Ki_spirit

Hey dude, Talked to you today at MW, and I think as you've figured, the r33 type will fit R34 (I think). Hopefully we will cruise soon. Take it easy.

Try Nulon Injector cleaner. Are you running 98 Premium and what pressure are you running in your tires? Mileage is also dependent on driving environment. eg. City Vs Highway. Might as well clean your air filter and plugs while you are at it mate. Cheers. Sam.

Cheers mate. Might get one this weekend let you know how I go. Sam.

Hi mate, No fuel cut issues with the car at the moment. I think the ecu has been remapped and wiring loom has been modified - posted a thread a while back 'What the hell is this?!'. As per running the stock pump, which I think is going to go soon, I am anticipating a decrease in air: fuel ratio which I think can be resolved using an SAFC to moderately tune the engine due to the increase in pressure with the new pump, due to the fact the car was remapped with a dodgy pump. How much do the bosch's go for? - I am looking for a direct in-tank replacement. Thanks. Sam.

Appreciate all the feedback guys. Thanks.

I get the weird sounds when I am starting my car, and the pump is priming; but - I also getting a raising electronic sound from the pump when slightly lifting the rpm above idle. Looks like it's time for a new pump. Where can I find these bosch pumps for a decent price you mention trel? And what do you mean about 'modifications' with the Walbro - mods to the pump itself or engine wise?. I here the Walbro's are made to operate at 15v? - Does anyone know if the flow will be fine at 12v or does the voltage need to be raised? Noob question = How can my car get tuned with stock ECU and uprated fuel pump? From what I'm thinking it can't be done without an aftermarket ECU (eg.Power FC) - Will an SAFC suffice? Thanks everyone. Sam.

yeh, tried that mate. All the 'experts' keep telling me I need ADR approved rails and mounts. When looking at the rails and mounts themselves, I have contacted various online sellers with them confirming that they may not even come ADR approved. I thought the guy that approving the adapter bracket (see above) for the seat, should be able to do the mount/rails at the same time ? I'll keep looking into it though.

Think I might go with something like a Tomei Fuel Pump - 255L/H for skyline. Do I need a tune after the new pump is installed if using the same regulator? Thanks.

Come on guys - someone must know something surely! Anyone out there!

Hi, Ever since I have had my car (4 months), I have noticed it behaves differently as the level of the tank changes. Around half way, it seems to run rich (sluggish) and goes through the fuel FAST. When almost full and getting low, the car seems to run leaner and respond well to boost and spools up quickly, responsive and alive? It's an r33 skyline S1 by the way. What could it be?

Hygroscopic. Gotta love physics and chem from highschool. lol.

I regards to the oil pressure I happen to know someone with a black S2 R33. His oil pressure is quite low and at idle can stall. The car has something like 90XXX km's or so on it and seems to be in farely good nic. How long since your last oil change? Oil gradually becomes thinner as time goes on as you most probably know, which can result in a gradual decrease in pressure. Get some new oil in there I plan on gapping my plugs to .8mm sometime today, not running extremely high boost, but my idle is a little rough. The oil change will probably not fix your problems, but it can play a factor in an old engine I think, and will help to rule the whole pressure thing out if your leaning that way. If you have recently changed the oil or it is within 5000km's, then don't bother. I would definately put some money on the fuel filter though. I used to get missing and it seems to emphasise the effect with an old filter (going to change again soon, being a bit tight tho because I just bought a new socket set). From what you have said, the fuel pump. etc. is new, so maybe there is restriction possibly caused by the filter - although not neccessarily, because the problem is cold start related, which can lead to questions relating to the age of the engine and the wear. etc. Do some good researching on the rb's and find out what might be problematic in older engines which is all I can say. Could be time for new coilpacks. Investigate the issue further, not really too sure as to what it might be, maybe try PM'ing some of the more experienced members or search for symptoms on the site. Look at the more specific details which may help you cut the variables down on what could be causing the problem, specific sounds.etc. Hope you can find the problem and fix it mate. If you have any clues on bucket seats - check my thread ha ha. Sam.

How many km's does your R32 have on it? I know this is a long shot, but you could be losing compression as the worst scenario case. 500 seems a bit steep mate, you can start looking at buying new injectors at that price. Maybe change the plugs and have a look at the coilpacks. What's your oil pressure like? and level? Just a bit of looking around, hard to know what it could be, but by the sounds of it you must think it is electronic taking it to an auto electrician. Try a local mechanic or a reputable mechanic you can trust (if you have one) I haven't got one yet... Do you work on your car much? Maybe start tinkering and gain some general knowledge in how your car goes (sry to sound blunt) can help in the diagnostic stages. Hope that helps Sam.

