Sampo

Ive uploaded photos here https://www.facebook.com/groups/buyallthethings/ Please let me know if you have any difficulties veiwing the pictures. Regards, Matt

Quick question. How do they get the fuel into the cylinder? from what ive seen the injector rail atleast on the RD is on the exhaust side of the head.

hahaha fair enough then, the thought atleast gave me a smile.

G’day I’ve recently discovered after a chat on the phone to the EPA, that Diesel engines are pretty much exempt from the pollution laws, which have been driving me up the wall with EPA notices now becoming a regular appearance in the mail. So while its still a late night crack fuelled idea and its relatively fresh in my head im wondering what it would take to extract some kind of respectable power from a diesel engine. Something around the 200-230rwkw mark with the torque to suit would be a nice start. From what i gather this kind of high performance diesel tuning is more common in Europe with people using the CDI Mercedes diesel engines to produce power figures in excess of 500hp. An example of which is this is: That smoke, with that noise coming from a skyline would surely get the emotions flowing.The engine im particularly interested in is the Nissan RD28 given its similarity to the RB30 block it would be the ideal transplant engine if such a conversion were to take place. However its lack of performance in standard from means it would need some major work to get it moving. Given i’ve never really been interested in these motors,. Im a little unclear on how to even tackle such a project, i take it that its going to need a modified diesel pump, but what about injectors? and as for the compression ratio, do you need to lower it when trying to run 2-3bar of boost?

Evening gents, After some late night shanigans and an attempted launch in 3rd im now left with a clutch that slips badly and seems to be almost fused together. I can put the clutch to the floor and it will still drive up hill in 1st. Besides the imminate replacement of the clutch im wondering if anyone knew any tips / tricks to get the clutch disengaging again allowing me to get to work and back in the morning. I have tried disengaging the clutch and reving the engine, it will slip but its not properly disengaging. The issue started immediantly after the failed launch. Cheers, Matt

Thanks for the responses, Its fitted with a 5 psi actuator from the rb25, but would climb to around 16psi at 7000rpm (became doughy in patches, then would clear up and continue to rise. Loading a different map onto the ecu has brought this figure back to the 9psi mark which seems more manageable and improved torque curve. Given the size of the waste gate is apparently an issue when running so little boost, is it likely to become more of an issue when i actually have this setup tuned for around the 300+kw mark? Does anyone on here have much experience tuning these engines, not really interested in playing with the fuel map myself but would like a better understanding of what is actually going on. I can include a log from the last power run, but whats happened is the afr's would fluctuate between the high 10 - low 11 mark through the entire rev range, however at 5740rpm the afr shot to 20.8:1 the car surged then it dropped back to a safe ratio just as quickly as it happened.

it has, kinda. The injectors and plenum have been changed, but yes this setup has run before.

Hi, Im wondering if i can get some advice, The car was running fine with a 3" exhaust straight off the turbo leading into a 2 1/4" rear muffler (used to pass epa). I have now changed the rear muffler back to the 3" muffler i have run in the past but my boost levels have sky rocketed. The car has a peice of brand new rubber hose running between the compressor housing of the turbo straight into a 5 psi actuator on a GT35/40R internally gated turbo. The dump pipe is a split type setup and the wastegate flap does not foul (easy 90 degree movement). The engine specs are:. RB30 bottom end, RB25 head 8.0:1 comp ratio. Standard rb25 exhaust manifold internally gated GT35/40r from a BA XR6T 5 psi actuator 3" exhaust from the turbo back. Any ideas?

