marni

Just wanted to say thank you for your input my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun. I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences: Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe 3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg

Hi all, I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out. All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it. He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing. I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back. I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting. So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse. I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back. Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point. If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan. Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable. He was supposed to: New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm) Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings New piston rings New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄 The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday) I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again? I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄

Yep that’s it the slide was jammed I got lucky though and got another head and block off someone who not long got it off a mechanic who was working on it for a customer that couldn’t pay big machine works been done on it so I’ve gotta cut my losses on the other one gonna be to expensive to fix now

Ah it’s too late now but it looks like a slide in the oil pump was jammed right where the spring and bolt are it’s f**ked the lot now the biggest lesson I’ve learnt during this build is, everyone offers opinions, you go with it because they are “mechanics” I was outnumbered now I’ve caused thousands of dollars in damage, on new parts because I didn’t listen to my instinct and now I’ve gotta fork it out to fix it everyone pretty much now is like I told u so which is what f**ks me off the most I’m 5000 steps behind where I started so take responsibility for your own shit and you won’t end up like me, don’t try and let people tell u how to do your shit, if u make the decision stick to it, I would’ve been better off if i did V8 boys know f**king nothing about turbos at all

I put a Nissan VRS kit through it, started leaking oil from both front cam shaft seals, rear main is leaking slightly (I took the motor and box back out yesterday) and the turbo seal is f**ked on the exhaust side wondering if relative thanks for replying

Hey guys, Has anyone blown the oil pump? what symptoms came up? really want to know, if someone could be bothered replying that would be great thank you Marni

Rebuilt RB25DET Lets skip to the juicy bit, this is my head after max 2km of testing, not running well before, thought valves may be the issue but they seem ok. Comp is at 140 (I know it's low) this is the intake side, no soot anywhere else, just in this one spot what the fk could've caused it? thanks Marni

They all seem to be working fine, it's like as soon as it cranks and starts, gets oil pressure then dies straight away, sounds promising for like 1 second and then cuts straight out im wondering if it's a lazy lifter or something although when i installed the last head and had a stuck lifter I had no comp in that cylinder whatsoever

When I had the stock reg on it test driving it was over fuelling and stalling as soon as you'd come of the throttle and the RPM would drop

It ran fine for like 9 years with that turbo and just an electronic boost controller haven't really had it on boost just yet cos it's not running right

Yea rebuilt motor with issues haha

Hey fellas, hope you're all well so here we go I need help I rebuilt my R33 series 2 GTS-T from the ground up. The rebuilt motor is having trouble starting and idling. Rebuilt RB25DET series 2 Car kicks over then cuts out straight away, like its starved of fuel. Then when you try start it again it gets really compressiony doesn't want to start. Leave it for a min and it will, but with horrible misfire, eventually sorts itself out but not fully, hunts for a bit. Doesn't sound like it's running on 6 cylinders. Head got rebuilt, had no issues with old one, piston rings were finished so I had to rebuild it Compression ratings at 140 across all 6 Seems to be over-fueling but it's always run rich. I've checked the: Coil pack loom, tested fine Fuel pressure fine Oil pressures good Spark is fine Timing is spot on New - Walbro fuel pump - Saads fuel reg - Iridium spark plugs - AFM - K&N Oil Filter - Gates timing belt - Nissan water pump - Nissan thermostat Old (off the motor before rebuild, but were working when dismantled) - GCG high flowed turbo - GCG FMIC - Injectors and rail (standard series 2) - ECU (standard series 2) - Intake manifold (inc AAC) - Exhaust manifold - Exhaust - BOV - Alloy Radiator - Cam shafts - After market boost controller - CAS - Pod filter - Splitfire coilpacks (haven't travelled more than 3000km) Any suggestions for me to test? I'm trying to organise a new CAS to test. We were test driving the car all week in our workshop carpark after we installed the new reg and it was running really well, but was doing this same thing over a week ago. Kinda reverted to doing the same thing again unfortunately. Id appreciate any help with it, it's so close but so far omg Thanks for reading Marni

Damn son my RB25DET has 140 comp across the board

Hey guys Help me finish my rebuild I need parts for R33 series 2 GTS-T - Nismo adjustable fuel reg - Apexi Power FC with hand controller - Engine mounts - Offside headlight, looking for an immaculate one (happy to buy pair if lenses are clear) - OEM steering wheel (red stitching) - dump pipe turbo to cat - High flow cat CASH WAITING Sydney Marni 0401385953

She's beautiful

WTB R33 Coupe Shell Hey guys WTB rolling shell R33 series 2 GTS-T coupe preferably Show me what you got Would love a factory sunroof and manual shell in KR4 (sonic silver) But not essential Cash waiting Sydney but will travel for right one Must be able to be registered in NSW Need my baby back ASAP

Hey guys I'm reshelling my R33 after it got written off Anyway I dropped the rear subframe yesterday, I knew the subframe bushings were gonna be cactus and they sure are. Anyways I'm thinking I want to go with a hard bushing kit, I like it riding stiff, it's got BC gold coilovers in the rear, I want to do the diff bushings too Been told GKtech are ok but what do u guys think? I don't want to do this again, because it's taken ages working all this shit out I think the front end is all Nolathane, don't know how bad they are yet because I haven't dropped the front yet Any input would be awesome, also is there anything else I should be doin while its out? I'm deleting hicas and just subframe and diff bushings It's a daily driven car, won't see much track Didn't realise what I was getting myself in to with this rebuild lol

Should mention it's a daily car, I like suspension stiff though (even though it nearly kills me lol) won't really get on the track much except for 1/4 passes

Hey guys, I'm reshelling my R33 after it got written off Anyway I dropped the rear subframe yesterday, I knew the subframe bushings were gonna be cactus and they sure are. Anyways I'm thinking I want to go with a hard bushing kit, I like it riding stiff, it's got BC gold coilovers in the rear, I want to do the diff bushings too Been told GKtech are ok but what do u guys think? I don't want to do this again, because it's taken ages working all this shit out I think the front end is all Nolathane, don't know how bad they are yet because I haven't dropped the front yet Any input would be awesome, also is there anything else I should be doin while its out? I'm deleting hicas and just subframe and diff bushings Didn't realise what I was getting myself in to with this rebuild lol

Yea I've got a shell to transfer on to Yay factory sunroof time

So I ended up paying $1800 for the wreckage

Yea who knows that's just what I got told I found it hard to believe too

Yea I spoke to the panel beater Apparently close to $15k just in suspension and steering damage cos they have to use brand new parts reckons they'll take $500 to $1000 for it but who knows thanks guys

Yea I'm kinda thinking the same thing around $2-$3k Another question too, if we can't agree on a price where does my car go?