PIOTREK

yer the coil pack are different 100 %! i changed mine yesterday Look at the top of the motor and see if you got that little black box there. can i ask why are you changing them- miss fire? make sure that you are sure its a coil pack before u spend too much cash on the wrong thing let me know if you need a hand with it, cause i just went through it all and i'm not sure if it might be the leads too, but it has stopped missing. There are quick diy fixes to the coils, refer to the sticky. Probably do that first, to make sure that its the actual coil

Hey guys just gonna resurrect this post I finally got around to looking at the coil pack, I found that one cylinder (coil pack) had this white residue in the clip. I only changed that one coil pack and it seems to running fine My quick question- is this a coil pack related problem or should I be changing the actual lead it self? Thanks again

it could also be your air con switch not turning off completely(faulty switch), check this by on idle switching air con off and on see if there is a change in idle (compressor turning on). I would be inclinded to say it could be a leak from the turbo line, as the heater core leaks into the car! its pretty hard to tell if there is low pressure in the cooling system unless the car is over heating (meaning the thermostat is failing) and u run the risk of blowing a head gasket! I REALLY DOUBT that this is the case as it doesn't explain why it is leaking. Check to see if u have bubbles in the raditor too. When u turn on the car (COLD START) open the radiator cap slight (not completely) and see if there is coolend about to come out (some will spill, alot if not done correctly!!!). Call us if you want me to go through this in more details. Make sure u got some coolend, (really concentrated green stuff) so you see where the leak is coming from and ensure that its coolent!

ben it can be one of a few things: *it could be the heater core leaking, however that normally leaks inside the (passanger side). I really doubt thats it as u had it changed when u bought it. It could also be a loose hose around the heater core *there could be a leak from your water pump and this normally gets progressive worse (and u can't miss it lol) *i doubt that its a split hose from the radiator as the coolant will really just all come out How sure are that its coolant? If u got the air con on, it will always drip and its only seen it when the car stops. It looks and feels like water but can be a bit milky and oily. I hope that you are not confusing this for coolant! it comes out to the air con compressor. I would take it to a import machanic as it could be something like a leaking turbo line. I think that you are over stress the whole not driving it! just ensure that the bottle maintains a good level and reguarly check the radiator because if there is low pressure there ,it will not suck the cooland from the bottle. hope this helps, if ya want i might be able to have a look at it later on in the week. It might be the skyline saying don't put the BOV on lol one thing i would do though is when the car is hot, push the radiator hose to ensure that coolent is flowing with come pressure. Take it easy Peter

so in short i can't put an series 2 coil in a series 1?

far out i'm confused! lol yer well tonight i'm gonna pull it all apart and see wats happening under there Only problem is that it doesn't constantly miss! Last night on the way home it was running fine on full bost and the the red line, but the day before it was missing! is the r33 series 1 coil pack the same as the series 2?

i would say it could be a crank agle sensor possibly, i think that u better off giving it to nissan to see if the ecu spits out any falut codes.

i would say a little high! if this includes a water pump then its not too bad- probably change the water pump too!

Moodles2 can you please elaborate on your post. You saying to buy a cable and run it from the ecu to the COMP and i need the program? Where can i download/ buy the cable? I'm not sure if it will spit out any fault codes cause the check engine light doesn't come on, it is only really mild miss fire but still need to fix it!

so i should be able to see the spark?? that actually makes sense thanks mate!

As the topic indicated i have misfire at about 5.5k rpm and have got a second coil pack that i want to fit. However i only want to change the faulty coil. How do i diagnose which is the faulty one? I would rather not run the car 5 cylinders red line the crap out of it Any ideas? Thanks in advance

going dirt cheap, i paid 150 for mine a while back! These are good for about 10-12psi EASY and are a straight bolt on. Only have to take off the front bar. *free bump*

mate willing to split the pads- only want the fronts. Will the fit the m-spec 4 pot brakes?

might as add to the above post- TRUST BEARING also, most people seem to forget that

yer it only happened once, but i will definately have a look at them in the next couple of weeks- thanks

odds of the belts breaking are very low, but once u start u doing these crappy repairs your skyline will sooner or later become rat sh*t conditions. Put a side about 2hrs and 100bucks for all 3 belts and change them

just realised that you got 91km on the clock, if your an convinced that they are "real" i would consider trying the motul 5w-40 stuff.

personally i do motul turbo light 10w-40 every 4-5k. and i drive it pretty close to granny spec. Turbo light is a full synth oil for aus standards (78% or more), however they don't publish it on the bottle as its a euro brand and they have very strict laws. i found that according to the rating of the bottle the turbo light had higher synth % that some full synth pentrite oils. I agree that its how often you change it, though! not how good the oil is. Although i reckon that it takes 500km for oil to "burn in" so 3k changes would be almost over kill. depends on your driving style though! Anyways i think check the bottle and standards and work out how "semi syth" is magnatec % wise and then compare it turbo light(i would be interest in the results). I'm sticking to turbolight personally(wait when the 20% store wide sales are on and pick up 3-4 bottle and u pay like 45 bucks for 5L ).

thanks guys

mate these are 3 ways i think, but either way- best alarm on the market! you can adjust the sensitivity once the alarm is installed (i got mine set to go off when u go with 30cm of the car NO JOKE!) and the pager works really well too! reasonable distance with interference

anyone?

well last night i decided to drive my car again and to see wats going on, and amazing after i reset the ECU it was running fine. I was really booting around for like 10min constantly on the redline and it was good. Very weriod ?! Can someone explain what does a motor that is pining feel like?

mate make sure that u r sure that its the timing belt! it could be a number of things, my mate had the a simular problem execpt it would be noisy all the time. Turned out to be the trust bearing lol (not sayin u as bright as him though). Another mate had a racing timing belt and it was just always noisy! But considering that it only happens for the first 20 sec of driving i would say its not the timing belt (at most it could be a tention issue). Next time drive the car and its really hot turn it off and turn it straight one, does it still make the noise? i know my friend had an air con compressor issue in his car, it make like 20 sec worth of really had noise and then goes away (its really loud!!!)

mate if its just the front belts (3) don't stress out about it! i quick way (not good for the belts though) is just spray them with WD40. I know to tighten one of the belts you have to get over the car and the alternator is one is pretty tricky to get an spanner on. But aside an hour just to be sure to do all three. good luck

that is very true i haven't given much information! Its an R33 turbo (gts-t),series 1. i service it on time always! About 20,000 km ago iput the NGK niridum (i think that is how u spell it lol). They should be good for 80km but i planned on changing them at 40km so i think there is still a bit of life in them! I never spaced them as the guys that i bought them from done it for me. But i never had any issues before, so not sure if it could be the plugs (they have been through a couple of track days and they were perfect). I might have to have a look the coil pack? would a series 2 coil pack fit or are they different? Also can anyone shine some light as to wat are the signs of pining?