bigmikespec

It is so nice when people just make perfect sense! And Tonba one thing, I can tell you right now that if ppl weren't so scared of axial loads on the compressor wheel causing damage (however manufactured they are to sell product i.e. BOV's) then no one would have them. Light weight wheels are the biggest part of the puzzle because it is minimising the rotating mass which would have the most direct effect on 'transient response' (just to quite the most recent buzz word going around here).

Anyone found out if we can get these yet?

Yes they do, check on the back of the turbine housing it should have a 15cm, 18cm, 21cm... I think, maybe a 24cm as well?

What rear housing is it?

Are you using compressor maps to compare flows and pressure ratios? ....

Sorry, I know that come off a bit 'derrr' but in the context of a very expensive fuel setup running alcohol adequate filtration for high flow rates is an absolute must and a bit more expense for a filter is totally worth it. I feel like punching our sourcing team in the face every time they try and suggest we use a cheaper hydraulic filter on our machines! Yes of course I will thanks for the offer. I will send you a PM.

You should be running a filter anyway. I know of at least one handsome fella on here running Moran injectors. Soon to be two as I am buying a set for myself.

No inline fuel pump (fuel flows through the motor) are specifically designed to pump alcohol fuels. I would recommend Weldon fuel pumps as they are designed to pump alcohol fuels. For injectors I would use Moran Motorsport for the same reason. You are putting together a high spec engine, don't skimp on the important parts!

Not really... I got quoted the same to get a bearing the size of a 50c piece shipped from the USA to Aus. That aside, Powertune seems ok price wise, $1900 Kiwi definitely a rip off.

Wrong

Do OS Giken actually publish any torque limit on their gearboxes? I know they don't on their clutches which is a bit of a joke. Torque will kill the box.

Albins do one now and even Modena have a sequential that would accept the transfer case. Plus the new Quaife. Plenty of options... None a bargain.

To keep my own thread going, here are the results from BoostdR: Post #106: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/104332-rb30-hybrid-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-6#entry5375345 Post #74: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/104332-rb30-hybrid-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-4#entry4463133

Hi Paul, did you get my PM?

Thanks Richard, I will have a look for BoostdR's result somewhere on the forum today too.

General question for those doing track days in R32/R33 GTR's... what gearboxes are you running and power are you racing with? I am looking at some options at the moment; the OS Gearset seems to be the most cost effective with the 1-5 kit, billet shaft and billet plate totalling just over $3.3k... but I am not sure how many people are racing with them? Anything after that like a PPG well you can multiply by x3 just to get a gearset without a billet shaft. I am starting to think just be gentle with the stock one and put the pennies away.

You can lead a horse to water... etc.

There are a few in Adelaide; most would not go to the trouble of an engine dyno but IMO it is the best way to tune and run in an engine prior to fitting it to the car. Also the only way to get a true reading of torque (and engine power).

I actually think the Mines cams would work well as an 'off the shelf'... I think they are around 250° duration and over 10mm lift; might be stock base circle too which would save you some more hassle, can anyone confirm? You need to choose a cam then select a suitable spring, talk to someone from Ferrea they are a top quality product in terms of head components.

600hp+.... they can post it in here! I know BoostdR had some results, I can't find it however. It was an RB30 with twin -10s that made good strong power.

The problem with aftermarket gear sets is the size of the gearbox casing is the limiting factor for gear strength. If you can't make the gears physically bigger and space them further apart there are limitations on stength. Gear design, material and heat treatment can be optimised but only to a point. The most cost effective option is the new Quaife sequential for the GTR, totally new design and much improved in comparison to their original GTR sequential which is a modified Dodge Viper Quaife sequential. I think they are around the $9k English pound... group buy?

Hi fellas, I started this topic to see what kind of results some guys are getting on an engine dyno around the 600hp+ mark. In particular, actual engine torque values and rpm it is achieved (instead of measured by rolling road dyno). So, anyone tuning on an engine dyno and have some torque figures to share; nothing specific, RB26, RB26, RB30... sorry if this topic is conflicting with the dyno result thread but it it more specific to engine dyno. Thanks, Mike

I didn't miss it... in case anyone else did, they have a cam grinder, they sell cams, make money from them. The more cams they sell the more money they make. Danny, listen to the advice instead of trying to find information to justify your decision. Tell Kelford you made a mistake, get them to unshroud the valves and knock of the sharp edges in the combustion chambers and thats it. Get some stock duration cams made by them with as much lift as you can with the springs you have.

I didn't get opinions from a bunch or forum members (the majority have no idea), I went out did some research, bought some books and talked to the right people. You need to do the same and come to your own decision.

No, by what reasoning? You are enlarging the ports slowing the velocity of exhaust gases. You would not see any benefit for the power you want to make. Or you can give me the money and do what I said if it makes you feel better jks