Carbon 34

yes. where are you located ? makes it easier to find someone to help you ? what brand of subs, model #

yes my money is on dead cell or weak one, and or corrosion on the terminals, loose bolts holding clamps. voltage regulators fry when the cell shorts, or jump starts gone wrong. they can go the other way too, and overvoltage the car as well, which kills the ecu, battery, fuseable links, relays, etc. and other lovely items. high rpm tends to do that one, my bridgeport RX7 killed off many alternators some lasted 1 rev to redline before death . just a good thing it was a weber not fuel injected car.

a sound proof car is fine, bass is non directional below certain freq. you will still feel it shake the car, you can vent it it behind the rear guards between the boot and rear seat sides, if your creative. or remove the rear speakers and replace the grills again. then you will hear it fine. my car is even more soundproof then that , I moved my rear speakers mids and tweeters over and ported (tuned properly)the bass thru the factory holes right from the sub box. so if your creative you can do it with ease. notice the rear deck is now fiberglass molding of a factory one then modified . but no metal was cut in the car for any of the system. so not defectable !!! 6x9s suck, and cutting the holes is a structual defect !!!

if its showing 14.4 running and stays that high, your battery is farked most likely , the current holding on the battery is gone.( interenal corrsion of the plates ) your battery might say 12v off, but when you crank it it's dead, NO AMPS (Current ) or corrsion on the terminals ? loose bolts at the terminals? if you still have one of those little ass battery from japan , bin it and buy a real one . DO NOT WHACK YOUR ALTERNATOR, it could only just damage it !!!! the old school hitting the starter fix doesn't work on it you can spray it out with electronics cleaner IF its oiled up like hell, but beware , some cleaners can melt plastic /paint or ruin the alternator is used wrong or while running. ground your battery with an additional 4ga cable to the bracket bolts holding the alternator and zip tie the wires to keep them from hitting anything, your car will thank you and charging will be much better. power electrons goes from negative to positive, not the otherway around like common thinking sugguests. the grounds for 90% of everything in the rear of the GTT are behind the rear seat back on both sides connected in a star fashion. doubt its a ground unless at the battery or something new installed wrong ?

nice rats nest , chris..lol suprised the car worked at all.hahaha turbo timers= defect. alarms that have built in turbo timers= defect if used /hooked up Iphone app that starts the car/ etc = defect as well.(for now) just sit in the car for 30-60 seconds, dont fang it then shut it off.

black stag with a kit, maybe like ruby pulling into stupid cheap darlington, had black wheels on it. yesterday today a silver r33 booting it up from HJ shiedow park towards tafe silver 5 spoke wheels yellow R34 gtt, on beach rd. nismo trolley wing,

yeah I hear that !!!!!, Rad is not the word ..lol sellicks beach for a day on the sand is nice depending on the tide, weather. just watch for sharks if you go for a swim ,, they come in very very close. but so do the good fish if you cast a line out just check out the race , if you can see any of it thru 3 layers of fencing,

this was the first time I painted them, now even better, and the wheels aren't so dirty..lol

damn double post

Generic box = generic sound

mine are sprayed anodized blue with polished nissan logo, the letters are flat. but I dremelled off all the casting marks from the calipers too. a while back. looks way smoother up close that way RDA slotted rotors are done too. the hub and inside the slots/vanes too. goes with the blue lugnuts and valve stems on the white rims. the easiest way is paint them... then use a small fine crosscut flat file. to run across the nissan logo. its very soft alloy so beware. then use some 240 grit wet paper. go on up to 400-600 wet and high temp clear coat the whole lot. don't be fooled the anodized paint can take the high temps even off my ceramic compound brake pads , not discoulourations ever. paint the bolts with ceramic matte black paint, looks a good . cost about a day in time , don't rush it and 60 bucks in paint, etc. drive a little bit then apply the brakes to lightly bake them a few times. before hammering on them.

I did mine in real carbon, but hated it, to reflective for my taste, so now I used a special paint process , it looks like black flocking but durable as hell paint . matte black and matches the dash nice with all the molded in TV, and gauges. you can also do hydroprinting to redo them, I'm checking on setting up a shop that does it in the near future. lasts just as long as car paint does. you can redo it with lots of things but watch the reflective issues off the windshield. etc. annoying as hell. its piss easy to pull off the parts for respary and sanding, even the clear part of the AC controls comes off easy with a sharp thin knife, CA glue it back on when done. and change your lights to LED while your at it, DAN666 on here sells the kits.

mirror lexan, bullet proof in the right thickness or DNA paints new mirror paint with liquid glass on top of it. 10 ways to do it, but some cost a lot more then others or weight can be a issue

dark purple or maybe black R34 GTR just caught a glimps of it on states rd. hackam area, about a hour ago

''iculkn black stag parked down my street yesterday . same one I think from supercheap darlington ??? showroom new R32 GTR , black one on south rd near onka river heading south, car was flawless white r31 with P's and burnout rims on rear of it coming out of aldinga about 4pm , blowing a bit of smoke and sounded like hell. every tool in town doing doughnuts and drifts up the hills from me last night. annoying pricks take it to a track !!!!!

