threw" in a band expander for free but chewed up the dash in the process . didn't ask for one but got it anyhow. grrrrrrrr its a tough battle to win, without prior photos of your dash ? just be glad its not a wood trim off a rolls royce in burlwood, crack that clear coat or trim and your farked , the hand matched wood cost more then a r34 to replace ? you can do a dodgy fix to improve the looks of the scratch depending on how bad or deep it is. but still looks like dogs balls in the sunlight. the grain of the dash is hard to find as well, so matching it is a bugger. found some close but not perfect. just remember accidents do happen, so let them try to make you happy before going off the deep end and making this worse if you pm me the shop name I might be able to help if I know them, don't slander anyone on SAU

supply and demand of the population and lots of people sell the same products so they have price wars all the time. the retail market is pretty cutthroat in USA on car audio, but the installation is another storey, you get what you pay for. here in OZ and same in USA. most chain stores aren't going to give you a box designed for your gear, just one off the show room floor. I had a boss a lot time ago (20 years ago) in usa who was on the verge of bankruptcy and so cheap that he asked us to solder the cut off wire bits together from past installs and use them for new alarms/radio installs etc. dodgy as hell. and you guested it he is out of biz now. . so use someone to install you know is going to be around more then a few years. .. might cost a tiny bit more but the quality of work is normally 1000 times better. if they wont show you past work, walk away. they should be proud to show you jobs. and have passion in the 12v and dont be afraid to buy local, ask for a discount you might just be suprised ? keeps oz in biz ??? my 2c worth of wisdom

depends one who your buying from, you can get burned on shippping, and transshipping is voiding your warranty from day one. if you fry it , you will have to ship it back to usa in most cases to the authorixed dealer. lots of dealers say they have rights to sell equipment but don't , which = no warranty and you spending a mint on shipping but things like sounddeadener is so much cheaper even shipped it comes out way cheaper for the good stuff.and you won't need a warranty on that kinda stuff. pm me the shop your considering and what gear, I know a lot of audio dealers in US or can find out for you if there dodgy or not . also watch out for substitution clauses on items out of stock, they can sell you alpine, then ship a hifonics if the alpine is out of stock. if the prices/specs are similar . don't buy any DVD players from USA or video items unless you can convert your items from NTSC to PAL . and the sat. systems don't work properly even with the right maps from OZ.tech issus pn some units. and anything that uses household power(power supplies for car shows ), is prob not going to work here, usa is 110volts and only some items convert to this power with a switch/. tell your shipper to split your order cost per box to less then 1k but charge your shipping based upon the total cost. it will save you duty and shipping costs. they wont ship with "gift " on the customs invioce so dont bother asking them. goods from china direct will do that but not usa the USA is in serious trouble with lots of biz failures so beware of "fly by night" dealers(.they disappear over night with your money, and CC details ) never wire transfer money to USA or anywhere for that matter, unless you know who it is on the other end , a reputable dealer won't ask you to wire money ever ask them to charge your items the day you buy them, if the dollar slides overnight, which it can do the cost will jump , sometimes in your favour but not usaully only ship registered mail, where you sign for the goods and insurance is mandatory , don't ship without it don't fall for the fedex shipment, or overnight, the items will get here only as fast as a jet flies and fullfilment boxes them up. expect 5-9 days on most htings to OZ once shipped to major cities. hope that helps..lol

guess I'll be hated too, for buying lambo doors soon.....lol along with all the body kit etc... it won't be the same plain car anymore.lol but no bags or 24's ever I promise note the r34 doors suck, they close automatic on your leg most of the time. I almost ground a notch in the arm deal to stop it ..lol

it will move, when you drive spirited or get hit it turns into a missle. example on a defensive driving track day in my work car, a 1.5 litre half empty water bottle in my camry boot , tore the folding rear seats down while latched while on the ABS brake thru the cones test. now imagine a box, amp, speaker, hunk of wood, ripping the rear plate open on the r34 and landing on your lap or the side of the car open like a can opener. I'll dig up some photos today.

sorry date is wrong, its the sat not sunday. and I won't be attending this year. the show is pretty cool if anyone attends, and they had models last time...lol

do 6.5 on a custom baffle. sound deaden the doors at the same time

the hole near the brake booster side on that fender corner, where the other wires go, its a slight bugger to do but even my 0 gauge went thru with some silicone spray help..lol comes out near the fuses panel /gas pedal under the seat frame support not near boot release. it pulls the carpet a lot and then under the steel frame on the back seat not over it. follow the rear water line for the rear wiper. then it depends one where your amps at. a few ways into the rear .

