GTR_JOEY

OH HELL YEA!

Apexi AVC-R anyone? Ive got one and i find it to be pretty damn cool,.. even better when u know how to use everything on it Pricey but got some pretty cool features, cant remember all the shit it can do so i copied this off RHD Description APEXi AVC-R Boost Controller. This can be used on virtually all turbo vehicles. Here is what Apexi has to say about their product: The AVC-R is a digital boost controller that allows the user to modify the boost pressure level on turbocharged vehicles. While there are many boost controllers on the market, none of the other includes as many features as the AVC-R, period. Despite all of the complex features included the unit, the AVC-R is flexible enough to be used by beginners. Entry level users need only to input a desired boost level and the AVC-R's trademark self learning CPU processor does the rest. The AVC-R also uses a highly durable, fast action solenoid valve to physically control the boost . The valve movement (Boost Duty Cycle) can also be modified. Raising the duty cycle increases boost response, while lowering the duty cycle will slow boost response. This feature allows boost response adjustment for varying turbo sizes. Since larger turbos take longer to spool up ( bad low end response) the duty cycle should be raised under lower RPM's for better response. The opposite should be done for smaller turbo's ( excellent low - mid range response, but limited top end power.) A'PEXi engineers address this issue by including extra menus for RPM based boost control. Drag racers may want to utilize the Gear based boost control function. Aside from the basic functions above, the AVC-R has a Start Duty Setting (allows the boost to momentarily overshoot according to gear). The AVC-R also includes a Scramble Boost function which allows the user to momentarily raise or lower the boost level at the push of a button. Raising the boost level is commonly used when an extra burst of power is needed (ex. entering a freeway). This feature can also be used in drag racing. The driver can set the main boost level to a low setting for maximum traction then, once full traction is achieved, the scramble boost can allow the vehicle to boost full power. The AVC-R displays data in three different modes: Numerical, Analog, and Graph. Numerical Mode allows the user to monitor up to four different parameters in numbers and also shows peak hold values on demand. The Analog Mode displays up to two values in an easy to read meter style display. Peak Hold is also included in this function. The Graph Mode offers real time graph plotting with a Ghost map trace feature built in. The graph can replay movement up to 60 seconds.

haha gambling? its your spigot bearing.. thrust/throw out/release bearing.. what ever you wanna call it only engages when ur foot is on the clutch Next time u do a clutch or have ur gear box out replace it its not expensive to buy... more of a pain in the arse to replace if u dont have the right tools haha

Yep exedy make pretty good clutches, good clamping force, good to use on the street If i didnt buy my nismo then an exedy woulda been my next option

Not sure if anyone cares but ive done a bit more research and yes they TOYO make OEM radiator/intercooler items for various companys Also found a thread on the Canadian GTR forum where one fellow reckons TOYO were the original supplier for N1 Group A racing way back, for both intercoolers and radiators Had a quick look at the inner core of the TOYO compared to a Just Jap one i also have and they look completly different (shoulda taken pictures)

righto well if $1000 is what your lookin to spend ya cant really go past an exedy

If something is leaking, or has low fluid or needs bleeding the clutch pedal will be pushed deeprer untill its released,.. and not disengage properly... Pretty sure the only reason for that pushrod on the back of the pedal is to adjust the freeplay, though u should be able to use it as a temporary fix though your pedal hights will be at different heights if the friction plate is pretty worn it the clutch pedal wil bite a bit higher

How much u got to spend?, i personally have had a exedy and a nismo, both are good clutches though im sticking with a nismo coppermix as i found it a little bit more drivable on the street

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price drop Pump now 80 and includes postage Also have a standard GTR intercooler... good upgrade for GTS-t's $60 for the cooler, would prefer pick up PM or text

sorry i didnt get back to ya mate cooler is sold cheers Mods close thread

I got mine done by the same people mate, havent installed them or run them yet so comment on how well they work the way i saw it was 1. I can either go to the trouble to sell my standard ones, buy second hand z32 ones, screw around with plugs etc 2. Buy genuine nismo ones that are more then $1000 dollars as a pair from memory Or 3 get them cleaned recalibrated and have them still looking stock and able to bolt straight back up to my apexi intake system... remember though ull need to pay for postage to send your standard ones off and get them sent back cheers

easy answer dude, crime rate and car theft.... so many dodgy wreckers in sydney as well. some if given the chance will pick up a car with a forklift if it has been sitting on the street in their area for more then a day. Freakin Game mofo's!!!!!!!

140, its not brand new but its in good condition Im pickin it up

Ok thanks, still gotta be better then the standard cooler for that sort of power?... it would have to be!

I agree with mark, if you got the tools, jack, stands better to do it ya self BTW where the hell have u been Robo, havent seen ya at work for freakin ages

Hmm ok, let me elaborate Im goin to be using it for a 400rwkw set up so i guess my question is will it be able to support that amount of power and is it worth getting it over keeping my standard cooler? cheers

Hi Guys I have the opportunity to buy a cheap cooler for my R32 GTR The company that makes them is called TOYO radiators and theyre based in Japan Just wanted to konw it anyone had used them before or know anything about them? The cooler size is 600x300x100 Cheers

Generally if a gear is popping out it would be a problem with the detents Does your gear box have a short shifter in it? If so they generally needed to be adjusted within specs so the gear doesnt pop out

Yeah i understand that. Just thought it might be a good idea while ive got it out to get it stripped and checked out before it copes a beating Also the fella thats goin to do it for me is goin to do a mod to stop the 4th syncro from wearing out which seems to be a pretty common problem

+1 Not exactly hard, should have been the first thing u did really

Mate sh!t like this is more common then most people think. I recently pulled out my engine and was shocked to find that one of the engine mounts didnt have a nut on the stud. How frigan hard is it to put a nut on a stud! also found that the inlet cam had rust on the lobes after pulling the head off I pulled off my front bumper the other day to find that the reinforcement bar behind the bumper wasnt even bolted on, Find two bolts NOT HARD! If you want a job done properly ya have to do it ya self

righto, well in that ill just get mine stripped down and checked with new bearings and a fourth gear mod so the mofo doesnt keep crunchin.. should be interesting to see how long it lasts

Yeah no doubt lol, be the way to go if your not too streched for cash

Got mine from RHD, installed it today and was easy as hell, straight drop in http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-high-flow-volume-fuel-pump-kit-s14-ecr33-15675 Will be one of the cheapest places to get it