Sounds like you are new to skylines as well Maybe go for the GTT, start off small, it obvious from what I have heard GTR's can get expensive The GTT only has one turbo and one would think less on the pocket-emptying side than a GTR can be, although I have never owned one myself, it is understandable The rb25's seem to go well, see how you go. Goodluck.

Anyone? 14 views, come on - surely someone knows something... Is it even necessary to have ADR approved rails? Please guys

As the topic shows, I am looking for ADR approved seat rails/mounts that will bolt in and R33 to mount a bucket seat. There are various items on ebay and I have looked through the advertisements on SAU including brands such as IAP seat mounts and Shock systems with a little uncertainty... I want to mount a bucket seat with bottom mounting points. Just where can I look for an ADR approved rail/ mount or the equivalent? I live in QLD and have contacted Queensland Transport; given a list of contacts to approve my mounting efforts and in the event of sucess, be rewarded with an LK1 Mod plate. Guidelines are: Plates used to match up holes (the difference between the seats mounting points and mounting points on the brackets bolted to the floor - used to bolt them together) made from 4mm flat bar or thicker and ADR approved seat brackets/rail. I don't really feel like forking out the 200 or so dollars just to find out I can be defected by police or something that won't pass the engineering overlook. Can someone please point me in the right direction? HELP! Sam.

^ Ok mate, Fair enough Thanks for the reply in the other thread as well. Have you made anything else interesting Sam.

^ Cheers mate. Nothing in particular happening in the events section, so if anyone wants to meet up feel free to drop me a PM, I would be more than happy to go for a cruise with some fellow enthusiasts Sam.

Where people meet up these days? - I usually end up going for the lonely cruise every now and then and would like to know when and where everyone else meets up? (I'm on the Sunny Coast - Maroochydore/ Kawana Area) Saw this chick and a white evo, chased her around for a bit. Got to say both her and her car looked good Puffs smoke tho Sam.

Good work with the welding, I have one question though. Not going to much into the dynamics of flow and crap - but is there a reason why in the first photo, 3rd bend from the left why you didn't just cut straight across with a straight piece of pipe instead of putting another bend? Just curious - maybe spacial limits under the car? or preference? Got any tips for a stick welder? (Might get a mig later on) Thanks.

Hi guys, I have found the only thing within my budget atm is a stick welder, lol. I have experimented welding exhaust pipe, specifically 76mm OD 1.6mm thick on low amperage with 2.5mm sticks. Does anyone have some tips I should consider when trying to weld the flanges (8mm) to the ends of the 1.6mm thick pipe? What methods do people use when it comes to forming elbows and bends in pipe, without the use of pipe bender (Cutting angles)? How about determining the radius or mapping of a curve of exhaust pipe under axles and through the chassis exhaust tunnels .etc? - Maybe I should make a seperate thread I find drawing a scale diagram with measurements, deriving the angles and measurements fromt the drawing and then cutting the pipe to the chosen size/ angle etc. Would be very greatful for some replies. Thanks.

Flat battery mate. If your car doesn't even crank, jump start her and let her run a few minutes. (hopefully you have another car or a friend with one) Leave both cars running for 5 minutes or so to replenish the batteries after the jump. Just jumped my 4x4, had been sitting there for a couple of months without being driven. - Would advise taking your car for a burn aftwards as well. I guess you could always charge the battery as well as previously stated, but could be the plugs as well. Goodluck

I get 400km to a tank (50L upon refill) and I don't even have a gtr, a gts-t r33. Anything that isn't premium sucks.

'bumble_bee' - Thankyou very much for the reply. I will check my bov - apparently it has been modified in some way and I will make sure I check the plugs as well - they are at 1.1mm. I will be getting a tune done too I think If anyone else can help, I would be greatly appreciative. Thanks.

Hi Guys. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction of solving such a seemingly insignificant problem. Car: ECR33 GTS-T 186XXX km's, running 10PSI with bleed valve, Simota Pod filter, Gearbox Oil and Engine Oil + Filter changed less than 500kms ago. When stepping on the pedal from idle lightly, the engine stutters roughly and then raises smoothly. The injectors tick/ tap like crazy and seem to have gotten louder in the last 1000kms and wasn't rectified when changing the oil? - if that matters at all. When cold and gradually accelerating from 1000rpm to 3000rpm the car feels like it jutters forwards sometimes, like inconsistant power and is spasmodic in nature and minimal. I don't have any experience with altering timing etc. but from what I have read I think this may have something to do with it. Also, the injectors are original and I have run Nulon fuel system/ injector cleaner through with a slight difference. Plugs have been cleaned and are not fouled up. Coil packs have been cleaned up and sealed using epoxy resin to cover cracks etc. with no misfire on boost I have cleaned the AAC valve and this has done nothing at all. According to the previous owner, the O2 sensor in the dump pipe has been replaced - it doens't look like the original, although I am sure that the sensor in the cat has not been replaced. Please help anyone! -