Black Stag , heading towards lonsdale, on osullys beach rd. busted giving it some boot behind a black ford ute was at the lights watching you, I wont advertise his rego . but will give him shite next time I'm at his work..lol silver r32 gtr , south rd same area , dark colour wheels. but clean

Yeah I have the plans , I'll send them but confirm the opening size before building it, since I dont' have a R31 sitting in fornt of me..lol need height and width betweeen the arms of the boot lid, and depth from window lip to the seat back top. the box would be the easiest route , sell off the sealed one and build a ported one the right size. then buy a bigger amp down the line, you can never have too much bass...haha

think Jenna - JRM is looking for some ??

I see some issues in the audio side but won't bother to comment , except safety issues - in the fuel system you should have used a right angle fitting on the top of the surge tank , right now all the weight of the stainless hose is put into a alloy fitting welded on. just waiting to crack and spill fuel, and a few other spots that could be secured better in the fuel system, better strain relief from vibration and vent line to fresh air in case of a leak. a single drip, can stink the car up bad a high pressure fuel fire is not a good thing but improvement over last attempt.

your sub is designed for PORTED boxes. not sealed your sealed box MAX DB is just under 115db at 20-100HZ, the bass is very flat and prob sounds horrible judging from the graph it ran. the freq, you get at your windscreen is 186hz based upon your numbers, so your bass is more MID-BASS when your in the front seats but at 7 metres from your car windows down the bass most likely sounds much better. shame you can't drive that far from the car. that puts it at 50hz at 4 metres you would have a big boost at 80hz in other words build a ported box, face the driver towards the rear of the car, as well as the port on that side as well and you should be a lot better , deeper sounding bass. and power the sub with more power, still use poly fill on all the walls except the front in the ported box, but spray glue it on. don't compress it, just fluffy handfuls is fine. hope this helps if you need help on box design I can forward the plans to you. this is the size of the optimized ported box. MAX DB for this box is about 120db at max power but less bass in the 45HZ region. Driver Properties Name: few-12 Type: Standard one-way driver Company: Fusion Car Audio & Security Comment: Encounter series No. of Drivers = 1 Fs = 28 Hz Qms = 4.027 Vas = 123.9 liters Xmax = 11 mm Qes = 0.249 Z = 4 ohms Pe = 200 watts ----------------------------------------- Box Properties Name: Type: Vented Box Shape: Prism, square (optimum) Vb = 45.36 liters Fb = 32.6 Hz QL = 6.873 F3 = 23.62 Hz Fill = normal No. of Vents = 1 Vent shape = round Vent ends = one flush design 2 MAX DB about 124db at full power using the current amp at aprox 45hz Box Properties Name: Type: Vented Box Shape: Prism, square (optimum) Vb = 43.68 liters total 46 litre's Fb = 32.6 Hz QL = 6.873 F3 = 30.43 Hz Fill = normal No. of Vents = 1 Vent shape = round Vent ends = two flared Dv = 76 mm Lv = 243.6 mm

if you look behind the trim panel, where the jack is at, the space is just right to fit a 12" sub in a fiberglass box. you can use the little tabs on the metal to mount it. and if desired remove it for track days. it can fit completely behind the factory panel and a custom grill made to hide it. or show it off your choice. I had mine there but now use a bandpass box which uses that area and some of the space outside the panel, ported thru the rear deck holes. the space is deep enough for most subs and if they work in a sealed box your all good. which the rockfords do not sure if I still have any old photos , but can show you a photo of the size hole when removed.

