tricstar

bump what no one wants a nice shiny catch/can and washer bottle ??

yeah I'm not worried about the figure, it feels fast enough.. but 15% less is probably a bit much. I know all dynos read different but that is almost no loss from engine to hubs ? I've got to get it on a roller once and for all.. before the last tune it was 550rwhp on a roller then a week later 525awhp on the hub, so definately noticable when I picked it up at 710awhp hubs anyway thats all a bit offf topic

yeah there is only one way to find out, thats why it would be a grate event to go to.. the box has OS-giken 1-5 so I don't think it's much different to stock, 710awhp hub ( so around 650hp roller ? ) had a mates data box in the car one event recorded 0-100 in 3.4 seconds... gears are 1st = 85km/h, 2nd = 140, 3rd = 185, 4th = ?, 5th = ??, all at 8500rpm it'd have to be close.. hope I get to find out !! if I do, I'll let you know.

ok I'll stand corrected, will give that technique a try this weekend now I have a clutch I can trust, have welded a couple of clutches trying something similar in the past..

I'm in the same boat, OS box, TO4Z, big cams, 2.8L, 7000rpm+ bump or bog down, where as with previous GTR I owned standard with high-flows, launch @6000rpm and just hock up.. I don't think the long first of the OS help to get off the line? And yeah I saw that 0-1000 run, Still considering it and I'm in Perth, what are the thoughts, with standard ratios, OS box and around 800hp ( at the engine ) is 300km/h achievable ??

well my understanding was once you've been through that process all or most of the slack has been taken up, cogs meshed, diffs slack taken up etc, provided the car doesn't roll and you don't take it out of gear, then the drive train is loaded, ie most of the slack taken up.. this the process that was explained to me, correct me if I'm wrong, I can't see the difference between the two discriptions, I seriously doubt Duncan is sitting on the line with the handbrake on slipping the clutch holding 6000rpm+

wish could speak japanese, wow one of those GTR's really laid some rubber , 0-300km in 16 seconds I'd love to try that ( the 0-300, not that I think I'd do it in 16 seconds )

this is the stance of the car with these springs, Lovell or Pedders, can't remember

I'had one on my last car and it took 7-8L, it is for a 4wd GTR sump

mate if you pay $400 I'll cover the freight.. I have a receipt here for $600 from high Octane, I have to say tho that it has a weld inside, which it had from High octane they said it was to fix an imperfection from the casting, they leak tested it and it's good. nothing is visible on the outside. you can see it in this pic, top left

at the moment they have some spent semi's

located in perth, but I have access to very reasonable freight charges, for interstate buyers

also have some knock sensors, near new were used for about 6 months, I bought them off Femno on here about a year ago and never used them $300 ono

time to clean out some bits, so fire away R33 Brembos Fronts, rotors machined and new Project Mu B-Spec pads 2000kms ago, calipers in good condition, some paint and clear coat wear, but all seals-dust covers are in perfect condition, plenty of meat on rotors $1200 ono Catch/Can /washer/bottle polished ali custom made to replace standard washer bottle in R33 GTR $400 ono RB26 sump extension bought from High Octane, paid $600 cast aluminium, swing gate baffle setup $400 ono also plate aluminuim sump extension, simliiar to the above one, no baffle $100 1997 R33 GTR standard computer with flashed mines tune, with mines product tag, ran standard everything except high flowed standard turbos, and intercooler 18psi 400rwhp $100 R33 GTR firm lower springs basically new, came off car I bought, to put on coil overs, were only just put on prior to sale, cost $800 sell $400 set of R33 GTR wheels painted matt black, few scratchs, were my track rims, have done brake upgrade so they don't fit now, $600 ono

the adjustment is the threaded pin at the top-back of clutch peddle, winds in and out to move the pick up point of the clutch ( alters how much hydralic throw the slave has.)

I've just put on some K-sport 8 pot 356mm 32mm on the front will be testing at the track this weekend, but they feel great and are quite a bit bigger than the Brembos that came off ( which I will sell SiR RB , pm me ) good up grade for around $2400rrp but I think there might be a Group buy in the pipe line, keep an eye out ..

one of my favourites shit tyres, a bit to much wheel spin.

yeah anywhere between 6500--limiter, the handbrake is just to load up the drivetrain before you launch.. on the line put on handbrake in 1st gear, let clutch out a little so it pushes against the handbrake, then clutch back in, handbrake off, don't let car roll back and drivetrain is loaded..right foot down and step off clutch..hang on..

the second pic is the way to go so the oil goes through the filter no matter what, I have the Mocal themostat ( not installed yet ) it should work fine, while cold and thick the oil takes the path of least resistence and returns straight from the filter ( in diagram 2 ) when the oil gets to a certain temp that path is slightly blocked and the oil goes through the cooler then back to the motor..

looks similar to the one I got from supa cheap or somewhere, weighs a freakn ton, I'd be looking for an aluminium one next time !! I see even the snap-on one says it's 51kg !! friends got an ultra low ali one that wouldn't weigh more than 10-15kgs don't know where he got it from but said its like the one they use for the V8 supercars $$? so maybe look in the V8 supercars mag..?

yep by the looks of the OP's sig he's got a big single, I'm the same, launch any lower than 7krpm and it just bogs down. get it right and ------

it wont affect the attessa but you will have to bleed it after you re-install the box. pretty sure its 12mm for the starter motor bolts, get a short ratchet ring spanner, there is a pretty comprehensive write up in the members tutorials which should help, I made up a little cradle that mounted on my floor jack to support the box while you lower it and slid it back, saves wrestling with 80kgs of awkardness whilst on your back.. tip 1 : disconnect battery first ( basic I know ) then get inside car while still clean and remove shifter.. 2 disconnect intercooler piping to allow engine to tilt back, when you get the stage of removing gearbox crossmember, use the trolley jack to support the back of the gearbox and lower it slowly so it doesn't just drop. you'll be surprised how much it tilts down.. I think the rest is pretty well covered, just take your time, first time is always a bit daunting. good luck

standard box should be fine, just do what Duncan said and pre-load the drive train,