Carbon 34

you might be in over your skill set ????? sorry for assuming that the wires wont match up directly, if your "stuck" already take it to a pro, before you set off the airbag or fry one of the computers and the coax will now need some solder(some skill) to fix if you expect to get any radio channels?

turn up the volume and enjoy..lol funny and stupid at the same time..?? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqT-5nLZUl4

yeah could be a dragging slightly burnt voice coil , or a tensil lead from the voice coil to the solder joint on the speaker frame shorting out on the speaker frame when it moves just right or plug inside the speaker box is loose ???. a few of the older sony stuff had bad capacitors on the pre amp side of the board, but most of the time they would go into protection or squeal loud internally to the amp itself. sorry I missed the testing of the deck already, rotary dials and detachable face decks get dirt in the connections and do weird things. drop out etc. dirt roads and car audio dont mix well...lol use marine equipment if you drive in the dust all day long.lol

yes, 4gauge wire to the mounting bolt of the alternator to the negative terminal of the battery , this will also help misfiring coil packs sometimes. the voltage won't drop so much use care so the wires are secure and not rubbing anything. and most average car radio/amp installs don't include running fresh wire to inside the doors, the labour time can build up very fast to do that. with some molex plugs in doors being a bitch to find room to run wires into. I would ask them to ground the amp in a better location. some brackets are barely secure with more then a few spotwelds. not good for a lot of current transfer at all

have you run another RCA OUTSIDE the car to the amp or swapped the front and rear RCA around for testing ? you could have a bad solder joint on the RCA wires or pinched wires under a seat or bolt your sure they checked to make sure the amps RCA jacks aren't broken off the curcuit board, very common lately on made in china gear. without solid support, and in a truck break even faster from vibrations. easy to fix if so. give your wires a wiggle test while on low volume , starting with the amp area, then under the dash. ??? if the deck/truck was offroaded severely then maybe, depending on if it has rotary controls or push button ? what model pioneer radio? removable face ???

series 2 r34 look different again..lol when you have the DVD, MD, SAT NAV, CD CHANGER, TV POP UP from the factory the radio trim part and double din steel insert is what your after, and a trim plate for the climate control to move the parts up. you most likely have the metal brackets behind the dash I rebuilt mine to mold exactly to the radio contour for a aftermarket double din motorized face, now it fits the contour of the dash and radio rather then the afterthought flat part around the radio a single din radio will still need a block off or pocket , gauges if you want to ditch the factory rubbish in the dash. and my tv now looks more like a GTR dash only 8 in tv now , up all the time and remolded /blended into the factory housing using carbon fibre but found the carbon is too reflective off the windscreen , so after a few other tries at various material the thing is matte black with texture. looks flocked but not, and heat proof now

mine is converted over from stock to a complete aftermarket setup using mutiple screens., pm me if you want more info.

bundy has ya covered it looks like, don't forget to pre charge the capacitor with a resistor or test light or it can pop it and spark a lot. not a good thing a resistor inline with the power when you apply power(and gets extemely hot so be warned) , slowly charges it up, rather then a fast dump of current into it. a 99cent old fashion test light in series works too, placed inline it will glow when completely charged use the cheap ass incadecent one. but do not use for testing in a computer controlled car and ground the amps well, with bolts and lock washers. same gauge as amps use place the cap very near the bass amp. both if possible and keep the wire run short and secure well

was I driving like a old fart, I've been really deathly sick the past week ..lol I was on my way back from doc/hospital most likely. I remember a med/big truck but blew past it on beach rd , cause he was going 40 and weaving...lol and I wanted to get home to die , not die in traffic of old age

yeah I met the guy up at the car wash, "I'm bad on names" but he wants to drop in on a villis run some friday night. spotted about 4 V36 series cars today all over town candy red and gold r33 with biplane wing at autopro in reynella, big body kit yellow r34 with a kit in town lowered blue r31 with FMIC hanging out front, black 5 spokes and aftermarket brakes off payneham rd. car was quiet as hell pearl white stag gold BBS style wheels in MV at the normal parking lot off south rd. and lots more ,,lol

yes you can pull the amp, alpine does have some non powered decks but doubt yours is ? does you radio say 50 x4 or similar on the front ? or read the manual if you have it. the radio can power the door and rear deck speakers fine. unless you have a electronic xover setup directly to some tweeters. then you might need some capacitors inline to them or risk frying them. but depending on how it was hooked up will make the difference in how hard it is to fix back up? any audio installer should be able to sort it out without too drama , funny how a lot of hard work to install can be ripped out so quickly when the time comes to remove it..lol

I'm up for it? its not too bad and if you get bored you can hoof it over to the beach or ? Link to entry and other info

my bad I meant, the new HOT4's magazine with the blue wrx on the front

maybe need more info most likey yes it will work on deck power if its a powered deck and yes most likey needs rewiring , could be lots, or a little ?

