Carbon 34

kye, get in touch with MR RS4, he works at woolies down south and might be able to find out for you.

Wine R32 with red seat covers, Windows down ??? sitting on the side of states rd, might as well put a steal me sticker on it..geez and they wonder why they get stolen..lol silver stag , noarlunga area, think it was MR RS4 at work??

quick way to waste the rest of the afternoon, not work safe !! ZOO bikini babe vote poll

"RRRR 322" R32 on south rd by flinders , wheels have a fair bit O dish but needs a wing on it blue r32 near monroe, pretty tired looking car heading towards st marys

ditch the factory radio...they suck bad...lol even a 90 dollar pioneer or sony is way beyond the factory one in sound quality the band expanders are shite , and most people hack the antenna wires to install them and wonder why nothing comes in on the radio properly ?

I think PJ is right on the money, you sound like your drumming up clients ??? (based upon the above statement and a few others which is against SAU rules unless you pay the proper fees ) I also think you have a long way to go to become a serious installer, or even basic systems installs ,and audio theory of acoustics in a car are way off the mark. fabrication is a long way off too, carpet for a house or from bunnings from the looks of it ...doesn't fold conform to car shapes, and wont stay glued in the heat here. the wood is pretty much straight off the saw, not shaped to fit properly. when you drive that Cadence sub free air in the boot the odds are it will fry the voice coil, you wont hear the distortion till you see the smoke and open the boot. what are the xover points, from the looks in your photos you have the gains maxed out, bass boost maxed out,and the freq cut off around 60hz or less, unless you have a better photo ? that is a combination for distortion and dead sub. do you know how to run a amp mixed mono ? what ohm loads are and how they relate at certain freq. ? what ohm load are you running that amp on ? and what else is wired on it ? car audio may seem Soooooo basic but in the end it isnt, a simple mistake can lead to a lot of issues,some not so pleasant, and not safe. to the people reading this, it may sound harsh but these installs are the main reason pro installers hate backyard installs, cause when it breaks,,,,and it will !! we get to sort out the mess, charge the client twice for a job that should have been done right the first time, and possibly replace the dead equipment, which pisses you off cause you lump us into the "backyard installer group"... so think about it, you can pay the PRO now, or later . (disclaimer, dont get me wrong ,,we all have to start off somewhere but dont sell your wares until you know what the hell your doing???? it gives Pro installers a bad rap ) close the thread before the pissing match begins, I could post up a thousand photos of bad installs and the results of them. lets keep the help positive to fellow members who want to learn how to do it the right way. end rant

thats GOLD,,,, but really why are you looking at buying a dress ???...lol

silver stag turning into the woodcroft car wash st. gave a wave, got a WTF look...lol

got my entry sticker today in the mail.. thank god it wont be as hot as today,lol

In lonsdale off o'sulleys beach rd/aldershot road, next to the nissan repair guy, they did some quick work for me , for cheap too cashies as well...lol if you catch them at 5pm hahahaha

Dont forget ......in a real world , deck power is more like 17Watts to 25watts RMS , (unless it has real mosfets outputs) , the instant power for 1milli second is 60watts at 10% or more distortion on IC power chips that might be rated at 60watts max output, remember ,underpowered distortion kills speakers faster then too much power if you plan on a amp in the future then disconnect the rear speakers for now, spend the money on some good front speakers instead. . you dont need to update the wires unless you plan on serious power , you can tie into the main speaker harness behind the radio for the fronts (most generic installers dont change the wires into the doors without $$$$, its a pain compared to using the factory tie in) and your front trims are easy to remove(check the how too section here for directions how to pop off the trim), the back ones take much longer to get at, depending on whats in there already. and get back to chris, Im sure he can find speakers for a decent price, with customer service and smile...hahaha

yeah they use parts from VIFA/MOREL , just like most high end companies speaker lines just because a speaker cost a lot doesnt mean is the best . the install/amp is at least 50% of the sound quality stock ones ,, who cares how much power they take,, I break off the magnets into parts to stop shavings in my oil from going thru the motor.. placed near the plug on the oilpan, lol

