Super_Dude

I think he means 26psi @ 4100. And max power was 412 somewhere higher up. Unless he is using a lot of nitrous

Awesome. Is there a graph?

I've seen them used in some gtr's in the states and there was fitment issues. That was years ago, they may have improved. Just thought i would share

Link to erd?

I've got my 1.05 twin scroll 8374. To bad my car is currently on the back burner right now without an engine.

I'm very interested to see if teams lean towards the twins or the singles. It will add lots of fuel in the twins vs single debate.

I was considering doing this but I feel the extra oil volume/pressure from an upgraded pump should be enough. This isn't experience though. it is just what I'm doing with my personal RB30. (also shooting for 700-800whp)

Would a cheaper alternative be 4d boost mapping with TPS vs boost and a Speed vs Boost map?

What kind of clearences are you guys running with dry sumps? Im running a built rb30 and a weaver 4 stage pump with the journals and rods at .015 but im going to open them up to around .03. Is this still good for a dry sumped motor?

Did anyone consider that maybe he would love to share what happened but for what ever reason he just isnt allowed to? Why is everyone so quick to assume these turbos are junk? So many things can go wrong and destroy a turbo without the turbo ever being at fault. Lets stop assuming and continue waiting for results. SIerra sierra will be running a 9180 at superlap. That should be a good test as it is famous for killing turbos.

Im extremely picky about waiting till oil temps are up before doing anything with my car. The engine was actually built for someone else and when he couldnt pay I picked it up for dirt cheap. Im not sure what they used on the to measure everything but it was in my freinds garage when we checked with plastigauge ourselves. Ive already ordered new pistons for it, polished the mains/rod journals, acid dipped it, and now we are going back and redoing the clearances. Probably should have just done it myself in the first place.

To be honest the engine came assembled from an engine shop with a good reputation but we just wanted to double check everything. Im going to find another engine shop to assemble and triple check everything with the proper tools. Im worried about machining the crank though as I will need to renitride but im considering having it all wpc treated after machining. Im thinking I might not bother with the rb26 bearings as I dont know if I trust a machine shop and Im afriad they would screw something up. Im going to talk to the machine shop and see what they have to say about it. While ive got your attention what should we run for thrust clearances?

We used plastigauge to check the clearences so Im not sure where it is tight\loose if it is out of round. The mains were tunnel bored before i got it and the crank just had a polish and check before we plastigauged it. The oil pump is a 4 stage weaver. With the extra flow will it makeup for the lack of 26 mains? If a mod finds this maybe it should be moved to the rb30 forum

What depth is the groove machined to? I really want to make sure this car lasts but is this a proven must have? Also, arent rb30 mains wider than rb26 mains?

How do you drill and slot the mains for rb26 bearings? I've been changing a lot of things with this setup and now I'm onto bearings. Can I just modify the rb30 main bearings for better oiling? Im trying to avoid machine work as I just discovered the mains have .0015 clearance and I need to open it up. I was hoping to find some bigger main bearings and avoid machining and having to re-nitride my crank