GTR_JOEY

Bump... No ones interested in the cat???

Sold!! Good luck with the rims Rick Also thanks Matt, one of the very few who actually called me with genuine interest.. To the time wasters and low ballers.. I hope you find a better pass time in your miserable lives Mods please close thread

Ok found a workshop manual, As per the fault diagnostic ice checked PIN number 42 for ground at the back of the ATTESSA ECU There was ground there so tomorrow I will need to get under the car to check PIN number 3 and 4 for earth at the ETS hydraulic unit plug

Hmmm our theories just went out the window It seems to be that initial priming of the ATTESSA is determining weather or not the 4wd is going to work or not If I start the car up and and it doesn't and the 4wd light doesn't come on within the first 5 seconds it won't come on at all.. The fault is very tempremental so I'm considering looking for another switch as it seems the most Likely cause atm... This would appear obviouse considering the fault code but I've read many threads where people have replace the switch with a known working one and still had the fault lol

Ok so there was the tiniest leak coming from the nipple below the pump so I have it a tighten.. Also noticed a large build up of gunk on the rear right hand abs/wheels speed sensor on the drive shaft.. Gave it a good clean and now the trouble has seemed to did appear.. What that has to do with error 18 "ETS pressure switch or circuit" I have no idea Will give it another couple of days before I claim victory Haven't bled it yet

im pretty confident its leaking dude, but ill give it a bleed and see how we go

After some more research ive found the its usually the pressure switch thats at fault and generally the pump needs to be replaced Its a pretty big job from what ive been reading from, i just find it very odd that its all of a sudden happened now after i done all these mods Righto so after closer inspection there seems to be some oil leaking on the rear diff.. it doesnt actually look like its coming from the rear diff as there oil all over the top bushes... im guessing there is a small leak in the pressure switch or there abouts really need to get the car up in the air for a proper inspection.. the fluid level has also dropped in the reservoir so thats really a dead give away that theres a leak somewhere... will report back on closer inspection

Anymore info on this? ive had a few issues the last couple of days and im getting error code 18 18 – ETS pressure switch or circuit is it generally the switch that is faulty or can it be dodgy wiring, im guessing it could be either or... its a bit of an intemidant fault atm, generally when i start it up cold its good to go, but if i stop then try to start it up again it generally comes on from quick research the switch is above the final drive this has only started to happen since a removed the engine and did a few mods while it was out.. i also pulled out all the solenoids in the Hicas system though surely that isnt the problem i havent disconnected any off the ATTESSA LINES so im assuming its all bled and ready to go, I "assume" but i will do a bleed anyway.. just looking for peoples experiences with this

Haha cheers Matt, it actually looks clean in the pics... Must be the photographer

I have a JUN, had no problems and I don't think I ever will.. Tomei is probably the best and I'd buy one if I had to choose again As stated above, any pump will eventually fail if rev limit bashed enough/bad harmonics or wrong collar clearances

Awesome!! Cheers for the photos

That's a good number Eric, the day turned out to be very successful

I have 4wd sometimes atm and my semis are bald on the back

I got 17 but no video as my phone died at 3 o clock today!! Arg

Ahh sweet, I didn't realise you were going.. Are you coming with our crew? I think I'm staying with Stevo, Paul a d yavuz

Yea he was/is, ill have to give him a buzz and see what he's up too

Haha thanks mick, but I just bought my Evo fronts.. Besides I've spent and about to spend enough cash lately... And I know what those Alcons are worth

I'm doing mine tomorrow, I f**k#d up my hand being a smart ass and doing clap heaves

Yes I can clearly see from that photo.. Cheers

Haven't yet tested them with decent tyres mate.. The cheap rubbish I have on there atm locks under any sort of hard braking

Yes cosmetically I only wanted brembos for the rear, but if its deemed un necessary then I will leave as is Duncan I do see your point, I haven't moved anymore weight around so I think you are right in the fact I probably don't really need to upgrade them. I thought there may have been some distinct advantage in having a bigger rear set up but if you guys reckon there's not then I might just leave them and put some upgraded pads on them Cheers for the replys

Ok, i have now reached the dilemma of needing to upgrade the brakes on my r32 GTR the current front set up is evo 10 350mm rotors with Evo 9 4 pot Brembo calipers.. Using Alpha Omega dog bones to make them fit Piston sizes are 2x40mm + 2x46mm now originally i was looking at getting some R34 vspec 2/N1 rear brembos that measure 322mm, with 2 pot caliper, though these have been difficult to come by so my second option is FG Typhoon brembos that are a 4 pot caliper with 330mm rotors, Brad from profab has dog bones that will make them fit so thats no issue whats peoples opinions, are the typhoon brakes too big, has anyone given this a go? will they stuff up the bias of the brakes i want to use the car for the odd track day but it will be mostly street.. and i wanna keep it all brembo btw cheers

Quick update, wheels are a 2 peice and the offset is 17 not 15

Impressive!

I'm not familiar with 34s but from that picture it looks like the power steering and ac compressor belts are desperate.. Your power steering should pivot closer to the block so you can remove the belt That idler you have circled should be able to be loosened by the front bolt Not sure why you couldn't get the alternator belt off.. It's just a matter off loosening off the two bolts in the picture as well as the bolt that it pivots on.. To make them tight again use a lever bar to get tension