BBQ

The motor is ment to run on 6 cylinders... When you loose a cylinder the firing order is out.. .. The other 5 cylinder are probaly doing thier job.. and that one cylinder is just pumping raw fuel out...Causing it to give an off note eg... Like a rex..

What type of cams have you got ? Tomei ? HKS ? Cam gears arn't need on an Rb25det if your running Pon Cams... So a Turbo (If you are at your limit with your current one ?), Injectors, AFM & fuel pump, would be a good upgrade.

Sumitomo HTRZ II Dry: 2/10 Wet: 9/10 Value for money: 3/10 Size: 255/40/17inch. These tyres in the dry are shocking for traction. but in the wet the are the other way around. The actually spin easier in the dry then what they do in the wet ??? Not the best tyre for handling, But would be good for drift. Is also a good tyre for high speed. from my experience. Although the cost is fairly expensive, around $400 - 450 per tyre if I remember correctly.

More boost... You don't have enough power until your frying tyres in 4th gear... It would be intresting to see how it goes down a 1/4 mile.. Also do you have a dyno graph ?

Bass, I seem to think that they cams you have chosen are too big for your application, Those style cams would work well if you are planning on running a Gt30 Size turbo, as the boost level would be around 25 - 30 psi to take full advantage of the cams. Duration IN,EX 252 Lift 9.15mm, may have been a better choice for a high flow setup. But if your tunner is good enough you may be able to gain a few HP out of the high flow with your current cams. Good luck.

How old are you Plugs ? And what heat range are they

Yes thats correct, So in the case of not having the RPM signal setup, You turn of Learn Gear.

You duty cycle is auto changing because the AVC-R has learn mode turned on. It will auto adjust the Duty to give you the smoothes possible Boost curve under full Throttle. To turn it of: Go to your boost menu, Either A or B, Go down past Boost and the Duty Menu. You will see a menu called Learn Mode. (Learn Gear) They will be a list of gears: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th. and will all have O, O, O, O, O Change them to X, X, X, X, X . that will turn learn mode off. See how you go.

Has any one had a Left over 10w 10RJ Ceramic Resistor ? I'm unable to find it on the Diagram ? And the thing is about 6cm long.. So i'm not sure where it goes ?

No difference, The new Model Power FC's work with S1 and S2 R33 GTS-T.

NismoGirl, Yes, Sau33 = Nat from Cairns, Best time of the night was a dismal 13.4, 2.4, 60 footer @118mph.

Yer but it wasn’t the right bloody one was it!!!! For an R34 when you need one for a S13 !!!

I'm running Arias 4 Thou clearance with the supplied rings and no problem with blow by. Running Castrol Type R synthetic 10w - 60. They are fairly noise on first stratup but let it warm up for about 5mins and they are fine.

Like wise Adrian, I agree with you on that one. With the turbo setup and the cam setup, it should be at least 120mph, with each run the mph should slow get better and better. As you learn the feel of the car. Either their is some restriction, either intake or exhaust. Once your motor get up high into the rev range, or it needs some serious tuning work for top end power. eg, Fuel / timing. What about traction? If it was a full track wheel spinning 115mph I would understand ? But still a good effort.

Yes all nice, with a HKS turbo. But the car of intrest is: SKYLINE R33 GTS-T UAS RB25 Plenum & Intercooler 12 Psi Standard ECU Standard Turbocharger Cat Back Exhaust - Stock Dump Pipes Pod Filter 208.4 KW AT THE REAR WHEELS From UAS web page.

The only way that car could possibly produce those kind of figures are, #1 if it was running C16 which would give high hp increase. #2 the dyno is reading wrong. - "Air intake temp sensor" #3 The base timming has been advanced well past 15* BTDC And, Stock Dump Pipes would be creating that much back pressure, The turbo would be chocking on its self.

Also out of curiosity what were the AFR for that dyno run ? And what fuel was it running for the Dyno Run ?

Its not about maximum boost, each turbo is different. If you’re running a Stock r33 High flow turbo that can push 20psi, And you’re running a T88 that is pushing 20psi. Which one do you think is pushing more air? A T88 at 20psi is equivalent to the high flow pushing 38 psi. You can run as much boost as your want on a stock motor, I will only last you a few days. Until things give way, Eg Head gasket, Piston ring lands, Rods... So on... So their is no set limit on max boost for any motor. As each setup is different. And will have different effects on the motor internally. It’s about reliability, insuring your motor lasts you longer then 1 week, and allowing good performance from it at a safe boost level. Which all comes back down to tunning.

I'm interested in that comment in particular. Greddy being the company they are, Provide lots of aftermarket products, and carry out lots of testing. If their product wasn’t up to standard would the Japanese market use them? The plenum in particular, is very coarse inside, and the runners may be big yes thats true. But it depends on the applications its used for, Eg. If you were running a Gt35/40 with around 28psi boost level, which people do, running on an Rb25, with a ported head and a large set of cams. Would you want a plenum that has restrictive runners or a plenum that has a larger cfm capacity and larger runner capacity, increase Volumetric Efficiency in the head. The USA Plenums are a good setup and look nice, But how well do they perform on a heavily modified motor? As compared to a stock motor?

Go Forged Pistons..... You won't regret it..

What size are you rims and tyres ?

Check the usual first; Make sure you don't have any vacuum leeks for starters. How old are the spark plugs? Maybe try a new set of plugs. Go though and check the coils, look for burn marks / Cracks, anything that doesn’t look normal. Do you know any one else that could lend you a working set of 4, that you could test? Check the connectors on the Coils and check the connectors on the injectors? Also what mods have been done to the car? Eg is it running standard injectors, Is it running an Aftermarket ECU? If it’s still running on 3 cylinders after changing the plugs and a fresh set of coils, get a leek-down compression test preformed. See how you go.

Are you able to post that document up on forum ? would like to check it out.

Your best bet is to re-spring your waste gate actuator, with a stronger spring, to stop it opening so easy, allowing it to spool for longer. As the stock Rb20 Is around 7 - 10psi with stock spring, from memory... bumping it up to 12 - 14 will help.

I'm not sure about the R32 or the R34, but I know that the R33 will fit fine; I haven't compared the R32 or R34 rods against the R33. I would think that the R32 and the R33 should be identical But the R34 I'm not 100% sure on, Maby some one else could confirm that for me? As for the head gasket, if you’re going to be running such a large turbo, I would be looking at a different size head gasket? perhaps 1.8mm ? As you will probably be running around 20+ psi ?