Ki_spirit

^ Dude, In my manual for RB25DET GTS-T it says 2.8L ?! Emptied my gearbox the other day and roughly a little less than 3L came out.

Well, changed the oil. Pressure appears to be a bit more stable. Changed the filter as well - along with the gearbox oil. Runs more smoothly now. Thanks for all of your help everyone

I was also wondering what standard pressures were as well.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all of the replies. I am going to change the oil today. Ill tell you how I go.

cheers.

Oh, another thing guys. What should the pressure reading be at idle?

Hi guys, Thanks for all of your replies. The gauge seems to operate okay, and I have found when starting cold the the pressure is halfway between 4 and 8 on startup - I will look into the sender. My sump although is still half full and I can see no indications of leaks... The engine is getting slightly louder though, like the injectors and it is only recently that this has started to occur. I have no idea what oil is in it, because the previous owner put it in. I am guessing from what he said it would be geting near 3000kms- guessing mineral, no idea on grade ; but I am going to change the oil ASAP (will have to look up what is in the book for the spec I guess). Any recommendations? 185 XXX km's on car. Am going to flush the radiator and refill as well. Thanks everyone (kuma j, msnismo, GeeTR, blind_elk, rb2240sx, nuclear_skyline, Silver_R34_GT-T) for all of your help

Please help! After driving my car tonight, I have come home to find my oil gauge reading almost zero at idle! I was driving, stepping on the pedal quite generously and at mid range rpm, the oil pressure is just below the last mark on the gauge! There appears to be no leaks, although the wastegate of my turbo seems to stutter slightly under full boost repetitively, while being heavy on the pedal. When cold the gauge can read close to the 4kg/cm2 line but once when warmed up goes down very low! Please help!! Anyone! I will be ever so greatful for any help!

Hi, A black wire connected to the door panel?... Well, I think it may have been a grounding wire for a previous application. Do you have all wires connected to your speaker in the door? (all 2 ) If it is bolted to the door, most likely is a grounding wire. I have no idea what it may be for, but only what my have been. - Unless there is something still inside the door that may need it. You will see similar examples in the engine bay, with grounding wires bolted to chassis panels. etc. - Come to think of it, I think I have similar circumstances with one just dangeling around under the bonnet. Good luck.

With the idle thing - I don't think your tune should change. Changing the idle only involves increasing the standing rpm of the engine, so you should be fine (Check the thread about Cleaning the AAC valve for RB25's under the DIY/FAQ section). Although, this may be overriden by the ECU? On the stock ECU there is a small screw on the bottom to fine tune the idle. Be very delicate, it is easy to turn and has a max limit of 250rpm at max, change it manually -> just see the thread, don't take my word for it. Good luck.

Has your power FC been mapped for the BOV venting to atmosphere? Apparently Atmo BOV's can cause rough idles and stalls at idle unless it has been mapped accordingly. Hope that helps you in the right direction. Please correct me if I am wrong - I have read it somewhere.

ok, this is going to sound stupid - but possibly check the wiring loom at cylinder 2 where it connects to the coilpack. Probably not the case, but atleast you can then rule it out. Have you done the epoxy thing to your coilpacks? - I'm not sure if the heat-cracking phenomenon occurs on rb26's but I will ask anyway, (as they do in rb25's, so I thought why not ) All the best finding the prob.

I have a R33 GTS-T and get the smell of vapours when the tank is between a quarter and 3/4 full. The fuel lines connecting to the tank seem fine, no splits or cracks - but one thing I noticed is that when I start the car, I can see fumes and vapour hissing out from below the fuel cap (A pin size hole) - a relief valve maybe?

Your setup looks similar to mine. Look very closely at the bleeder you are running. This may be the detriment to your spiking as I have a similar setup running ok at the moment. Good luck.

Is there a seperate valve responsible for the rpm increase on cold start? Maybe cleaning the AAC valve will help regardless, I am yet to do mine.

Thought about possibly modding the one you have? Cutting it for better ground clearance and fitting a lip. All the best in finding one mate.