depends on the rest of your system, if your running on deck power, amp, want rear fill, cost ? I run rear fill only on mine, with 6.5 separates time aligned to the front ones. but that is more then most people hints stay away from wizzer cones, only get a real tweeter coax, super tweeter gimicks are a waste DO NOT CUT THE DECK FOR 6X9 speakers.. ADR defectable and they suck anyway from that link , budget based 6.5 Fusion Pioneer Kenwood Sony Then maybe any of these Boston Kicker Soundstream JL Audio I would buy the Kicker separates if those were my choices and redo the rear deck , it will need a recover most likely anyway from years of sunlight even with tint..I did mine is black suede , cuts down on the glare a lot too dont overlook, Vifa from Jaycar, they are damn great speakers and low cost, if you go separates PM me and I can send you some x-over values for them dont forget Chris Rodger and a few others on here sell new gear, (shameless plug for chris..lol) in most cases I would try to match up the speakers with the fronts, always upgrade the fronts first unless your other ones are dead. sit back and think about how far you want to go with sound , cause you dont want to change gear two or three times if you can help it

spotted a bayside blue R34 GTR in seaton at a house

mmmmm nice, she likes "POLE" vaulting.. nice find

4 dr r33 for sale on the roadside , beach rd and south rd, chromie 5 spoke wheels, but looks fairly clean someone in a r31 was looking at it when I drove past. black r32 ,turbine looking chromies with a very nice looking platinum blond driver,, hot damn she lives a few doors away.lol first time the car has moved in 2 months.. its a miracle..lol

drove past from autoparts place , had to get some paint I would come in to say hello but they always give me funny looks when I ask for ya..lol

two yellow GTT one at noarlunga , with black and chrome meshies the other with a nice looking blond driver, south rd MV wine r33 same area abe at work random bogan smashing his old yellow ford ute into a ford shite box near bunnings , just a few ago. looks like he also got the pole from the looks of things two down , millions to go...totalled fords that is..hahahaha

nice place but its missing some things,,,, a swim up bar with topless waitress and a money tree in the corner for the pole dancers otherwise it looks porno

had to laugh ......"Just in case you forget her name in the throws of passion" ...lol not sure what she is up too.

had project MU on the GTT , they made my wheels look shocking, and didnt stop any better then my camry even with new slotted rotors swapped over to Bendix ceramic with the easy bed in strip, now I can say the thing is 1000 times better. no dust, no squeals, and can peal your skin when you slam on the brakes. made a huge difference on the street and dont cost a mint 60 bucks for fronts, 50 something for rears

the biggest reason is the global market failure,, the USA big biz failure , lost jobs here, and everywhere on the face of the earth. in turn the US dollar and other currency slumped , which meant you could import the cars for less here, the Aussie dollar took a hit but not as bad as everwhere else. so the R34 GTT you could buy for 30-40k 3 years ago, was now 23-29k for a high grade low K car. GTR's will increase in value after everyone destroys them, its a classic timeless design, history has proven timeless designs or historic (race cars) always increase in value, might be 10 years or 20 but they will increase. over the years I've wished I kept every car I owned... datto 1200 coupes I bought in good shape for 75 bucks. now worth 10k opal GT, for 130 bucks worth around 13k now if you can find one 70 corvette LT1 , bought for 5k, worth close to 100k when the market was hot before the meltdown. etc wont even mention my moms Merc SL gull wing and the value increase people had disposable income, these days not so much. so the dealers have to drop the prices to match. supply and demand economics if you could buy a cherry GTR and only drive it to keep it in good nick, I'm pretty sure you could really boost your retirement on the proceeds (if your in your 20's now) classic cars exceed the investment portfolios of any so called planners. just like property investing, took a hit but still a good bet long term if you think skylines devalue you should look at the domestic cars, or korean ones,,, you will feel better...lol

white r33 with white wheels , no wing on south rd hackam last night bout 5 spotted and got a wave from EXIT33 near repat this morning

spotted a white r33 with no wing, red calipers, twice on o'sulleys beach rd in lonsdale about 3ish followed by a red r31 with burnout spec tires on the rear

black stag , kinda like rubys only no blue mesh behind me on elizabeth rd, CC rego. boosted past me when I turned off ? silver bone stock R33 p plates , and jay 19- R31 at woolies hackam