bigmikespec

Great result, that is about 325kW, pretty good at 18psi would be interesting to see if you could get much more out of them, maybe the 422kW HKS claim on their website... Also they state using 264deg. cams, anyone used them with GT-SS's?. Mike

Will the centre fit into the housing? All aftermarket 1.5/2 way centres are not compatible with the A-LSD diff housing. Hence I might have to (but I would rather not) change the complete diff with one from a R32 or R33 non-vspec.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&st=200 Some bloke gives away a secret if you read page 11. It has obviously been done but how and also how to do it reliably.

There must be some V-Spec owners who have or are in the same position?

Really, do you have any more info on your set up?

Thanks for the info Paul and Guilt-Toy.

Yes, however in the manual it recommends the Innovative Motorsport WB. No drama, I would like to know why the Tech Edge was chosen by Paul. Good information to know especially to those (like myself) who don't have WB yet. Anyway, sorry Bakes to digress. Mike

maybe Mr. Dirt can elaborate...

I am excited to see the results of this, great stuff. Quick question, with regard to the wideband, why did you not go with the Innovate Motorsports WB which is reccommended to be used with the Vipec ECU's? Geniune question, I am not just being a d**k. Mike PS: in comparing dyno runs details of AFR and ignition advance would be good to get more of a direct comparison.

Mr Dirt, can you confirm whether that was the Racepace super special RB29...?

Hey guys, Firstly does anyone have an A-LSD that works? I have an R33 GTR V-spec with an A-LSD and I hate it, it doesn't work and it seems like trying to make it work (Paul's A-LSD Thread) is more trouble than it is worth. Hence, I want to change to a 2-way mech., however it seems that everyone Jap. brand available is not compatible with the A-LSD. I am thinking will I have to get a standard GTR complete differential then replace the centre to get what I want? I had a search and found nothing of much value, if anyone could offer some help/advice that would be appreciated! Mike

Thanks dazmo PS: feel free to update your thread in the motorsport section, love the R33!

Another solution would be to buy an old Game Boy from a garage sale for $10 and throw it at their thick heads.. haha.

Yeah I know Ray Hall is working with companies like Aim, Racepak to get their dashes working with the Vipec. I know what you are saying and it is a great option, but another advantage I see with running an aftermarket dash is that you can eliminate the additional unneccesary sensors and wiring associated with the standard dash.

Considering your car is for mainly track/circuit work (I am assuming from your thread in the motorsport section) why did you not go for an aftermarket dash such as that offered by Motec, Aim, Stack... etc? Mike

I have a set of PSS9's for my R33 GTR waiting to go on and what I was told by a fella from Bilstein Australia was that the max on the front was 650lb/in and the rear 450lb/in. I would express that in metric but can't be assed converting. Mike

On the topic of compatible dashes with the Vipec I have contacted Stack in the UK (I am sure many people are familiar with the Sard Stack dashes which are manufactured by Stack UK which supply Sard). Anyway they have a dash that may be compatible with the Vipec ECU via CAN port, at the moment the AIM MXL, Motec ADL2, Racepak IQ3 and Race Technology DASH2 (soon) are compatible with the Vipec. Would be cool to have a Stack dash in there too, they look awesome with their analogue tacho and LCD display! I have contacted Ray Hall too, if there is any serious interest I am sure the Stack MFD ST8916 could be added to the list. http://www.stackltd.com/st8916.html Mike

What would make it more gooder would be to have a Borg Warner equivalent to compare...

YOULE!!!!!!!!

Great work there, looks awesome. Very interested to see how testing goes on this, has there been any as yet? Mike

Dude, look at the times from drags and circuit. You can do the same with both! More average power, over a certain rpm means dick all if you spend your time between 4-8.5k. Do you want me to get Chuck Norris so he can explain it speaking braille to you?

Your opinion, that is what these forums are for. More power and torque earlier, fair enough. But the same times on a drag strip and/or circuit can be achieved either way, so, again as I said, it is a personal choice.

I didn't question ability of either engine. The idea of owning one does not interest me so why would I want to be in a car powered by one? If you can do the same thing, as in make good power and run good times, with either capacity (i.e. either block) then what is the big deal? It is a personal choice which way to do it. There is just a bit more pride and class doing it with the original capacity. Mike

Mate, I totally agree! For those who want it, fine. It is definately a personal choice how you want to modify your own car. For me personally, I do not want a mongrol engine in my pure-bred Jap sports car. An RB30 is just like a pig, it is a dirty animal, put it in a clean environment and it is much better, but it is still a dirty smelly pig! How is that for a pot stir? 2.6L all the way.

Thats right, but apparantly it has been corrected. I got my V88 and adaptor board very soon after the product release hence a few bugs still in there, Paul the same (hope you're feeling better too, scary!) Thinking of controlling the 4WD torque split with the V88, I have not run it by my tuner but it could not be that difficult, just a PWM signal straight from the V88 to the ATTESA pump. Mike