bubbabooga

hey all iv just brought myself a hr31 for dirt cheap and its interior and body is mint condition... its got the stock red top rb20 in it.. i got it so cheap cuz motor aint running.. the guy i brought it from said he brought it not running and has not even looked at fixing it... is their any comon things to check??. it has done genuine 200 thousand kays and is 100% completlly stock... i know most basics like fuel pump and presure... all fuses. if its sparking... knkow how to trace most things.. but on the old red top is their any super comon problems that always f**k up on them?? i pick the car up tomoro night so ill get started on checking shit... cheeers in advance

yeah im prob getting it tuned next thursday...i have gtr injectors and dropping resistor to go in aswelll... im not to fussed as it only happens somtimes... ill put up with it till i get remap cheers mate

on the hks turbo it has a small oil restrictor block on it.... it came with braided oil feed that uses the factory banjo bolt.... how could i go about finding out how my old turbo failed... take it to the turbo store and get them to check it out??? i have already taken the to4e to turbo store and they are replacing the front seal.. cost somtihng lke 50 for he sal then the labour..if it fails again il get the whole core rebuilt.... should i maybe buy/borrow a oil presure gauge?? what could cause low oil presure cheeers

nah mate... its in my cefiro... no factory bov... iv just done a big upgrade to hks mani, hks external gate and hks to4e and its doing it ever since then.. it came with a stainless intake pipe....

hey all.. im thinking about moving my afm into my cooler piping as i get the fluctuations when driving then clutch in.. like revs drop somtimes stalls... wondering if their is anything wrongwith just cutting afm wires and lengthining them???? would that change voltage or anything at all... chheeeeeeerrrss tom

hey do rb26 flywheels fit other rb motors... ie rb20???? cheeers mate

haha dropping the bombs.. yeah iv thought about that... but blowing the seal, wouldnt that maybe either blocked oil return.. ie over oilingthe core of the turbo... would have thought low presure would have un oiled the bearings and burnt them out.. all my cooler piping is filled with oil and a small pool of oil on my turbo inlet.. their for iv put it down to blown front oil seal.. going up now to drop it off at my local turbo store to get new seals and if need be new bearings and a whole rebuild... whats a price ny one else has paid for a turbo rebuild?? its a hks to4e turbo cheers mate

hey all.. recentlly blew my front turbo seal on my rb20 turbo at the track.. replaced it with hks low mount manifold hks external gate and to4e turbo.... the wastegate spring is at 10psi and im running no boost controller, as it is not tuned yet it did not see revs past 5 since i have had it running again..... now after having it all on and running for all of 2 days the same thing has happened. ie cooler piping flooded with oil, white smoke after take off... any ideas on prices to replace oil seals in turbo?? or if has to get some sort of part number to order such and such oil seal for the turbo?? i live in a smallish town that only has a diesel and turbo service store...??? give them a try ya rekon.. price to replace oil seal??? cheers for any help if any one can give any.. tom

bump-a-rooni

hey all.. i currently have just finished setting up my new turbo setup on my rb20 cefiro... i have gtr injectors alreayd cleaned and flow tested and the dropping resistor which is need for the gtr injectors.. my question is once i have the injectors installed and resistor pack installed will the car run at all... i know it owuld be extremely rich if it did run at all all i need is for it to run for maybe 2 hours, off boost so i can drive down to get a remap on my stock ecu... cheers in advance

anyone help a brother out.. haha and also what brake master cylinders are direct swap to the a31??

ahhh i can ask, but more than likelly not sorry bro........ any one help with seting up my brake upgrade??

hey yall i currentlly have acces to entire r33 thats being wrecked... i have already gotten the front disks and rotors which i will just be redrilling to 4 stud to suit my cefiro. now im not sure what to do with the rears. as i beleive my cefiro is the same drum disk setup as r32.. what can i do as a brake upgrade for my rears>??? just use all r33 disks (redrilled), calipers and handbrake shoes.. or do i need entire r33 rear craddle......??? what can i doin means of upgrading master and slvae cylinders aswell?? like what bolts straight in.. cheers in advance

to me yeow

hey mate... awhile ago got nw water pump installed and ever since then had the same symptoms.. weird idle if you moved the timing anywhere away from full advance... recentlly got new timing belt and all that.. turns out the guys that done my water pump put my timing belt on my exhaust cam one tooth off... all fixed now.. runs like a dream id say your exhaust cam is out by a tooth..

yes.. its a fair clean ceffy.. i wouldnt mind eventusally dropping in a rb25... but its a matter of cash like everything else. haha make the rb20 boogy a bit first.. have fun with it will i got it cheers guys

haha yeah rb20 slug. took it to a local work shop but they could not find a thing wrong with it... no ecu fault codes showed up... well when i was playing with it in my driveway it turned out to be the plug for my cam angle sensor was rooted and my timing belt was possibly put back on wrong as if i tried to back the timing off anywhere away from as far advanced as it would go the car would start doing the eratic idle.... i have just brought brand new gates racing timing belt and have rb25 turbo and greddy front mount to go on soonish along with a speedlab ecu remap.. cheeers for all your help guys yeow

and also while im waiting for a reply for the ecu codes i checked all cooler piping.. even on the throttle body.. both for the cooler every connector i could see.. their all clearlly old. but no cracks inside or out....

i just wrote don how many times them leds flashed and that i got 2 slow flashes 3 fast flashes 4 fast flashes 5 fast flashes 1 slow flash 2 fast flashes ?? dont know what the shit that means

yeah i had the r34 cooler in... then i swapped back to the stock smic cuz this stupid problem.. which i cant figure out what to do... when i turned the cam angle sensor as far clock-wise as possible it made more power and even more drive ability but its still nothing like it used to... engine has around 90,xxx kays on it.. only has a pod and turbo to tip zorst.. changed plugs for brand newies around 1000 kays ago.. do oil and iflter every 4000 kays,, suck a f**king annoyhing thing.. i dont understand whats the go with this ecu diagnostic shit.. their is a tiny red and green led light on the actuall ecu.. they flash and shit when i turn that small screw all the way clock wise o the ecu.. the cat temp sensor light in the dash flashes on and off.. i dont know how to decifer them fault codes and that... what to count and all that :S im shit i know haha cheeeeers

hey can any one tell me exactly how to set ecu to diag mode and tell what error codes i have... :S cheers

sorry how exactly do i do that... all that is on the ecu is a adjustable know.. which how it was, was as far anti clock wise as possible.. not sure if i should play with that :S.. let me know yo.. cheers

i resoldered all the connections in afm.. did not change a thing... i hgave moved the cam angle sensor as far as it will go right... power and drive ability ha picked up a tiny bit.. still wont hold steady idle... it doesnt seem right that the timing is that far advanced...

hey thats a great idea man.. i have pulled off the afm cover and the solders seem fine. im waiting on a solering iron form a mate so i will touch up the solders any ways.. will let you know how i go.. i called mechanics in my area.. their all busy for the next week or so.. sucks.

gidya yo... with the aac valve can i just pull it off with the bolts under the elec plug and vaccum lines clean it out good and proper.. is resetting idle with tps a must do.... ? my quesiton is can i clean it whack it all back in.. dont NEED to reset anything? cheers a heap