blinksta

When did you replace the pump last, could be faulty thermostat

Could not agree more

You come into my thread, abuse me and give no insight or possible solution and state I deserve abuse , you are pure gold son and I salute you

no worries The view is good from up here, how is it in the ditch

I am the OP and champ with the name Trozzle coming into my thread speaking of contribution of 56 posts in a touch over 3 years and all your posts (give or take being useless entries as that is what a troll does) thats a bit rich coming from you as all your valid posts would equal mine...maybe hahaha....Are you positively annoyed friend? I (and everyone else involved with my engine) would love to be wrong on this then the engine wouldn't need to taken apart, and which is why I posted this in case anyone else has the same problem in the future. As for the negative rep, you can't help that people read something on a forum and just have the need to neg something because they can even if it's non-related to them, I haven't neg'd any post in my thread.........yet

Another cool story bro, you keep doing this we will become bff The reason for not explaining is because you can't, come on oh great engine builder that doesn't get anything wrong. Here's something to comprehend nimrod thousands of people develop and test a multitude of various gadgets and gizmos to help people and I bet when there making these things they think the same thing this can't/ won't go wrong...then it happens, you do something a million times over odds suggest YOU WILL GET IT WRONG AT LEAST ONCE look it up BRO that my friend is basic and because you can't comprehend that makes you such idiot. Basic trade law interpretated says any business that either provides service or product can ask to have said service re-done free of charge or product send back for refund or replacement within reason and if failed a second time can be charged (relating to service) the fee from someone else to have the work done again, which is provided that the work done second time around fails is because of them (the engine builder). So in short remember breathe in then breathe out as you will die if this is not repeated through your life and putting one foot in front another will lead you to a long walk off a short cliff and provide many lulz (at your expense)

First off cool story bro and if you can come up with a suggestion without pulling the head off speak now or forever shut up. I didn't come to the conclusion a tuner/ builder and another highly recognized tuner (obvious reasons I'm not mentioning business names or tuners) came to the conclusion and with a problem that shows no obvious signs of what can be the problem, and every test to try and find the problem without taking the head off, my guess is your answer if this problem was presented to you is "it's fckd mate". The reason for the tests is because if you have any idea (which you don't) is not to void warranty/ liability with the business that built the motor (and yes it was sent back to the original builder). As for being out of business for a returned service/ product "end of story" every business in Australia...wait...the world would be out of business by your belief, and your "thinking" I'm shocked that you can put one foot in front of another each morning. A number of reasons can pull different results, changing weather, cold/ hot, different gauges...etc.....far out I just realized why am I arguing with an idiot no one will know the difference .

Yep that unfortunately looks like it, as everything else has been done without taking the engine apart and everything looks fine, all timing was re-checked yet again to no surprise it was fine and I wish it was the timing that would be an easy fix but putting even half a degree in and the engine will prob shoot a piston out the bonnet edit: when this engine is stripped for the 3rd time a full report will be done on the teardown just so the original engine builder can be told and shown by a 3rd party

well it seems like the height from the seat of the spark plug to the top of the piston is fine, actually better so the theory is the piston rings were installed upside down which provided everything in the head is fine makes total sense

This as well

check the radiator for the milky oil, pull the dipstick out wipe on a spoon and heat it up, if it starts bubbling then drop the oil and coolant will come first then oil

I know the pain of having the head removed for something so simple, but these are the two main fixes (that I know of) to stop flowing to much oil in the head and none in the sump. If the problem continues you could possibly have to re-build the engine again because no oil would be getting to the oil squirters (amoungst other things) underneath the piston which is then a domino effect. End of the day as long as the sump has sufficient oil to continue operating under full load then everything is fine (famous last word ). Failing that you can just not go WOT

nah a fitting is tapped into the middle of the head and a hose is run down the intake side and plumbed into the sump Like this: http://www.spoolimpo...OilDrainKit.asp (although this shows it going down the hot side which I would imagine that hose would simply fail)

You have an N1 oil pump flowing to much oil into the head to which a stock RB has that problem from factory so all the oil is stuck in the head and none in the sump you might want to get it fixed asap as you will prob spin a bearing or something else. As above you need oil restrictors put into the block to stop this from happening or a gravity fed oil return line from the back of the head into the sump (personally I have both and the N1 pump and no oil in catch can or the blow-by hose)

if it's only a little bit of smoke then most likely it's just condensation but that would burn off fairly quick so it sounds like the rings are letting go and would recommend a comp/ leak down test

yea same size HG 1.3

street and occasional track (not drifting) 1.5, otherwise if drifting go for the 2-way

oil squirters snapped off (wrong clearence) and the HG was changed

Leak down test was <=2% so everything was sealing, another comp test was done today and those numbers came up there is no blow by at all after checking the blow by hose and catch can, it was all measured with snap on tools as well so they are very realiable (granted not impossible to break or fail). Putting bigger cams on a stock block will reduce compression but not that much they would have to be some very aggressive cams for that to happen and these are only 264.

ok so I find out that the comp was built to 8.9:1 but they did yet another comp test and have some interesting numbers of 140, 115, 120, 125, 125, 105 or close to that which as you can tell is just completely rooted so to check they are going to measure (another r33 in the yard which is 100% healthy) from the seat of the spark plug to the piston (or something along those lines I will still angry from the readings) to confirm 150% that the engine wasn't built properly.

Sorry I don't know the actual comp ratio I will find that out in the next hour when I go have a look, but I would think that having standard size pistons or even a half mil over combined with a 1.3mil HG and drop in cams shouldn't reduce the comp by that much, I would expect maybe 10-20psi drop?!?

I probably should have explained that better the tuner was speaking to the builder about the engine as to why it's making low comp and they were on the phone for roughly an hour and the end result was the builder suggesting that the cams could be the problem.

yea done a leak down test all comes up perfect and managed to speak to the builder unfortunately he wasn't much help either and said that the cam timing must be off, but that has been checked I guess will have to check again. The pistons were the exact same as before when making the 240rwkw, im thinking it might be the cams that are dodgy and have to go back to stock :S

Yea all timing has been checked and cams dialled in

Hi, Need some help here I just got back and had installed a new forged RB25 looked all good until put on the dyno to find out that it makes less power then before (made 240rwkw which wasn't even final tune before an assembly fault saw it go back to the builder to come back with 218rwkw). Tuner did a comp test to find out it was 100psi across the board (seems low as I was expecting 150 and the tuner expected 140-150) did a leak down test as well everything is sweet and sealing up perfect, checked, re-checked and then another two times checked timing and everything is sweet. JE forged pistons Forged eagle rods 1.3mm head gasket hks 264 cams Anyone with some suggestions that could possibly result in not removing the head please let me know! Regards, blinksta