T.D

Ahh I see. I'm going to hook up a temp gauge on either end of the 'cooler so I'll know the exact tempereture that's going in and out fo the core Nah, I don't think it's any carbon build-up as it's far too sudden to cause an issue like this. One thing that has been mentioned to me by Plazmaman though is to check the TPS. If the TPS is responsible for the issues, I wouldn't be surprised as I did attempt to mess around with it when fitting the throttle body onto the plenum. Basically the bottom plug (grey) was getting pushed and resting on top of the radiator hose so I tried to move it by undoing the 2 screws holding the TPS in place. I did not succeed in this as I rounded one of the screw heads. How can I check that the TPS is in working order? I checked it with the hand controller of the PFC but I'm not sure I believe it as another time I unplugged the VCT plug but the hand controller was telling me it was still working lol Also, I heard that manual S2 R33s only use one plug for the TPS, with the grey one as a spare and not having any wires from it. My grey one has wires connected to it though. Anyone shed some light on this?

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Anyone able to help, given the new bit of information from the above few posts? Should also add, if I give the car a quick 2nd gear pull (i.e drive normally 1st gear, fang 2nd gear and then just drive normally through the rest of the gears) and then cruise around for 5-10mins, the hot side of the intercooler end tank becomes warm and the cold side end tank is still relatviley cool. Does that mean the air is superheated and possible cause of timing issue?

$350 for a premium-quality incline/flat/decline bench press with lat pull-down attachments and preacher pad!!! I need new injectors so someone please get this outta here!! Missus all up in my ear about it just taking up space!! Help a brother out!!!!

Yeah, I've considered that actually haha but my first recordings of extremley high knock levels (120+) appeared well before the plenum and cool went on. I have a strong feeling something shat itself around that point and the timing issue was only diagnosed after the plenum went on and it went in for a tune Not sure if this is related, but I saw high knocks not long after I removed the charcoal cannister. I plugged up the line that goes to the throttle body (and the stock manifold at the time) so is there any way that an incorrectly removed cannister and fuel lines associated with it cause knocking? I thought they were lean as shit too, but the insulator is actually white from factory (NGK 7-heat range, gapped to .6mm) so if anything, they look like the second diagnosis with the link you provided (i.e carbon build-up, pointing to rich conditions). Any ideas on that?

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Here are some photos of the spark plugs Spark plug 1 (predominantly white): Spark plug 2 (black but had some ash around it for some reason): Spark plug 3 (black): Spark plug 4 (black): Spark plug 5 (black with minor white marks): Spark plug 6 (light blck/dark grey): And here's the engine bay, hoping someone can see something wrong with it that me and two mechanics/tuners can't? lol Also, in the bottom left hand corner you can see one of the TPS plugs resting on top of the radiator hose (has a bit of foam wedged in between though). I tried to move the TPS but I ended up rounding the head for the screw cos it was that damn tight (FML) so I couldn't move it away from the hose. Any problems with it like that sitting on top of the hose?

Alright then, I see. No worries mate, I'll try get some either later today or tomorrow and I'll post them up Coolant/water temp sits between 80-degrees and 83-degrees in regular traffic but when on the freeway doing 100km/h it sits at around 86-degrees and when cruising at 110km/h, it sits at around 88-degrees. I'll post a pic up of the engine bay soon but on the topic of TPS, I have 2 plugs off the side of the T/B (for the TPS I'd say) and when installing the T/B onto the plenum, I had to stuff around with the TPS a bit so could a bad TPS be causing the weird issues I'm having? Or is that a bit too far fetched? The timing issue was present well before I got the temps from above. The temps used to sit around 81-84 degrees constantly, regardless of speed. As for carbon build-up, not sure as we haven't cracked it open yet. Don't really plan to for another 12 months or so either, when I scratch some funds for a Spool 2.8 stroker hehe I see. We had a comp test done and it was all very even across the board, with the lowest reading coming from cylinder 3, though it still wasn't too far off from the other so the mtoor is healthy. No oil/blow-by either. Yeah, I've toyed around with the idea of individual AFR/EGT sensors for each cylinder but lost interest as soon as I was told the massive costs involved LOL

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Hmmm, sounds interesting. Could you elaborate a bit more? I do notice my rocker covers are very hot after driving. Timing has been checked and even been as far changing the timing belt and the tensioners as well. Car doesn't misfire at all, it just won't take any timing So, what actually causes an injectors duty cycle to increase? Is it boost, timing or just power in general? Or is it a combination of all? Reason is, I can't figure out why injectory duty is up but boost levels are the same, but with less timing and ALOT less power.

