tricstar

your unlikely to break 1st gear, but stuff will wear out, clutches, syncros, transfer case etc, being a 32, are you launching 4wd ? I would've launched 1st in my last R33 GTR up around a couple hundred times in a few years with no gearbox issues, just a few clutches.. however did smash the gearbox dropping 2nd while rolling.. anyway just go for it, you probably spend more on clutches than gearboxes

yeah I'm keen to get down there again before they shut up shop for winter, 18th lets get some numbers

just found out.. the tirerack didn't include the Quarantine Declaration, so the extra charge applied for some inspection or some shit.. Just make sure they attach or send you the Declaration, or you'll get stung!

I see no one else has mentioned quarantine, I order a set of michelins $1100 plus $290 frieght ( so yeah $190 for GTS and Duty,) to perth, and then another $140 quarantine charges WTF, I'm trying to find out now what that is all about, as nobody else has mentioned it ?

before I take my car to a brake shop I thought I might see if anyone has an idea whats going on? Car is an R33 GTR 1995 I've had it for over a year, done quite a few events and have never been able to lock up the tyres under braking, when I push down hard on the peddle it goes down until it hits something that feels like a stopper ( not right to the floor), doesn't matter how hard I push, it does pull up the car but sometimes not quick enough. they were standard Brembos, with good rotors and quality pads ( tried a couple of different ones ) , I have just changed the fronts to K-Sport 356mm rotors with 8 spot calipers and it still has that same peddle feel?? I'm thinking it might be ABS related ? any ideas ??

<br /><br /><br />that sounds about right, is a few hundred RPM in front of my RB28, but mine goes on to make 710awhp ( hub dyno ) Garrett TO4Z .86 rear, no name exhaust manifold, lots of head porting and 272's

<br /><br /><br />\ok thanks

<br /><br /><br />what you helped build Allan's (SLY33) 28, which is now mine, has some detonation on #6 so engine has to come, so looking at the 26/30 option and sell the 28 bottom end- needing new pistons... anyway how did you go getting yours in, or if you have a different plenum, is it not a problem?

<br /><br /><br />what clutch did you run with that M/C, affect it at all ? mines OSGiken triple so pretty heavy, will the Terrano handle that....

try this pic ??

does that look like the clutch master cylinder at the back of the intake manifold, only about 10mm away,

Its on the fire wall right at the back of the intake beside the brake master, 1995 GTR, I assume its the clutch master, could be wrong, but what else could it be, seems to be the same problem others have had, ill see if I can upload a pic

ok I've found an answer to my original question but now have a couple more : so people that have had this problem ( albeit in s13's and R32"s )have used R33 GTS clutch master cylinders, my car is an R33 GTR so is the GTS one shorter and will it be ok for an OSgiken triple plate ??

just looking in and around the engine to see what will be affected if I go down the 26/30 road, if the head raises 28mm ( I've been told ) most stuff looks fine, I think my dump will be alright but the hypertune intake plenum will foul on the clutch master cylinder, I'm sure I'm not the first to come across this, so is there an adaptor or something for the clutch cylinder to move it 20mm ??? what have others done ??

so what actually does it have, obviously no pistons and rods, what about crank etc, or is it just a bare block and 4WD plate ?

yeah I've pulled out of buying this, was told those internals won't handle 800hp, entry level forgies etc, having a good look at RIPS, the guru's of the 26/30

yeah I already have the Jun pump on my current motor, thats why Jun, so is nothing that needs to be welded up, blocked off etc, I would and will spend the hours sifting through the threads on here but I'm going to check it out this morning .

Hi guys, I'm looking at buy this already assembled bottom end, are there any special mods, to oil gallerys etc that would be easily visible, that should have been done to suit a 25 or 26 head ?? I may change the oil pump to a Jun, apart from that, does that list of parts look ok, it was built and assembled for a drift car, I am looking to put around 800hp through it ?? Block was crack tested, decked, bored & honed Acid tank parts Polished crank Chamfer oil holes Balanced engine Fit aluminium plugs Fit rods to pistons N1 oil pump & crank collar Oil pump sleeve machined & fitted ACL race series forged pistons ARD forged rods ACL bearings ARP main studs

by south perth do you esperence?? mid/high 20's in summer ?? we've just had the first couple of days below mid/high 30's, if not 40's in months ,, I went to the drags a few weeks ago and at 7pm it was 32 degrees with a track temp of 45..?

yeah we have a Star Track Express account at work, but I think Simon at Comp. Gearboxes freights a few boxes around and therefore can get a good rate? worth asking whatever shop you are looking at using, they can normally get it cheaper than you..

unfortunately your in perth so you'll pay through the nose.. cost me $1100 here just to get a box inspected, rang 3 other workshops here and they thought that was about right now I pay the $100 each way and send them to Competition Gearboxes, Croydon Vic.. Simon top guy to deal with. I had quite a bit of work done and sent him a few boxes. but from memory I think he said about $800 for syncros, bearings etc ring around locally and then give him a call, Simon--(03)97233380

whats up with the last RB26 dyno post -5's @ 18psi and only 270rwkw ?? sure its pretty much a standard engine, but I had standard engine & standard turbos high flowed making exactly the same power at the same boost ?? theres quite a few others on there @18-19psi making around the 360rwkw mark ? doesn't look right

I always thought it was the harmonics that cracked the blocks, if its from big launches I can't believe this one hasn't cracked yet... bit of both sounds like a good option, if I go the 26/30 i have to have the plate anyway and I don't surpose the grout would be a huge amount more. as for climate and fuel, just bp98 and in perth, so does get bloody hot, like at the moment, so does that mean you wouldn't fill it so high, with the grout?

well I only have limiter set at 8500rpm anyway, and the 26/30 should do that, yeah

alright a little off topic but while I have the brains trust reading this, I would welcome your opinions; due to some piston damage in my RB28 I have to replace pistons, and probably bearings etc etc along with possible bore and block strengthening. So I'm in the position where it is going to cost about the same to rebuild the 28 as it is to buy a forged RB30 bottomend from someone like proengines, then I could even be less out of pocket if I sold the 28 crank etc thoughts, what would you do ??