halz

oh fantastic....

My car is currently locked up too. The car went in on the Monday to be returned on the Wednesday when they were locked out. I have spoken to the solicitors with little success, originally assured that they would be returned Monday or Tuesday this week. I'd be interested to hear what the other owners are doing to have our vehicles returned ASAP.

I have a red Apexi strut tower brace in good condition for sale. I will get some pictures and put them up tonight. Looking for $150 or nearest offer, but need to have it all organised by the end of the week as I am going overseas. Edit: Currently its on my R33 GTS-t..

Chris has been incredibly helpful, definitely have no problem buying from him again. Thanks Chris!! Free bump

Looking for the pipe that goes from the turbo outlet to the intercooler pipe. This is to suit an Apexi turbo which does not have bolt holes like the standard turbo + elbow. Should be a straight pipe with the bend of the correct length (fair bit of tolerance due to the joins though. Would love to get my hands on one of these genuine Apexi ones: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=29784 Pretty keen to get this sorted ASAP so let me know what you have that might suit! Edit: Also looking for replacements for the two stock pipes that go from the plenum to stock intercooler and turbo to intercooler. Some nice stainless ones to replace the stock black pipes

I went to enzed and got a double ended thread which threads into the block and then the water line can be attached to that - one done! If I remove the banjo end from the water line that runs behind the block and clamp it to that, then that is done. Waiting to hear back from my workshop to see if that has how they did it on the car the turbo came from... should be okay. Now, another problem, if that wasn't enough. The original oil line that goes to the top of the turbo all lines up beautiful. Problem. The bolt that goes from the original oil line banjo to the turbo is too big for the thread in the turbo!! I spoke to the guys at pirtek and enzed and they don't have any magical bolt that is the right size for the banjo end and the smaller thread for the turbo. What was apexi thinking!! Now I am trying to see if this mysterios banjo bolt went missing at the workshop or the previous owner has it - crossing fingers at this stage. Failing that I am going to go the same route as the first water line - bolt a connect into the block and turbo and run a braided line between them. I just want to see this baby go damnit

I have exactly the same results. The Apexi RSM + PowerFC read the exact same speed (as expected), but the dash is reading ~ 5km/h more ( edit: got mixed up :Oops: ) at 100km/h. Would love to know which one is correct as well!

Thanks BHDave. Just been out there now, the braided line is definitely not long enough to get around the back of the block, lucky to make it far from the turbo at all given the bends. The braided hose as given to me has been cut and has two big clamps (type with philips head screw) on the end - the hose would be perfect fit to slide over the existing metal line. So tempting to just hack saw the end of the banjo and clamp the braided line to the end. Just a little apprehensive as once its done it'd be a difficult to replace!

Anyone?

I got gaskets from Michael at GCG - very helpful - though I'm not sure if he will have gaskets for the N1 turbos.

Hi, I have just acquired an Apexi AX53B70-P25 turbo and starting the install. The standard oil lines will all match up fine, but my problem is the braided water lines that came with the turbo. They are the type that screw onto a thread (sort of like a gas pipe). One of them has an end cut off. My guess from this is: - I have to get a fitting to screw one line into the block in place of the stock line. (Where can I get one?) - Either cut or unscrew (possible?) the banjo off the line that goes around the back of the block and clamp the braided to the stock line. - Should the water line from the block go into the top water line on the turbo or vice versa? You can just see the braided lines here and I'll get some pictures up tonight: http://www.apexi.co.jp/pro_apexi/turbo/ax_...070/shouhin.jpg Thanks for any input!!

There is a sheet in the box with the recommended settings - also see the above comments. You should experiment with the stiffness etc. to suit the way you like it

Sorry, window box is sold.. i had an apexi dual funnel pod btw

Nup sorry, I'm keeping that for my new box

I have two cold air boxes that I have spare. I have a carbon fibre one arriving soon and no longer need these. Windowed cold air box, as can be seen here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=57642 Painted black and with thumb/allen key screws instead (makes it abit quicker to remove). Also comes with cut to shape heat resitant foam. I haven't stuck this to the actual box yet, you need metal->foam glue that you can get from Clark rubber $150 + Post This was purchased as part of group buy. The group buy no longer seems to be anywhere on the forums, though I am sure there are some other people in Victoria running these. I can throw in some heat resistant foam too if interested. $100 + Post Notes: - These both fit without a problem with the stock intercooler piping. - The only problem I found was the stock turbo actuator got in the way of the window box, but it still fit okay - just a bit fiddly. - The disadvantage of the non-window box is that you have to disconnect all your intercooler pipes to get it in - though you end up with a tighter fit box. - Both boxes have a few misc scratches + dints, though the window box is freshly painted.

