Carbon 34

a MDF board covered in carpet with spacers to hold it off the seat back the proper distance. bolted to the rear frame behind the seat facing away from harms way. but still able to breath , or side wall, passenger side, works as well

American Airport security funnies TSA = TRANSPORTATION SECURITY ADMINISTRATION, the clowns who check your bags !! New TSA airport signs while you are waiting in the security checkpoint ... * Can't see London , can't see France , unless we see your underpants. *Grope discounts available. *If we did our job any better, we'd have to buy you dinner first. *Only we know if Lady Gaga is really a lady. *Don't worry, my hands are still warm from the last guy. *Throw a few back at the airport Chili's and you won't even notice. *Wanna fly? Drop your fly. *We've handled more balls than Barney Frank *We are now free to move about your pants *We rub you the wrong way, so you can be on your way. *It's not a grope. It's a freedom pat. *When in doubt, we make you whip it out. *TSA: Touchin', Squeezin', Arrestin' *You were a virgin! *We handle more packages than the USPS *The TSA isn't silly, they just want to inspect your willy *Stroke of the hand, law of the land *No Shirt, No Shoes, No Problem *Let your fingers do the Walking *Cough *Reach out and touch someone *Can you feel me now? *When we're done with you, you'll need a cigarette

I was going to say fan clutch but you dont have it..lol bleed the system and have the heater on full heat mode at the same time, the airlock can be in the heater core. electric fans aren't the same effectiveness as the factory one. make sure you fit a shroud ??? front of it and behind the radiator to force the air over the fan not around it

UV stable clear window tint works so does a Megs M108 polish then apply long term paint sealer, good for years still don't park in the sun all day/everyday..lol lexan is used for aircraft windows so the aircraft supply store is the best place for polish and ideas how to fix it.

normally means the battery is low on power, and the alternator needs to make more to support it. clean your battery terminals first with a battery brush and baking soda and water mixed to a paste if corroded(do not get into wet cell battery holes or it will kill it), and make sure your grounds are tight, a ground run to the mounting bolt on the alternator improves the condition and idle 8ga or 4ga is ok test the voltage engine off 12v-13v is fine then on 12.5-14.4 is fine now add lights on, does it fall a lot ? or hover around 13v ? if it goes below 12v you need to have it looked at, if you still have the little jap battery it's most likley dying if the whine doesn't improve then expect the failure of the alternator down the track. , could be the bearing/bushing in it from a too tight fan belt or just old age. (assuming the fan belt is in good nick still and not too tight )too loose they howl like your standing on a cats tail..lol

I have a white one on my car that is coming off soon due to a body kit going on. near perfect nick but has a small reverse camera hole in the very lower lip, black area . no lights/camera included

your exhaust pipe is probally creaking/ticking on cool off, or the plastic in the car is, if your car has a glass break sensor it's picking up the temp difference in the air from hot to cold or wind noises, they sense the pressure drop if a window is shattered on most, some are microphones set for a certain freq. and pick up birds /cats claws on the roof. whom ever installed it might have it hooked to a wire harness that see's power for a certain time period after shutdown, the current flow can cause a magnetic disturbance in the sensor. when the current stops. random goiing off after a few min of sitting or it may have sagged into a bad spot after installed ? move the sensor to another location.

0 gauge car audio cable in a kit is cheaper , welding cable is very good stuff but a pain to run in a car , and connections are Industrial looking , plus 2ga connections are harder to find then 0ga I have it in my car, and "retail" it was about 200 bucks and comes with grounds, fuse holder.two distubution blocks, battery terminals and 4 gauge as well. in a metal/plexi display case for use on whatever afterwards. are you going to run two batteries or just 1 ? you need a isolator if you run 2 as chris sugguested if you use a CD tray or GTR battery tray in the rear it works a treat. my GTT had a 6 disk changer mounted on a nissan steel tray, flat and strong on the passenger side axle area. under the rear deck, that would work sweat with some mods to it. and don't forget a battery in the boot must be vented to atmo or better yet a sealed AGM/Drycell type battery to be legal and safe?

gear puller !!!! slide hammer ?

dark gray r33 chrome 5 spokes on states rd again, I really wouldnt' leave that parked in that location overnight if you are ?? it is DA HOOD !!! tan r31 with front spoiler lip at hackam workplace, looked decent is that your daily now Brenden ?

dark grey r33 with shiny FMIC and 5 spoke wheels on states rd parked / hackam

i spotted it too.lol

being from the USA but immigrating to oz , I have used a lot of radar/laser equipment and even know how to build/repair it in USA successfully jammed a KA band radar at damn near pointblank range while exceeding the limit by at least 30mph and lidar at over 130mph in a 80 zone, in my stupid days of NFS RX7 (lived in montana which had no speed limit during the day at the time I lived there) fact you can jam laser and radar. including lidar. which was made two blocks from my house in usa. little bastards. fact it works but cost a bundle in oz to recreate, thousands !! fact not legal to jam it, if caught they will hang you !! and flatten your car fact not worth it unless you drive in the open outback areas at extreme speed, you will be caught if your the first car hit with it. and the above applies then per the request they do sell legal Radar/safety camera which can be used in all states, since they have a off switch for the radar portion. it is undetectable !! if hidden well. which cost money to install, not a 5 min job. more like a few days worth Bel and Valentine are some good ones but you can create your own jamming equipment, and no don't ask me too. I wouldn't do it for anyone !!! I think OZ is over the top with revenue producing devices, and very nanny like. but the drivers don't drive in snow or ice, so the skills aren't the same plus OZ cars have a lot more power then the average US cars. really bad drivers and speed is a bad idea. teach drivers to control cars is a better idea then a friggan log book and P' plates hope this is bit more unbiased , I'm looking at one for my car but they cost a butt load here and the iphone app is really not that great, I have it, dont even bother, just don't speed thru cameras

