tricstar

-4 braided line with 1mm restrictor. Jun pump, pressure at top of stock gauge when into it, and zero oil/turbo issues. Did track/strip road and 30k kms. Sounds like something isn't right with yours.

Yeah I'd say it's the small rear holding it back. I had .84 rear at 26psi making 450rkw.

no O-ring. Should just slide out and yes you do need to unbolt the slave to get the shaft out.

Going RWD turns off the Attessa pump so takes out the A-LSD also. Not sure what's going on with yours Hadouken but mine would always single peg with the above method, which makes sense.?

I have just read in your other thread that you were leaning towards the Fullrace ets, altho it's not manual, it does everything your asking for. You can have it set with a fixed split for launch then once under way just flick a switch and its rwd. You can also choose how much preload you want. Worth considering

Have read up on the "full race ETS-pro"

So did you not read Ryan1200's post a few up about exact same power, just different gearbox and 5mph difference?? So it does matter on set up etc and is not just all about what power you run. Your online calculator can't take differences like a dog vs normal H pattern into account. More to it than X power runs X mph

I was talking to a mate last night about how tunable the ETS - pro is and it reminded me of something. My gtr had an OS giken 2 way in the front and when I first installed the ETS-pro I had the same problem. So I down loaded the software and plugged the unit into my laptop and reduced the preload, problem solved. I'm surprised that wasn't your first suggestion Geoff? So I'd try that before pulling it all out.

Had a hyper tune intake with single throttle body. Replaced TPS but got wrong one. Was able to calibrate with motec but it was giving 5v at zero throttle and 0v WOT. When reversing it's the same as JH32 explained. But tight diff is logical. Especially the Nismo. I had 1.5 Nismo in the rear and was tight as f###

Or maybe the wires to the control knob are crossed. See what it does when turned all the way to the right. Sounds like it's getting a crossed signal somewhere and system is being told give full pressure.

JH32. Don't know how long you've had the unit in your car. But this does sound exactly like the symptoms I had when TPS wires were wrong way round. If it does it when ETS is in RWD then I'd say it's mechanical.

The transfer case can only work if the pump is applying pressure. And no the gauge does not work off a pressure sensor and as said only shows what torque the computer would like to send to the front.

Hey mate, what's in the oil cooler kit? Any pics?

It's been ages since I've done it so someone else can confirm. But it something like this: Unplug the attessa plug above your right leg ( sitting in drivers set ) the one used for bleeding attessa, Turn ignition on and within 10 seconds push the brake pedal at least 5 times, Awd light should flash continuously and you are Rwd. Attessa valve should open and not prime system. Like I said it been awhile so hopefully someone will confirm. But it will be the same deal if you have A-LSD, will take out the diff also as they both work off the same pump unit.

Yeah there are different ways to go about it. The Full Race ETS computer does it all and can stop the system from priming or open the valve and deprime on the fly and vice versa. Which is neat, no need to stop and reset. Basically gives u complete control. However if you still have the A-LSD, when you cut power to the attessa to give you Rwd, you will also be cutting power to the diff, give u a single pegger. I wouldn't worry about transfer damage. Myself and plenty of others have been running systems like this for years with no adverse affects. Even the Nissan manual explains how to put R33/34 into Rwd for dyno etc

Full Race ETS pro

Thanks Stabby. I have since sold the GTR with a new OS box and coppermix clutch. I did put a lot of the breakages down to brutal R3C OS clutch. Most breakages were on the shift or just after. And quite a few were towards the end of track work or sprints so I definately think a cooler would help. But this is all getting a bit off topic, so I still couldn't definitively rule out Cryo being an option with a nice sprung centre clutch.

Never broken anything on a launch. Mostly third, couple of seconds and snapped an input shaft clean off. The cryoed one just striped third like most of the others.

Yep. True story. Altho that clutch also saw off a couple OS gear sets too. I think someone needs to try it with a friendlier clutch, for a better test. But my gearbox guy cryo's high hp 4WD autos with really good results also. ?!?!

Oh yeah I was asking about R33 also.

do you have front bumper, and back bumper reo bars?

The "full race ETS pro" is stand alone with its own g sensor and everything needed to control attessa

Those dam evos on the tight rally sprints and state sprint circuits. Sequential with short ratios should help that Matt.

1 fuelab inline, fully adjustable will supply more than enough and not need to return 100+ litres per minute to the tank at idle.

Had this issue several times and in the end the only gasket that lasted for me was an Inconel gasket from summit racing or one of the US online shops. Just google Inconel gaskets