From memory the spec sheet said 33.5cm centre wheel to guard. From the posts I've read (mostly Sydneykids!), the reccommendation is 34 - 35cm. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...center+to+guard Also checkout these: http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/HPI_1..._Skyline01a.htm http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/Fact_Shee...line_R33GTS.PDF Hope that helps

Well your way made a lot more sense! Glad I still came up the correct answer though I really like this suspension, its hard but not too hard even for my 100km/h country roads. Compared to with my previous stuffed stocks with lowered springs its pure bliss, I don't have much else to compare too I'm afraid. I had the front and rear set at 2 points (12 point adjustable from memory) from the softest setting. The rear was also set way too low (probably 30cm centre to guard). I found that in a straight line under acceleration you could feel the rear compress significantly and it was very difficult to get any wheel spin at all (i have allow subframe bushes too) - probably pretty good for the drags but not so great round the corners. I've since changed the rear to about the 5th or 6th point (in the middle - probably too hard this time!) and the the front to the 4th setting. I've also adjusted the height according to the spec sheet ~ 33.5-34cm centre to guard front & rearl. Very much looking forward to testing this out at the next track day... once I've replaced the turbo I'm looking at getting some upgraded front and rear sway/stabiliser bars from whiteline - would this be the next logical progression or would I be better off to get some more caster in the front?

bump.. updated.. still got more stuff to sell

Sydneykid: Pretty much all the information is available here: http://www.tein.co.jp/ssdamp2ne.html And just because I am nice, I worked out all the conversions (there may be an easier way!!). According to the booklet I received with the suspension they are 4kgf/mm front and rear. From the references: 1kgf/mm = 9.80665N/mm Therefore: 4kgf/mm = 39.22660N/mm From the references: 1N/mm = 5.714 lbf/in Therefore: 39.22660N/mm = 224.1407lbf/in Therefore the answer is 224lb springs front and rear. References: http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Tech...e_conversio.htm http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu..._reference.html PS: Thanks for all the excellent posts Sydneykid, when I see your posts I stop and read them from start to finish.

I am replacing my turbo at the moment too. I ordered replacement gaskets from GCG - the manifold->turbo gasket was $15, oil drain gasket $1.35 - and he sent them COD the same day. They are up in Sydney, I am expecting it to arrive tomorrow

They feel great to me, though I haven't had much to compare against. I have never used adjustable suspension before, but I found that it can make a huge difference on the track. Was understeering terribly on the track, a few turns of the damper and the understeer was almost gone. The ride is actually better (not as hard) as my old stuffed shocks and lowered springs. So was a huge improvement everywhere in my R33.

I had severe axel tramp the same as what you are talking about. I got some alloy rear subframe bushes (metal versions of the poly pineapples from whiteline) and it was a WORLD of difference. For ~$100 you will be very surprised the difference that they will make, especially for launching. I installed them myself, all you need is a jack etc. and around an hour - there are HOWTO's on the web and other places.

Pics for me too: [email protected] - also the part# if you have it. Thanks.

I didn't think there was a brake cylinder stopper for an ECR33 or does the other models suit this one as well? I haven't seen them on the parts websites, whats the model number?

I purchased from Nengun, no receipt. I bought it with a Nismo fuel pump that went in and the workshop seemed to think I didn't need the FPR so didn't put it in. It's only ever been out of the box for me to have a look at - never been put on a car. The RSR springs were on the car when I got it ~20k km ago. From what he said he hadn't modified anything since it had arrived in Japan and he had driven it for around 10k km. So anywhere from 110k km to 30k km Best I can do, sorry!!