mount the amp under the rear shelf, on a wooden baffle, either on show or behind the wood so you can't see it mount the sub in a custom box on the passenger side , where the jack is. mold a box to fit the space, move the jack to the middle of the spare tyre. all can be hidden and spare comes out without any other mods. nice tight bass, . eblow box, works but takes up too much space and sounds generic . you can fit the sub behind the factory panel if you do a custom box. and add another on the drivers side if you desire later. or mount the amp behind the rear panel on the drivers side , totally hidden !!! no metal cutting /mods to mount it

black V35 , rego GT V35 near noarlunga. very clean car with interesting wheels red R34 gtt near states rd, no wave , no wing either dark grey, r34 4dr, asian chick driver, dent in the rear panel, see her often but no waves either. some old bat back her holden with tow ball right thru the door of another car, in the beach rd woolies car park,,, nice work grannie. way to look behind you and back straight up , the big thud was your car wiping out the side of a car passing behind you. cause you had just parked in a space they thought it would be safe to pass you..... go figure 10 witness's at least, not one who would give the girl in the smashed car a number as a witness, farking loosers piss me off. I'm sure if the tables were turned they would want witness's

don't go cheap, unless your buying a old junkyard dog for security ? a cheap alarm will cause headaches and lack of use because of fase alarms, and use a good installer too. ??? my 2c worth

You didn't mention the exact areopro box, some I'm assuming this one Aeropro if you notice its not a litre, so it would be a very poor sounding box, if you have the sealed version , take 1 bag of loose polyfill stuffing from spotlight or ? and lightly fill the box after carefully removing the sub. your not looking to fill it tight, just handfuls chcucked into it , use 1 bag full roughly about 7-8 bucks I think. don't fill it so full the sub frame hits the stuffing, this will trick the box into thinking its over a litre in size. you could also invert the sub to gain a little more box space but risk hitting the back of the speaker with crap in the boot ? you must have a good airtight seal ? as you can see below a ported box is bigger but the sound would be a bit better, slightly louder as well. reccomended box sizes Ported Box Fusion EN-SW120 Volume (litres) 48.28 Volume (cu.ft.) 1.705 Port diameter " 76.2mm / 3" Port length 225.3mm / 8 - 9 " Tuned frequency (Hz) 33.0 Sealed Box Volume (litres) 28.58 Volume (cu.ft.) 1.009 Tuned frequency (Hz) 53.9 if your running both the crossovers on the deck and amp, it will cause phase issues, try running the amps - sub crossover at 80-100HZ and no radio xover, but sub out on.depending on which rca your using ? with both on it can sound muddy bass. along with a small box it would lack , any hit and run the front deck speakers on hpf to block the bass from the fronts speakers, if you can set the freq on them to 120-160hz. the speakers natural roll off will still play below that but not much. and safe the distortion at high levels. oops sorry that amp is only 300 @ 4ohms, , but the matching one to yours is the same only a green case. you can use the other old amp on the front speakers ? would make a huge difference in loudnesss tonight I'll plot your car out for max , bass , using your numbers, out of time now..lol hope this helps a bit. cheap fix is loose polyfill

Oh , that is a problem, whyallla is a bit of a far out . if you hit up Simon at Ministry of Bass (sponsor for SAU) troy sent ya or John at Marvey Tech in adelaide , or GT autosound. if you get stuck I can find someone else, but you will have to ship them from Adelaide or drive in. made that drive a few times. it sucks...lol but got ot see a train crash right after it happened out of whyalla. got some nice photos of a major stack of train and iron ore...lol

that is the same part and a/c unit the series 2 GTT come with that have the tv option. if that helps you can find some in carbon fiber from japan but they still won't fit some radios without a few tiny mods, to make them look perfect fit you can buy them from wreckers, or import. or make your own easy., might be able to order one from nissan still ? if you want to pay a premium and shipping from japan that radio could be mounted cleaner , so the gap would go away. or just drop in a double din radio ?