spotted kahli(spelling ?) in the new fast fours mag, under "rides underconstruction area", nice job car should be hot

this is something to consider to save some dosh, alpines offer on type x alpine au and yes if installed by a pro it will fit, they need mdf mounts to be solid in the doors a little dynamat type soundeadner would be advised at least in the doors ditch the stock speakers in all cases run the 4 channel to the 4 inside mono block to subs enjoy

R34 GTT coupe ,,,,drivers side power window switch and mirror switch, no trim plate. these are for a series 1 car only, series 2 use a different electronic setup internally to the swich. no idea if they work since I can't test them on my car. ???? but purchased from someone who said they work without looking closer to realize they won't work in my car DOOH!!! my loss your gain located in Adelaide , post or pickup down south only 30 bucks for both..... firm. price, these go for 100 on eblow used photos on request

antenna brand is Calearo Shark fin think judging from the part numbers in italian its for a Audi PN#75 81 065 it has the SMA female plug on one end and the proprietary plug to interface with the shark fin on the other side, I took some photos of the install and the roof underside to show everyone in a write up of how to do it when I get time to write it up and post it up ...lol the trick on the R34 is the double roof, you must drill two holes of different sizes to tighten the nut on the underside. 19mm in the roof outside 28mm on the inside , which can be a bit tricky if your not careful ,and the headliner must be off to do it without a doubt but like mine the new material looks loads better (I had to mold a new carbon fiber part for my flush mount 3.5" rear camera LCD and boost gauge, reverse sensors LCD read out anyhow and new LED downlight/ sunroof switch ??? ), I used Dynamat hoodliner in the roof, super light and reflects a lot of heat too. ( the tar based products fall off in the heat when placed in the roof) Dynamat product used

yeah should be fine, leave the sub in the box and dynamat the rear rego plate, cause it will rattle a lot..hahah

dont run the sub like that , unless you bought infinate baffle model ? one without a box required ?? or it will die a quick death

white r34 gtt 4 dr , raw 34 for sale near hallet cove looks decent , some tools in a orange ford trying to get him to race... failed attempt .then trying to run me over on foot after doing they went thru the pub booze drive thru twice in 30 seconds, asswhores kitted yellow r32 with a blond driver same area ms r33 on beach rd purple R34, GTR ,,,,mmmmmm met a few guys at the car wash hallet cove, silver R34 GTR, white R33 with 3 spoke blue lips, CFR names DOOH!!! both nice cars purple supra at junkfood corner, the one from autosalon, sounded farking mean. two ford mach 1 and a 69 stang, just dropped in from california off the boat. , they sounded decent and with the 429 big block should move well. found out the guy next door imports cars from america and containers full of parts too if you need anything ?

Lucas trans oil from supercheap 20 bucks or so for a heap, it runs way cooler and the pump is happier now. the film strength is better in this heat

think I might come down for some photos (catch up) if thats cool cara ?

I have one on my car now, but mine is a mini shark fin one ordered from OEM company that does the factory ones for HI END cars in germany.italy, and is a powered version , amplified signal.that need to go to the radio and you need to select the right cable option for use on your radio. they come with a multitude of options. like this one sound deaden the roof while your in it. , remove the head liner before drilling. and use the exact size bit they ask for. think mine was 19mm some silicones eat paint, or can promote rust on bare metal so beware. mark it off and exacto razer knife the paint in the circle around it so the only paint that comes off is around the hole and in the exact size of the drill, so it doens't flake off a big chunk when you drill it. and low tack masking tape the area off in case the drill bit walks on you.blankets or towels to stop scratching or broken windows from vibrations. the rear windows can shatter easy while drilling. needs a good ground on the underside or the ground plane will not work. and the antenna will cut in and out. measure 4 times, drill once. go slow confirm your not going to drill into a bad area under the antenna, roof braces or sunroof ? wires ? use a core drill not a twist bit(the kind used for reverse sensors on bumpers), it will buckle the roof skin in most cases otherwise. redo the headliner while its off..lol I did in black suede. very nice now. flimsy ass nissan factory headliner and if you have a sunroof like mine does, tighten the bolts up, found a bunch loose on mine that rattled and drove me mad. tie the wires up and spray glue/ gaffer tape them up or they will rattle on the foor.headliner, don't pinch them in moldings good luck and becareful not a job for the faint at heart disclaimer this is advice only based upon qualified installation methods , in other wards don't blame me if you stuff it up. I can't be next to you to show you exactly how to do it..lol if you need any clarification let me know before hand.?

that kinda what I meant but the amps are behind the wall, and the wall is smaller. mounted to the seat back frame, the little area when you pull out the back seat , the amps depending on how large and how hot they run can fit hidden behind the wall subs can fit in custom boxes on the sides but watch the r31 fuel door release, they break off easy,( the white clip) and if you need access at the petrol station it's better to use your fingers on the latch then a screw driver to pop the door open.and scratch the paint or bend the door. don't pinch the fuel pump wires either, under the carpet , R31 have lousy harness connection at best to the fuel pump pain in the ass to fix broken off wires. R31 has plenty of space for equipment compared to the r34..lol