LRyder

Anyone? I have cash waiting, looking for a quick sale? Maybe you want to split your car CBF selling it? I can help you take engine out I have a crane. BUMP

Just a heads up, the Hitachi nissan units are peice of poo. Get a Bosch one off for a VL, and get your local auto elec to make you up an adaptor plug, the unit is straight bolt in, just need a new plug made for the loom.

Hi Guys, here is my 32 4 door manual. Currently not rego, but has been previously. Car has been set up for drift, perfect balance of power, handling and brake mods. Most reliable track car, never missed a beat. I have all the standard parts to return it to stock, this will be included in the sale, makes geting it rwc easy. Thousands have been spent on it, just take a look at all the parts. Well over 15k in parts. Other good point is its a personal import, it does not have all that heavy side intrusion bs. Reason for sale, really want a clean street rego'd 2 door 32. Price. $10,000 ono for quick sale. Swap for clean r32 2 door. Engine: Serviced reguarlly, makes 210rwkw on 16psi · Rb25 GCG Highflow turbo (less then 15000km) · GCG 14psi actuator · Sard 650cc Injectors · Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator · Z32 AFM · Custom Intake/cold air AAA Pod filter · Cusco Catch can · Adjustable cam gears · Gates Timing belt · Gready FMIC · Splitfire coilpacks · Turbotech boost controller - Nisstune ECU Gearbox/Driveline: · Rb25 gearbox (less then 80,000km)· Short shifter · Nightworks Urathane Gearbox mount · Welded Diff Suspension/Brakes: · Coilovers; Buddy Club front, and JIC rear · Front Nismo strut brace · CUSCO rear strut brace · Alloy rear sub frame bushes · Urathane upper control arm bushes (front) · DBA 4000 slotted rotors Brand new less then 300km (front and rear) · QFM A1RM 650 degree hi temp pads, (front and rear) less then 300km · HICAS completely removed, lock bar and all solenoids and lines removed Interior: · Cusco full cage 6 point with harness bar, (currently just running half cage but rest will be included) · Rear trims + seats removed but will be included · Drift handbrake button · Autogauge gauges: Water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, air/fuel and boost. · Golf Ball shift knob · Pioneer CD/MP3 headunit · Pioneer 6x9 rear speakers · Momo deep dish steering wheel (same dimensions as nardi deep corn) - Recaro SR (3 or 4 not sure awsome condition like new, genuine with genuine rail) Body: - Drift teks 17x9 x4 +35 · GTR Bonnet - GTR front bar (bit scuffed up) · Top Secret Grill · lipped front and rear guards - guandor side mirors Stock parts lieing around can be indluded · Suspension/spair disk rotors · Stock wing · Stock trims · Stock engine parts inc, turbo, AFM, injectors, SMIC · Airconditon lines/condsor/unit - Bonnet, front bar, front reo + heaps more In addition to the above, also have the following not installed. · Grex Oil cooler and relocation kit · BnM line locker · R33 stock wheels x2 - R32 stockies x4 Few pictures below... Damage isnt tooo bad, side skirts cover most the bottom sil damage, rest can be beaten out or boged over. Up to you. Drives straight, chassis isnt bent.I have a set of final Konexxion side skirts I will include in the sale, just need to be sprayed and fitted. $10,000 ono swaps?

Swap for 32 4door drift/track car, no rego, but complied and previously been rego. 210rwkw cage, coils, Rb25 box + heaps more all drift mods.

R33 or 32?. I have a 32 in Melb.

Bump, anyone got a shell ?? Or willing to swap for RB30DET or 4 door shell + Cash?

Yeh it adds up, I have most the stuff already, i have an ACL rebuild kit, rings, pistons and bearings, using this is still cheaper then buying new rings and bearings. When all I will be paying for is a hone and bore. If I use my ACL rebuild kit, all I have to pay for is crank colar and new head studs. Alot cheaper then rings and bearings and use stock 20 year old pistons, so it really isnt cheaper for me anyway as I have some of the stuff. Still in two worlds.

Yeh have decided will rebuild with new rings, race bearings, hone and clean, make sure cranks ballanced. Crank collar and oil restrictors. Still not cheap tho. Running the highflow still worrying me tho.

Running 17x9 35+ ofset, 225 40 tyres, and rubs on chassis at full lock. Thinking about r33 LCA's and lock spacers, or even just R33 LCA's. But s14 rack sounds like a fun job!

If you have a GCG highflow, can you just bolt on the OP6 or AVO rear housing? Or is a bigger exhaust turbine required or machining needed?

Hi guys, these are brand new, still in box, no longer needed. * ACL Duralite cast RB30e pistons and rings, 1mm oversize. Suitable for RB30DET conversion. Will give compression of around 8.3 * ACL Duraglide engine bearings. to suit RB30. .25mm oversize. includes rod bearings. $300.00 ONO for the lot. Melbourn South Eastern Suburbs 0400 200 997 or PM

Still in two worlds about what to do. So many people say dont bother touching the 200K + bottom end, just bolt the head on and go for it! "you will be suprised how much they will handle" Just keep revs below 6500. others Atleast new bearings rings and hone. Also undecided, I can afford either a new turbo gt3076r, or prep the bottom end properly. As my power goal is more of a beefy/reliable 250-270rwkw will using my GCG highflow be of any danger to the motor? Will the power just be too peaky and unusable?

stock Rb20 turbo, good condition, 150 bucks melbourne, PM if interested.

Think I have a stock cooler and piping. PM with offer, I would also swap for a stock airbox if you want.

How urgent do you need it, next few weeks I will be pulling my rb20 out as I am building a rb30, I need most bits off it so can sell you head and block.

Trent do you have any idea of where the power tappers off with this turbo. I am not going for highest KW figure, just somthing usable, but if there isnt much to play with after 5000rpm then would consider mayb a gt35 or a 1.06 A/r for the gt30.

Oh I know! I looked at this also, sooo many options, I am just waiting for someone to sugest that in the previous thread.

haha thats crazy, I just read that thread to only come back here for you to suggest reading it. I think now for me is whether to go a Gt3076 but in .82 or 1.06. Very interesting read tho, I was actually going to refer to it here to see others thoughts. I am also considering internalgate just for simplicity, cost, and stock look low mounted.

Thanks GT-RZ and Bubba thats most helpfull, I think I will freshen up the the stock bottem end, with new rings, bearings and hone. Also looking at my turbo options. Considering a 3076r .82 A/R, when does this turbo make full boost, and what kind of power would I make with this turbo. I would like it to be responsive, and maintain and beefy and linear power curve.

Thanks mate, yeh I always have a spare bottem end to build up if somthing goes in this one. Would it be worth just freshening it up? The bores are abit glazed, and new rings wouldnt hurt. Also if I need to fit a crank collar the whole thing needs to come apart anyways. Thoughts?

This was one of my original concearns in my first post. Is there anything bar changing the turbo to help relieve this? A freerer flowing exhaust manifold (or porting out the stock manifold), heat wrap on the manifold and dump? , larger dump?

Will this turbo likely make 23-250rwkw? and alot of torque?

Hey mate, currently running this turbo on my RB20. Also trying to get my hands on an OP6 rear housing, which would be a cheaper option having it rebuilt then a whole new turbo.

Yeh stock rebuilt? Like ACL, or just freshen up the old stock bottom end? I will be going with a reputable tuner, and I no nisstune can be a limitation, but it does retain stock knock sensors. But yeh the stock internals doesn't leave much room for internals. I would be planing to keep Revs below 7000 (along side all relivent oil control mods) New turbo is really pushing the budget, but is something I am considering in future.