yes the distance from the front windshield to the area where the bass comes from, if its a R31 sedan the bass will be coming thru the seat back. then if you turned your box to face the rear of the car measure the distance from the cone to the rear of the car . and give me both numbers. my R31 sedan is not around to measure. the ex wiff took it...lol if its not in a R31 then let me know what car it's in. shoot me a photo of the box or measure the aprox dimensions/shape of your box. or if its just a generic box ? sealed or ported ? for fusion gear, haven't worked a lot with it but I know Daryl in the fusion van does ok in sound comps with it. like most stuff it's made in asia . and yes NZ for fusion if I remember right. this is the new version of the amp line you have. if you look at the specs its 900watts max mono, but only 350rms @ 4ohms which is how you run it. so it would give you some extra grunt. fusion if your not brand loyal you could do better???? , or you might find a similar older style model to match yours for cheap on ebay or even a local fusion dealer, they had a mono one with the same specs and green casing send you the sound plot when you get the info , and you can see the difference you can have in layout of the box, and added power.

if your listening to Prodigy thats one problem,,, kidding ,,, the fast beat and high distortion from the group's production processsing can cause even a good system to have drama to keep up with it. kinda like Nine Inch nails at full tilt. does the bass ever sound good with any music types at lower/mid volumes? if its a burned CD, compression is killing you, store bought ones are compressed enough already the bass from the 12 with lower then reccomended power will prove fatal over time , fusion wants you to power that with twice the power you have on tap and I would agree. that amp is fine for a pair of splits or mini sub at low volume but your asking too much from it to nuke the drive thru order girl with bass...lol . you could do a band pass box but that will only buy you a bit more, you could up the input to 8volts, using a pre amp like audiocontrol overdrive , or Epicenter which would buy you a bit more and can be used later on. but even fed with 8v in the output can only be so much.later today I'll punch in a basic SPL plot for your amp and sub and post them up for you to see what you can expect with going to a higher power on the sub. or better box. also reccomend exact freq cutoff for best reults. take a tapemeasure and measure the distance from your windscreen middle section to your rear deck area where the sub sound comes from and post it up. so I can plot the bass expansion available to the inside of your car. which is why some cars sound good pounding from afar but average up close. the bass wave hasn't expanded until outside the car.

great car, well loved , and now you know you have to bring it to car shows and events.. it was in the fine print...lol

mine is too tall, needs to be bolted to the floor pan directly . DAMN sunroofs in R34..grrrr use a phone book....kidding

chris beat me to it, but maybe a setup of splits from Blaupunkt from chris ? , they had some in the 99 buck range that rated well in INCAR Entertainment mag last year I think every major company has speakers etc that can fit the price point of 100 a pair, that will be 1000% better then factory between 750-1k you should be able to get something to make you happy, and don't forget to ask for a better price from anyone you buy from. or a trader in SAU.? I can recommend Chris , we have the same high demands for quality installs...lol

there are so many companies who make good stuff, like Rockford , just use name branded stuff and a really good installer, which is by far more important then the price points and brands.Rockford is average in comparison to what you can buy with lots of money , but in the long run will you hear the difference in a car doubt it. pro tip 2 a cheap as chips patch cord will work and used by fly by night installers , but for how long, 2 days or 2 seconds, before the RCA falls off? get a pro to intall it , somebody who will stand behind the install and not ashamed to show you how the wires are run if you ask them

that amp doesn't have enough power if its only 180rms bridged at 4 ohms , what amp model ### is it ? the make power would be around 360watts in a perfect world but it should still have some hit, a punch 45 old school was similar power and done right could pound decent running a whole car of speakers in mixed mono config. too much power very rarely torches a sub, bad box design or underpowered clippiing kills them most of the time pm me a few photos or post a few if you can so we can see up close what you have and how the layout is now. it would be a huge help for all of us. just another question what music are you listening too, and what format or device , cd, radio,ipod, mp3, aac, etc? that could be the reason I have some sugguestions but will wait for reply first. not to point out some of the advice on here is not acurate and can destroy other speakers so becareful.

I'm not talking uber stuff, just decent tunes the louder your car the less you can hear the music. the more power it takes from the amp, which fries cheap speakers. or destroys your ears with distortion. and makes you sterile ? ok maybe not sterile but close a decent cheap amp, and sub with generic box, 300-400 at least two pairs of decent speakers. 200 cables- 50-100 install ???? misc parts? do you see where Im going ?? . save a few hundred more then go shopping you will be much happier in the long run. there is cheap,and then there is shite. go with cheap not shite. you wouldn't want shite in a GTR. it smells ??? lol

you could do it low cost, but keep saving to get something decent and a good install. if you just want cheap and nasty then 750 will buy that with change left over

mine just died the same death. lol cause the rubber key protector fell off and steam got inside it replace the battery backup siren, about 80-100 bucks from autobarn or get a battery from jaycar. (but yours would be stuffed inside just like mine) and if your alarm was killing your car battery before it freaked out, yes that will do it, if your car battery runs flat, so will the alarms, and after a few times the internal battery can't recharge or stuffs the curcuit inside it this happens in all brands not just viper. battery life is about 3-5 years in the siren do not remove the alarm replace/upgrade it but dont remove it adelaide car theft is rampant for skylines !!!!!!!