LRyder

How much would this cost to get done? Interested.

Quick update. Have emailed GCG and they have offered a 18psi actuator, but it is $250 plus shipping, what are your thoughts?

Yes my thoughts exactly. Another option I have been toying with is using a T3 wastegate adaptor, that sits between the manifold and turbo. That plus an external gate, is that all that is needed to run? Or do you need to block of the flapper port on the turbo? Still very unsure which is an ideal way to run this setup.

Also can anyone recomend any other after market actuators other then HKS?

Yeah. Well no mater what I will have a boost controller as that has already been paid for. I could still run a boost controller with a cheap eBay gate to regulate and prevent spiking. But still interested to see peoples opinions on actuators as it would be a much cheaper solution. has anyone tried those XTR actuators on http://www.tweakit.net/ ?

I would love to go external gate. but the price of a gate and the necessary modifications to make it work would nearly cost more then the price of the turbo. How much did that setup cost you? If you dont mind me asking.

Hi Team! Have purchased a Rb25GCG turbo for my RB20. The car will be used for street and track, but mostly track, so will be tuned for the one psi setting. Now I no internally gated turbos do suffer from boost control issue, and I am keen to here you thoughts on options for controlling boost. The turbo has not been fitted yet, so I want to get it right from the start To start with I have purchased a Greddy Profec B Spec II. But with running a standard rb20 actuator I no I will suffer from spiking and boost tapering off at higher revs. To give you something to work with, I want to run 18psi, no more. I would like to here your guys/girls opinions on aftermarket actuators. I no brands such as XTR make 18psi actuators, but wondering the reliability. I have heard actuators can suffer and be quite temperament in different weather conditions. Also what do you guys think of running a 16psi actuator and using the boost controller to hold the last 2psi. I want to run the boost controller mainly to eliminate spiking, but keen to here any thoughts or options. (Even external gate if you think 18psi actuator is pushing the limits) Please feel free to flame, as I tried searching to no avail. Thanks.

+1 Same boat also. Car will see street use, so a half cage might be a better option. Have also considered taking back seats out and rego it as a 2 seater.

I am selling this for a mate, just ring his mobile or msg him if ur interested. If you PM I will just give you his details. Any questions welcome. Make: Nissan Model: 180sx Milage: 180,000km Body 80,000km Engine Transmission: Manual Colour: Electric blue Location: Eastern Suburbs Complied? Yes RWC supplied? Yes Currently registered? Yes 12 months rego Price: $15,000 ONO Contact: Jack Balsamo – 0432343921 Comments / Modifications: Nissan 180sx 180 000km Body, (Blacktop SR20 DET), 80 000km Motor, 1992 Electric Blue Coupe, 12 months registration, plates: JBSR20, with road worthy, $15000 ONO. - 17 inch crystal vaults with almost new tyres - New battery - 3 ½ inch gready turbo back system. - Gready Front mount - Full button clutch - Gready short shifter - Drift pod filter with M-spec Cover - Turbo timer - Drift boost gauge (crystal screen) - Adjustable caster bars Plus car comes with all stock parts air box, stock intercooler etc. Also all after market parts are pretty much brand new, only just put on car. Car has also had the rear seats taken out and is registered as a 2 seater. (I still have the seats and seat belts) Plus many extras…. Images: Coming soon... just need upload them

I found this to be helpful. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=185697 I just did mine the other day, the wording in the guide is a bit tricky for where to loop the lines. But when you look at the pics it should make sense. Another good idea while you got all the stuff out is to run a power steering cooler, the standard cooler is just a loop of alloy pipe near your ac canister, kind of useless, just hacksaw them off to run a cooler. Follow the guide you should have no problems.

Also interested PM sent.

Was a fun day, dispite the rain, just added to the experience. Did anyone get some happy snaps?

PM sent

Hey Guys I have a set of 3 piece rims, Rays, that I bought of the forum, I would like to take the centres out which are bolted to the rim, with Allen key fronts and bolts at the back. In order to spray them. Is it going to be a problem to take the rims apart with tyres on, as there would be no centre bracing to keep the wheel in shape. Any ideas? Getting the tyres removed is an option, but just wondering if I can get around it. Cheers.

I have similar mods, 34SMIC, and 3" turbo back on stock ecu, with a turbo tech bleed valve. I used to get lots of popping/boost cut/ or what ever u guys wanna call it, I fitted new spark plugs, that were gaped to 8mm and it fixed everything can now red line without an issue. This might not help your problem, but it certainly fixed mine.

What: 17" R34 Skyline Rims, pref with tyres. Where: Melbourne Price: Offers. Contact: best via PM as I wont check this post as often Other: Looking for a very quick sale, I have the cash here if the price is right, so if your looking to offload a set of 34 stockies in Melbourne I am happy to take them off your hands ASAP!

PM sent about wheels very keen.

R32 GTST and GTR front coils are the same, sell your current set of coilovers. And buy a full set of GTRs, or try source a 2nd hand pair of GTR coilovers. (I just bought some front only budy clubs 2nd hand) from a GTR set from the wreckers down here, they still have the rears if ur lucky.

Anyone?

Can cuscos be rebuilt in Australia? At close inspection it looks like a rubber seal has shat it self. I might have to take them back to the wreckers, as he said they were tested before he sold em to me (BS)

Hey guys, recently put a set of cusco front coil overs in my R32 4 door. The front right went in fine, as did the front left, but after driving it around, the front left appeared to be bottoming out over big pot holes, and certain dips in the road. The centre shaft appeared to be poking up out of the strut top, and when u push firmly down it goes back down into the strut, and slowly rises. I got an Allen key, which fits in the center shaft thread, and tightened the bolt around it, which seemed to compress it all down. (while the spring/strut was uncompressed (car jacked)) after a short drive it came back again, and I can not do up the thread and nut anymore. I will post some picks up tomorrow, but was thinking worst case scenario this front coil over is blown?

Yeh was thinking the one hose option, but was more wondering if 2 would work to increase flow from the different ports on the rocker covers. This catch can is available fairly cheap, and I like the idea it is open-able

I am pretty sure the r33 turbo is a straight bolt on, I highly doubt the manifold of the red top or silver top is different. But I am sure some one will correct me if I am wrong.

Hey guys just a quick question for the tech heads. Can I run an open to atmosphere with this style of catch can... with a breather on the top next to a hose, and the other hose on the bottom. Because I often see a open to atmosphere setup with two hoses either at the top or bottom with the breather totally separate. And was wondering is it an issue to have one hose at the top, and one at the bottom. I will run it with steel wool style filter inside as well. Just looking for some input.

PM about turbo. Cheers.