tricstar

Ring Ottomotto they are the local distributor and very helpfull, I've rung them a few times about OS-Giken stuff on my car when I bought it..

I think so, but looks identical to that one. no cracks or anything, just trouble mantaining a good seal between turbo and mani, Grant thinks due to stainless flange against cast mild?? , had them both faced a couple of times, tried every type of gasket. The permeflex ( or whatever its call ) 5 layer one thats on know seems to be holding up, but hasn't seen too many long track sessions yet.. next time it lets go, its a 6-boob steam pipe or similar.

just re-read my post... first line was meant to say ;; can't wait to get RID of my stainless mani in favour of mild steel ( but I think you got the point ) but yeah, no harm in trying

Is that stainless ?? can't wait to get my stainless mani in favour of mild steel.... might be alright if it doesn't get too hot. had heaps of issues with turbo to mani gaskets etc, and Grant at Per4manz turbos is pointing the finger at the stainless and turbo rear having different expansion rates...stainless is something like 10mm per 1m. you might not be putting as much heat as the TO4 at near on 2bar, so might not have any issues...just saying (-:

all in all a good weekend, but yeah a lot of waiting around Cosmo sounds sweet on boost.... yeah I f##ked a gear change in the second round and the Lime Green SLR5000 came flying past just before the line disappionting, but that R35 would have been a handfull anyway.. hopefully Brendan will edit some footage and post it up

yeah good work Martin !! all came together just in time, see you at Powercruise

if you don't have rattle gun and compressor, put a bolt in one of the bolt holes around the outside and brace with a large screw driver into teeth on outside of flywheel to stop it turning.. and a breaker bar, should get them.

I tried a Matic-D equivalent and wasn't impressed, but that was only after a hard track day.. make sure its bled properly.. but like Nismoid said the gauge only shows up what the computer is telling the hydraulics, not actually what your transfer is doing, so like Moodles pointed out its likely to be something else thats causing the computer to think it needs to feed more torque to the front .. don't know what else you've changed but to give you an example: I changed my TPS and unknowingly put the wrong one on, which had a couple of wires around the other way and was telling the computer that when I was siting there with no throttle that it was WOT so just taking off slowly or reversing out the driveway it would be max 4WD, took me a while to figure that out

basically its just squeezing an extra plate into the transfer, the transfer case is ( can't remember the exact number) about a 20 plate wet clutch system, and by shoe horning a plate or 2 extra in it obviously requires less pressure to lock up.. pretty sure all the parts ( including full set of new plates ) are about $600-$800 plus labour, so if you took the box out, I reckon around $1500.. that is my understanding from when I looked into it about a year ago, and actually pulled a transfer case apart,( still in pieces in the shed ) might have a crack at it one day..

Did you have a 4WD controller on your GTR, ? If the transfer is in good working order, a good controller will do the same thing as the modded transfer by applying more torque to the front and you can control how much, so no RWD waiting for the fronts to kick in.however, ultimately the modded transfer can apply more torque than a standard one..obviously..So basically I'd just install a good controller, take your pick of brand and functions, and down the track if the box has to come out or the transfer is worn do the mods.

I've just been thru all this and the R32/33/34 gtr systems are pretty much the same except for the computer, and it is the computer that sorts out the pre-load through the solenoid, aside from the "Fail safe" solenoid and the A-LSD. the systems are identical... therefore just like with the R32 GTR if the system is controlled and doesn't prime/pre-load they are all the same and in RWD. there are already a couple of threads on that..... also not all controllers are just piggy backed on the factory g-sensor, ie the "Full Race" one which for $500 has its own faster computer and digital G-sensor, so the only thing the facytory Attesa computer does is look after ABS. And for any GTR, 32/33/34 has RWD at the flick of a switch, with zero pressure at the transfer, but in auto mode has the R32 the same as R33/34 with pre/load so no delay in 4WD. so much hear/say, and so few actual know how the systems work..

I have used the Ruzic (Mountainrunner) controller and it was really good but if your main gaol is the ability to switch 2wd-Awd, then look at "Full Race"

where does everyone get there replacement rotors ? 356mm/32mm.. for K-Sport 8-pot, kit was hoping to get AP or something good, does anyone have all the info required, P.C.D. measurement,? etc

Yeah Gav did it with his 2.8L & E85, but at like 2bar. not a 2.6L on 21psi & 98 ?

are you saying someone nearly cracked 600rwhp with -5's at 21psi ??

you might want follow this thread also, some questions getting answered http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/164316-ets-pro-center-diff-torque-split-controller-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gt-r-9.html#post1672818

Hey Brad, do you know if the other end of that dumbell shaped solenoid is for priming the system on start up ? if so do I just leave that all in tact and it won't effect how the controller works? I've since decided to not hard wire it and wire up TPS, ground and power at the factory ETS-pro computer and just have the Full Race unit control the solenoid, so that way pump and pressure switch stay as is.. not sure if I'm the first to install one of these in anything other than an R32 but finding it hard to get some answers, like R33 ETS-pro computer pinout diagram. thanks for your help Brad

so after hours of searching with no results, I've resorted to a thread dig... Has anyone found the elusive ETS-Pro pinout diagram ?? PLEASE !!

no, this one ( Full Race ETS-Pro ) replaces the G-meter sensor and wires directly into the attessa solenoid Valve..?

I'm trying to wire up a 4wd contoller and the instructions say to connect to the attessa solenoid, which is circled in blue below, the instructions are for a R32 whereas this is a R33? the 32 has a single solenoid, piece of cake. but mine has that dumb bell shaped/double solenoid which has wires coming out of both sides in the middle? has anyone hard wired this solenoid and know which side to tap into? I'm leaning towards the one closest to the feed and pressure lines ( one with the sticker on ) ? anyone?

yeah the ETS-Pro.. I got rid of the A-LSD, great upgrade, and depending how you wire it up ( there are 2 options) it does completely replace the Attessa computer for 4WD control, except as pointed out above, not for ABS or A-LSD,. so I'm going to hard wire the ETS-Pro for the 4WD and leave the standard Attessa computer to do ABS. Will report how it compares to the Ruzic I just took out, which was great for the track, and the new GPS one looks even better. But I like the sound of the Full Race one, whereas the Ruzic is map based the Full Race has map based and manual, in manual you have complete control, from max 4WD to complete RWD, could be handy for tyre warming at the drags, dynoing, drifting, etc

another way to deal with this ( GTR in RWD ) is buy the "Full Race" 4WD controller, it has manual and auto modes, and in manual at the turn of a knob, all the way one way is max 4WD and the other way is complete 2WD=0 transfer case pressure.. also replaces the old Attessa computer and old G-Sensor, with much faster computer and better G-sensor, sounds perfect for track and strip... I got one coming (-; ps, doesn't matter if R32,R33 or R34, makes them exactly the same...

No it doesn't as said, the shaft bolts to the front diff end and has a splined shaft the slides into the transfercase which is sealed, so no oil come out..

yeah there'd want to be some noticeable up side to warrant the above trade-offs..

yeah thats awesome for a single...like it, good low and top end.. I'll have to disconnect the plumbback pipe one day and see what difference if makes? see what I'm missing. (Simon)