thought you said it had a viper immobolizer in it ? that is a car alarm, more or less!!! really!!!! huge mistake if you don't run one. drives up the rates of insurance for everyone else when the car gets nicked and written off ? a normal battery will die on "NO LOAD" just from sitting in a month or less sometimes the viper has a light flasher relay built in, you should see parking lights flash, if not then I would suss the factory or viper relay/flasher has died. or is now bouncing due to low voltage , or the relay to "Immobolize" the car is stuck(they make the same noise when dead) .(outboard high current bosch relay normally) , about 20 bucks to change roughly. depends on the model of viper , if its' built into the board or on the wire harness itself.

two lines near expressway just now, beach rd and heaps of old cars on a cruise

tyres gone, thanks Firenza ST 265/35/18 80%-85% tread coming soon , no uneven wear

the problem is the alarm was reset and lost programming when you changed the battery. the siren sounds like it was shut off with the key on the top of it ???? and the alarm is actually on and going off , but the siren is turned off ?? the noises you hear are the light flasher relay , if its a on off sound, if its a buzzing fast sound the relay is on low voltage or fried. have it checked by viper dealer ? a dead battery in the backup battery on the siren is possible as well? if it got deep cycled too much and is old they wont hold a decent charge. and if you don't have the wires connected on the battery right (loose or corroded or even missing one ignition wire/bad grounds ) the viper is sensing the voltage flucuation as a possible attempt to over ride the alarm and disconnect the battery. normal for a decent alarm to do to protect the car from crims? and if your car alarm was installed by a pro, it should be covered under a brain swap program for warranty for life of the orginal owner ? 12volts on the meter doesnt mean your battery has any current capacity to speak of, I've seen new batteries with 13volts, but very little current holding. wouldn't even turn over a starter. you need to have it load tested to see if it's still good ? you have a dead battery/cell if it wont hold a charge , wet cell jap batterys are way to small for anything , ditch them asap you never use the viper remote ??? so the car isn never alarm protected ??????? the remote takes a battery which is most likely dead, either a mini 12v or a 1.5 aaa depending on which model it is. cost a buck or two always alarm your car, even in your driveway or petrol station , or it will get stolen !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did Krishy order a country women and is too lazy to pick her up for dinnner and you have to drop her off ......damn...lol or did he order a plain brown paper box from the porn shop again...lol I could go a villi's tonght,but can't sux haven't done shite for a while

He never contaced me to get them ???

tyres sold pending payment and pickup

black r33 GTR with P plates at HJ , junkfood corner. in front of me in drive thru., new 7 digit plates , clean looking car. waved but got a WTF look back ?

you can fit a pair of 10 or 12 behind the factory panels on most skylines(most cars too), in a custom fibreglass box, they don't take any room at all, looks factory still. much better then the e'blow generic box. I have a pair of pro 12's in a carbon fibre/bullet proof lexan bandpass box's and it takes up minimal room,(tuned to match the speaker not generic boxes ) still have full access to the spare etc. ported thru the factory speaker holes, no metal cutting at all besides moving the jack to the middle of my spare instead of the side wall. so a little creativity you can do it right and not use up all the space.

depends on how much install your talking about, a basic one. not worth it. show car crazy yes , but it must comply with common sense, not block off the windows etc. and remember if you paint up the fibreglass fancy, it reflects off the rear window so bad you can't see behind you ??? and not cut metal in the car safety areas. pretty much any of it !! and the steel plate in a GTT behind the seat must stay bolted in and intacted or the chassic flexes a lot in the rear ? remember to ditch your backseat you need to remove seatbelts/baby bolts, weld the holes up, and re rego the car as a "TWO" seat car to comply with road safety rules? or you can get defected ? IMO.....really not worth it , but then the back seat is pointless unless you have no legs, or want a to haul a extra chick around..lol my seat is so far back you can't even sit a child seat behind it !! the rear seat is pretty light weight so no real gains on that count. if you don't plan a pro install then DO NOT DO IT!!! a big wooden box/sub chucked in the back is a death missle when you hit the brakes ?? they can and will pull a metal bracket right off in a high G impact or stop.

hate it when the volts excape.lol bet its a bad backup battery in the siren ?? happens after about 2-3 years or more often if you don't drive often or deep cycle the main battery? or stuck relay ? your sure nothing is wired to be on with the key off ? aftermarket stuff ??