Hi guys. Have owned a 93' ECR33 GTS-T for a month and a bit now. Have been tinkering to find a couple of questionable things with the car. I took the kick panel off to find my wiring loom all messed up, with wires swapped around and something that looks like a form of piggy-back computer taped to my wiring?! Can anybody please tell me what this is? I talked to the previous owner a number of times, with him saying that the ECU has been remapped because he was having issues with the car misfiring @ 5000rpm (yes, I know how to fix this issue). He replaced the AFM, only for me to find it tampered with, so I replaced it with another unit.I then discovered that the wiring had been swapped around with the signal wire connected to the ground wire from the unit!... Communication is no longer possible with the previous owner, as he has become very reluctant to talk to me in relation to anything relating to the car. I thought I would come on here first and ask to see if anyone could point me in the right direction instead of being screwed around locally by mechanics when they don't know what they are talking about and asking for money for no-fix. The only reason I can think of why these things would have been done, is MAF metering to the ECU being changed due to the running of some piggy back system. The wiring loom has been extensively screwed around with and I am too scared to untape it all and take it apart for fear of what I may find and issues in running as this car is my daily. I definately know that wiring from the AFM has been altered at the loom and spliced with other wires as well as being altered at wiring near the AFM itself. I am getting hurrendous fuel economy between 3/4 and 1/4 full, sometimes only getting 150+ k's to this region of the tank, but economy seems to be half reasonable when the tank is full and getting close to empty, otherwise the guage is just playing with me. When I start the car over 1/4 of a tank full, I get a strong smell of fuel vapour hissing leaking from the relief valve near the filler of the fuel tank. The previous owner insists that the fuel lines have been replaced from front to back and I cannot find any leaks myself... I know that some of the economy issues may be influenced by the potential 'mapping' if any of the computer and thing strapped to my loom. I am mechanically minded and electronically literate, so if I know what I can do to fix it, I will work on it meticulously to get it right. Other things to consider in my case: - Stock turbo running 10 psi - Boost bleed valve - 'mapped?' ECU or thing strapped to my loom - Modified factory relief/BOV - sounds like it is venting to atmosphere, well, loudly inside the turbo inlet which can't be condsidered the inlet manifold and isn't quiet like stock. Owner mentioned filling in a small hole with a welder to hear the sound from the wastegate, which I am guessing is the plumb back outlet from the wastegate to the inlet manifold. - 3 1/2 Cat-back exhaust if that is a factor. - Spark plugs recently cleaned and coil packs epoxied - although I will have to do further work on them as I still get the misfire. Recently I have recorded fuel consumption, using a full tank, with 335 km's to a tank and thats not even heavy on the pedal Highway driving seems to yield the same results and is no more economical than city driving, well, nothing noticable. Please, if anyone can shed some light on this subject, I would be ever so greatful. I live on the Sunshine Coast and would be willing to meet up with someone locally if they can help me in any way. Thanks for reading. Sam.

Hi Mate, I can understand your concern. There is quite a big thread on this on here somewhere, possibly try other sites such as boostcruising.com and nissansilvia for any other possibilities if you can't find it on here... If the engine numbers doens't match what is on the plate, start to ask questions. It is not illegal to swap or change an engine as you may already know, but what I think you are more interested in is if the GTR has been built with stolen parts. etc? Try contacting VICroads for the registered details including engine numbers and everything on the vehicle register. If not, you can get a check (In QLD there is something called R.E.V.S) where you can supply all the details of the car, eg. chassis number, engine number, VIN. etc and they can check the history of the car, crashes, whether is has been written-off and repaired, stolen. etc. so hopefully that will be able to turn something up for you and give you better piece of mind. Hopefully something similar is available in victoria, up here it only costs 30 bucks or something, so if you are really interested in the car, but have a couple of doubts as whether everything is legal or not, this inspection/check may help to clear some things up. Maybe call the rego office and confirm the details of the car, who it is registered under. etc. If details don't match up to what the registration office has, you should definately steer clear of this one, there is no compensation for stolen vehicles unless you can sue the owner for selling you stolen parts. etc. Other than that good luck.

Thanks for the pointer. As with the whole sling thing - there are no deformities near the roof line or tops of windows for that matter. Thanks for the input.

Hi guys, I am currently looking at a 93' Nissan Skyline and have come to wonder about the bent chassis rails underneath. From the reading I have done, most imports that aren't personal from Japan have some sort of damage to the chassis rails due to the abuse from forklifts on the docks. etc. Relating back to the R33, are bent chassis rails a major concern for rigidity. etc? They don't look like the main frame of the car, but are the rails running between jacking points under the car. If they are the main rails, will they cause me problems in the future? is it possible to be fixed and how much would I be looking at? - Sorry guys, I am a little confused and don't know what to think of it . If it helps, I have been to see many skylines, with the majority having some chassis damage. I have searched to find barely anything on the topic and would appreciate anyone straightening out my misconceptions and pointing me in the right direction! Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks. Sam.