Cheers, lll make sure I check the connections when it stops raining. The ecu repOrts code 21 primary ignition signal fault. Anyone know what this means? I'm on a phone ATM which makes searching difficault

Cheers, lll make sure I check the connections when it stops raining. The ecu rep

I should clarify that this is a RB30DET, using a modified RB25 head, vct

HI, So we've just finished building up a RB30, now at the monent its been reverted to the standard RB25DE fueling system (injectors ecu and afm) off a working engine. It has brand new spark plugs, correct cam timing, correct cas timing, fuel is getting to all cylinders and 110+ PSI of pressure (old school compression tester with rubber bung). we have tested the coil packs and yet it will only run on cylinders 1 & 3. I have changed the CAS, and checked the wiring for the coil packs. everything apprears to be fine. I have spoken to numous people including mechanics regarding the problem, we are out of ideas. Has anyone had this issue or similar in the past, and what did it turn out to be / what should be my next move. Thanks in advance, Matt

Its booked in for a tune, however in the meantime while its being painted it would be nice if the boys were able to run it between sheds. Should i not be concerned as to why its running like a dog? I like to nut these issues out, and im simply throwing money away, and potentially the tuner if i take it in running like this.

cam timing is setup as it should be now, ill double check everything next time im back at the workshop. copy of the tune is here if anyone wants to take a squiz http://www.filedropp...uestionabletune

Engine specs:. RB30 bottom end, standard RB25 VCT head Stock cams Standard low mount turbo manifold, BA XR6 turbo (gt35/40 1.06rear housing) 8.3:1 compression ratio Manual trans Z32 nistune ecu Gready plenum, 875cc siemins injectors z32 afm FMIC PULP fuel

Im having massive issues with a new motor, at the moment the engine is incredibly hard to start, back fires through the intake and is building boost from free reving below 3000rpm. RB30det with a GT35/40 1.06 rear housing. When the engine was being put back together i poored some oil on top of the cylinders to lubricate the cylinders before bolting the head on. i did the cam timing while the engine was still in the car and while i checked it multiple times i ended up with the crank two teeth out with the cams spot on. The engine was difficault to turn over, and i foolishly used the starter motor to get it to crank over in the end, i didnt make any funny noises, concerned i wouldnt know if any real damage was done till it was ready to start. Other issues include the engines tune, i am not a tuner and ive attempted to resize the RB25 base map on the z32 nistune ecu to suit the z32 afm and 875cc injectors. If anyone has a base map i could try that would be fantastic. Please help, thank you

bump, any help would be appreciated! is it common for the ecu to drop all six at once? or is it wiring?

Hey guys, Ive got a R33 s1 skyline that we've put a 25/30 into and its gotten to the point where we're ready to turn the key. Only issue is that the ecu doesnt seem to be sending the signal to fire the coil packs. I've put in one of the wasted spark setups found in the technical section of the forum using 3 ignitors from a r31. When we tap +12v on to the terminal where the ecu plugs on to the ignitor the coil packs will fire. but if we plug the ecu back in and turn the car over it refuses to fire. Is there a wire somewhere that i might have missed? any ideas? Thanks, Matt

How exactly do i go about doing that? i thought it was as simple as bolting the torque converter to the flywheel then the auto to the engine lol.

Hey guys, I noticed that my rb30det has become exceptionaly difficult to turn over since fitting the rb25 auto. (used rb25 auto flywheel and torque converter). Is this normal? The engine does turn over still but you need some leverage and quite a bit of force to do it. Any insight would be great, its my first auto.

Chasing a R33 RB25 S2 auto ecu cheers, matt

Then clearly its not the the motor / car for you hey...

Chasing a standard intake manifold to suit a R33 RB25DET (vct head). Needs to come complete with thoatle body and tps. However does not require fuel rail or injectors. Please either PM me or contact me on my mobile on 0427091096 Im located in Ballarat, Vic (about 100km from Melbourne), let me know what you have, if you're willing to post im willing to pay. Cheers, Matt

Sorry if this is one of those faq's but im just trying to work out if the bonnet clearance issue still applys to the r33 when using the stock intake plenum. Thanks in advance, Matt

Really struggling to find a diffinative answer on this, many conflicting arguements etc. What happens if i were to use a manual ecu with a automatic r33? (rb25) Does the car not engauge gears? does it shift hard? does it lock itself in first? If so does anyone have any ideas what the wires connected between the ecu and the auto computer actually do? From what i can gather looking at the z32 wiring diagram they are Neutral sw Check engine light pin 5 ??? pin 14??? pin 15??? pin 40???