tricstar

come on give me something

I am about to upgrade the standard hard lines between the fuel system in the boot (Magnafuel- tunerpro 525 kit , which has a 74 micron pre=filter and a 25 micron after filter), and the dual entry fuel rail up front... it currently still has what looks like the standard filter just before the Y to feed each end of the rail.. Do I still need that filter or are the other 2 enough ?? also what size should I make the feed and return lines, wih enough flow to handle 800bhp, and maybe E85, down the track ? cheers for any help

smart man bubba a bit of video footage on there would be good also

yeah I've been promised spin in that Torana, can only imagine the neck snapping feel of that hocking up

yeah I had some smoke after installing new turbo and ceramic coated dump etc went away after a few heat cycles, I assumed it was just burning off shit from new turbo and new coatings.. another time needed to put a restrictor in the oil feed of the turbo, because with Jun pump was pumping too much oil and pushing past the seal, hence blowing white smoke.. hopefully just one of those reasons for you

form sent, looks like loads of fun, taking mates for laps, should be a blast, drags etc might get on the dyno for a tickle up before this one

have to agree Terry was great to me also, I rang him from perth after the recommendation from Ottomotto, when I was having trouble with an OS front diff, and he took time out on several occasions to help me out and I have never actually bought anything off him

had exactly the same thing, ruled out all the same things like you have, got inner wheel bearings ( or whatever they are called ) replaced, still same noise, ended up being brakes, seals where stuffed and piston wasn't releasing properly.. your seals are coming up to 20 years old could be worth a check?

yeah maybe it was 0w-40

ok don't know about the Magnatec, but in a stock motor, mobil1 5w40 would probably be fine, I'm sure a lot of people including Mr Stabby use it with no issues, it's just different oils for different applications

don't know where all this V8's rule the land and there's no replacement for displacement shit is coming from here?? cheap V8's running 10's?? My Bro's got a new malloo, so $75k, spent another $5k+ on OTR induction, tune, better exhaust etc etc, only ended up with 400rwhp from 6.2L down the drags best he could manage with or without launch-control was 12.9@180km's, in comparison I had an R33 GTR standard apart from highflow turbos and PFC =400rwhp ran 12flat@188km's turbo upgrade and a tune should take care of most V8's

good question ? catch was clean, never get any blowby in there, I'm assuming it just blow out the back, there did seem to be an abnormal amount of black shit on the bumper. anyway spoke the guy that built it ( Nisspeed in Adelaide, James ) and said it was too thin for my engine and he always used Nulon 15w50 especially if its going to get drive hard and see highish temps.. no such problem since I changed back to Nulon, doesn't hardly use any at all now.. I really looked into it when I changed to Mobil1 and I thought it was "the shit", but it comes down to what the engine is built to run.

yeah I agree oil analysis would be a good idea, however bearing in mind how close the oil temp sender is to the exhaust manifold ( to close for my liking ) I suspect it might not be a true reading ? ( surely thats not the case on a new performance car ) It doesn't go to the track anymore, they are just not built to be driven hard,

think my bro's ute went to Melville and Shacks, then with 15k km's on the clock smashed valves into pistons and then broke a cam shaft no warranty because he had OTR induction and tune anyway back to oil, I'm no oil expert, but for me even the 5w40 was too thin for my engine

I can't believe HSV's run 5w30, ( my bro's got a series2 malloo ) and that thing runs day in day out @ 110-130 degrees and at the track I've seen it 150+ and thats with a massive oil cooler and 8L of oil, what is the deal with those things?? which dealership do you work at, your probably seen it, or worked it, spent more time in the shop than on the road anyway, on the oil, I used 5w40 mobil1 in for a while, did a one day motorkana, at the end of the day had no oil left in the motor ( well just enough to run, didn't register on the dip stick ) just too thin.... now use Nulon 15w50 no such problems I'm sure I don't have the same clearances as a factory motor, but that was my experience.

not massive, "GAV" Beers 2.8L, -5's, E85, 620rwhp good boost in early 3k's rpm, But yeah, nothing on the R35 package around a track or motorkarna

All sorted for future reference : I pulled the face off and then unscrewed the tacho out of the dash, there is a calibration screw on the side of the tacho assembly, so I screwed the tacho back in to the dash, unscrewed the oil pressure gauge out of the dash so once the dash is plugged in I could still access the calibration screw, the rest is pretty simple, start car, turn screw to set tacho at known idle rpm, take dash back out and put it back together and your done now I can see how fast I'm going in 4th gear on the track of course

thanks Paul, I should have thought of that, google has all the answers I will try and check that out, finding those wires will be half the battle.. but the odd thing is the standard dash reads normal ?? Maybe the Nismo one is a bit more sensitive ??

I've got a brand new still in box Nismo dash that came with my car but not installed, When I fitted it the tacho is about 600-800 too high and there is no adjustment, any ideas what to do...? anyone have a 33 GTR and prepared to pull the dash out and check it on theirs ??

^^^ +1 what he said running OS triple with 400+rwkw, not the easiest or lightest but livable and handles lots of shit

thanks Guys

wanting to fill the guards but no guard rolling, will 18/10 +15offset and 275 or 285 fit, car is not particularly low???

http://www.e-monitor.com.au/ I've used these guys, give you a detailed explanation of whats wearing and are more than happy to talk to you about the results, if theres something you don't understand

good work, that looks like fun

yeh should be able to change a pull to push just like you can change push to pull, basically just mount the slave on the other side of the folk.. And there is no way it costs 4-5K to rebuild a gearbox well it shouldn't if you go the right place as mentioned in the replys above.