tricstar

Good work Matt But I would add, get the CAMS license, pretty sure Nolimits don't take the AASA, and if you want to do events like Macrae RallySprints etc some of them want 2x1kg or 1x2kg extinguishers so I'd just mount a 2kg and your ready for anything.. Good to see some interest on here

great writeup MrStabby, you definately deserve a few beers after that job

Yeah great writeup, having done that job the same way a few times, that will be very handy...

Have a crack at it. Download a how to from the DIY. I've done my 33 GTR (so heavier again) by myself on the floor of my shed a few times. And I'm no mechanic. Just get the car up as high as poss and I made a basic cradle for the box to sit on with a few pieces of wood and a couple of tech screws and bolted that to the jack. The DIY's explain the rest

oow that looks like a good one, I could be in on that

good time for that power and 1.6 isn't a bad 60 foot, but 129mph in 3rd ?

It is an amazing car, 2.4L, GT42 turbo, sequential dogbox, massive euro brake package, carbonfibre everything $$$$ the Zebra that is..

mate I just copied that from the "Lub Thread" , or also search in "the goods on oils" in General Maintenance..You must be able to download the full workshop manual from somewhere? anyone??

dodgey handheld gopro, but its the black one

Ok I found it, its a 4XR-5 , and I've followed all the program procedures and its still not playing ball, so I'm thinking its time to take it to someone who knows this stuff..

thats the remote, it must have gone into anti-hijack mod due to buttons being pushed while in my pocket. Its the only thing I can think of, nobody's been near it, no flat battery or disconnected, etc.... nothing changed, just happened, virtually over night.. As for the turbo timer, I agree with just drive it mellow before parking up, but I do find it handy on the odd occasion I need to leave it running and lock it, normally to let it warm up while I grad a coffee on the way to work also its a GTR with a 2.8L, TO4Z, 272 cams and idles like a top fueler, so defecting the timer is the least of my worries I've had a good look and can't even find the alarm to see what brand it is, so all you have to go on is the remote, how do I turn anti-hijack off ? cheers

If the box is in decent condition, don"t run the Shockproof, thats a bandaid if you've got sluggish syncros etc, If it is in decent condition use a normal 75-90 ..

just found this in the "Lubrications thread",, also spoke to my gearbox guy who builds these daily, and 2.5L would deffinately cause you issues...... For fluids the manual recommends Transfer case (page CH-59) - 1.8 litres of Nissanmatic fluid D [approx. 1.8 litres] Manual transmission (page CH-23) - Nissan gear oil MP-G special GL-4 #75-90 [approx 4.1 lites] Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre] Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres] I have no personal opion as to the products and quantities; but I thought I would provide reference to the manual to round out the discussion.

I hope Chris Rogers reads this, I've read heaps of other central locking problems and he seems to be the guru.......... OK Its a R33 GTR with a ? brand alarm etc.... central locking and everything has always worked fine, but in the last couple of days its started doing weird stuff: it locks and unlocks fine with remote but when I get in and start it, as soon as I turn the ignition the doors lock themselves, and when I turn it off they unlock then lock again, also I used to be able to turn ignition off but leave car running with turbo timer, get out and lock with remote, then when it timed out it would automatically alarm itself.. Now when I do that, when the timer times out and car turns off, it unlocks the doors I'm thinking loose/worn wire/connection, but where to start looking??

yeah last time I put Redline in ( not Shockproof ) cost me a fortune, they only had the 1 gallon bottles, had to buy 2

as Piggaz said above it is 4.1L but if you get 4L in, your doing well. or just drop the rear end of the car down a bit when filling, from memory I think the filler hole is toward the front so that should help..

WOW

thanks Matt well here is another very average video, but you'll get the idea

So does the GTS box take that much less than the GTR? I thought they were similar just without the Transfer case at the back. cause the GTR box takes 4L, some times when filling the box when its in the car I can't quite get 4L in but when ever its out I always get 4L in... when I've had sluggish syncros the shockproof has helped,

well from experience, having a ducted cooler in the wheel arch, has nowhere near the efficiency of one up front, how can it compare, one has maybe a 100mm duct and the other has full flow of air........ and like Boostn0199, with a decent radiator, my water temp doesn't move, a lot of the GTR guys at the track (in perth at least) run them up front. If high coolant temps rob power, what do you think high oil temps do?

the answer to both those questions will be answered by the good folk at NPC, just talk to them and tell them what you want.. but if you are going to be running 300kw surely you would get something rated a bit higher so your not right on the clutches limit? sprung or solid centre is not what determines pedal firmness

yeah well done to Will, but he'd be nowhere without you Bart got me by 10 seconds,. along with most of the Evos, but the one that continues to surprise me is the GT40 kit car, thing beat me by 4 seconds

well I think you pretty much have the same running gear as the R33GTR,, I'm sure someone else can confirm that?

haha yeah i'll be bringing a couple and tools, don't want to be responsible for someone elses new tool kit

Why wouldn't you mount in front of the rad. much shorter lines, much better air/flow, whats the down side?