Thanks for all the replies guys Plugs are all fairly consistent and according to the mechanics, nothing out of the ordinary. No blockages, I've pulled it all apart a few times now as I thought it was a boost leak so alll is good on that front. Spark plugs seem pretty uniform in terms of colour Boost has crept up 1.5psi, but both tuners/mechanics have dismissed that as the problem, due to the fact the amount of timing they have to back off in order for it to not knock (8-degrees as opposed to 14-degrees). Can't remember off the top of my head but from what both tuners have told me, it's still fine. However, they also mentioned that if it's just one cylinder running elan, it won't come up on the AFR as it's measured from the tailpipe. Exhaust has been dropped and checked. Had a pressure gauge hooked up to it and the exhaust produces less the 1psi of restriction hehe Yeah, fuel lines are all connected up correct. When I did the plenum change, I only had to replace the FPR pressure hose onto the new plenum. I had the injectors cleaned and tested around 5 months ago (brought them second hand). How do I check for fuel flow? Is there a test I can do or my tuner can?

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Hey mate, I just PM'd you the pics of the covers and baffles

Take it all away for $350!! Cost me almost three times that amount to buy but I really need this gone!!

BUMP? Anyone know what it means if power is down but injectory duty is up? Is it a sign of injectors playing up?

Yeah, I'm gonna have a check to see if there's a differentiable difference in temp of the rail. Cooling system is bled properly and even dropped the coolant before putting fresh stuff in so not a cooling issue. Yeah, we don't think it's a fuel pressure issue but more so a fuel flow issue (dodgy injector?) as even if one or two of the injectors are getting lazy, it wouldn't affect the overall AFR as it's measured from the exhaust the two tuners told me. There's no blockages in the cooler but I am contemplating trying a different cooler and see if it makes a difference. I wouldn't think so though as it seems to be cooling pretty well, using a laser temp sensor.

Oh forgot to mention, knock usually occurs in the upper RPM range. At first we thought it was a VCT issue as that's when the knock starts becoming very unstable but we've ruled out the VCT by running it both plugged and unplugged. Also worth mentioning that the fuel rail around cylinder 4,5 and 6 has gone from the factory greeny-metallic colour to a heated titanium sort or bluey-rainbow colour.

For the full story, I'll have to go back to day one of the problems so bear with me here LOL Basically, when I had my PFC first tuned (263rwkw) the car was great and knock never went past 18 when giving it a boot. Then one day, out of the blue, a quick boot saw knock rise up to 126. Thinking it was a "phantom" noise that set it off, I didn't think too much of it. Few days later, another quick boot saw knock at 93. Since I had my car booked in for a tune in a couple of weeks, I took it easy until then. One week prior to the tune (I planned this all in advance by the way), I installed my Plazmaman plenum and Hdi intercooler and went in for my tune the following week. And that's when we found timing issues and the car won't make power. It should also be noted that around the time that the first big knock appeared, I had removed the charcoal cannister but I'm pretty certain I plugged up the lines correctly. Eitherway, all throttle body and manifold lines that used the cannister were plugged up, leaving just the hardlines from the tank and the ones venting.

We did a on-load fuel pressure test, which came up good. The pump is a Bosch 040 and was put in less than 6 months ago

Yeah, we're down on power because of the timing and as to why it's knocking, that's what we're trying to find out as we can't figure out why it's knocking now. That's why I'm wondering if it's possible that one (or more) injector is getting lazy or is clogged from the dirty fuel filter enough for it to be running overly lean in one cylinder. Yep, same fuel (BP 98 Ultimate) and AFRs are the same still. Any ideas?

Just wondering, I have an interesting problem which hopefully someone can shed some light on. I've got some JDM S15 injectors (440cc or 480cc, depending who you ask lol) in my S2 R33 GTS-t which used to make 263rwkw @ 18psi (Injector duty ~93%), and around 14-degrees of timing up top. My car now only makes ~220rwkw @ 18psi (Injector duty ~98%), and around 8-degrees of timing up top. Any more timing and the motor will just knock dangerously, verified by both hand controller and headphones. Had a very reputable mechanic go over the car and found no leaks (other than a small leak from the idle screw), fuel pressure is good (had a working fuel pressure test done, but not a flow test), fuel filter replaced (old one was completely clogged) and compression results came out good. Car idles perfectly and feels smooth. So, the question is: are my injectors stuffed, seeing as the car is making less power but injector duty has increased?

Sorry to bring a thread from the dead, but better than startinga enw thread haha But does a RB25det from a S2 R33 have an EGR and if so, where is it?

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